Oil to rockers

Started by Phil C, 06 Apr, 2020, 12:41

Previous topic - Next topic

Phil C

Hi Julian, Yes, but I guess within reason. Of course I could buy a little canister flame gun and anneal as necessary whilst being careful not to melt the solder.

chaz

Quote from: Phil C on 08 Apr, 2020, 16:12
Yes, W.  Can't see any for sale.

sorry for confusing W with U but was on nightshift using the phone to check internet.
the copper pipe is around 4 or 5 inches long, enough to go to the top, on my Triumph I used a hot air gun rather than a flame to help bend so did not discolour copper. the new B40 pipe is chrome/nickle plated and long enough to get to oil pipes , the Triumph is around the same length and cant decide if it looks tidy enough with various bends or a sweeping flexible pipe like the a10 looks better, only using 3" of hose to join pipe to feed but can still see if oil flowing.

Phil C

So an ordinary hot air gun ( blow type, like for paint stripping) will get copper hot enough to anneal it? When I worked in a workshop, many years ago, if we needed to anneal a piece of copper we heated it to dull red. Will a hot air gun do that?   Phil

JulianS

Phil   

A new pipe should bend without annealing, they are made to be shaped to fit the bike.

The original solder is really hard and will not melt easily.

chaz

my hot air gun is an industrial one and does paint stripping or heatshrink , you could always use the heat from your hands to help bend, its not serious heat just helping to get smooth bends.

Phil C

I think I must be lonely. Otherwise, why would I be posting this? Well, my wife is very patient and well-meaning, and tries to look interested, but struggles not to glaze over a bit when I talk about my motorcycling things. I can see it in her eyes.

Anyway, whilst this conversation (post? thread?) began as "Oil to rockers" it expanded to include my headsteady nut and bolt.  You might remember the tank seam appeared to have been modified slightly by someone at some stage in order to make way for the headsteady nut and bolt (see pic.)I've now taken the nut and bolt off off, shortened and cleaned up the nut, and refitted it the other way round, ie with the bolt head outermost rather than the nut. It looks as though there will now be more room for the tank seam when the tank goes back on (fingers crossed.) But anyway, I was curious that  -  stop yawning at the back there! - the valve lifter cable mechanism is so close to the headsteady nut and bolt, to the extent that I think it maybe bumps into it slightly before the valve lifter lever has made the full extent of is travel. I'm not concerned about it, because a) it makes almost all it's travel at least, and b) I don't use it. So why, I hear you ask, am I blabbering on about it? Well, just interested to know whether it's a normal set up really.

Hope you are all well.         Phil.

Phil C

By the way, correction: obviously I meant shortened and cleaned up the bolt, not the nut.  Cracking up here - must be the lockdown.

Phil

Phil C

I was just re-reading this and thought maybe I should just clarify that in my post before last, the bit about being lonely etc, I was of course just joking!  (Wouldn't want anyone sending Social Services round!)