Oil to rockers

[Phil C]

I drained my engine oil (1965 B40F) just to check there weren't any shiny bits in the  sump which might indicate problems (there weren't, it was all nice and clean - hurray!) I've now poured about 1/4 pint ,of oil into the engine to prime the sump, and refilled the oil tank. Before I start the bike, I usually kick the engine over a few times with the ignition off whilst watching for oil to appear from the spout in the oil tank, so that when I start the bike there is already oil around the engine. I think I once read somewhere that it's also a good idea at that point to put a finger over the spout, and continue to kick it over a few times, to make sure oil is also going to the rockers, before starting the bike. Is that true? I wouldn't know it was getting to the rockers of course. Is it worthwhile?  Phil

[Bess]

Hi Phil,
          I did read somewhere (BSA service sheet I think), if your bike isn't used regularly after starting put your finger over the spout in the oil tank to speedily encourage oil to the rockers. I do it if I haven't used the bike for longer than a week, not only do the rockers speedily get lubed also the cam followers as well.

Bets wishes...

[DAVE BRADY]

If you have see through or translucent rocker feed pipe you can see where the oil is in the pipe and just kicking the engine over will send the oil up to rockers so it there even before starting.

Dave.

[Phil C]

So if you start the bike and put your finger over the spout: for how long?

[Phil C]

I'm guessing 5 - 10 seconds?

[chaz]

If you have see through or translucent rocker feed pipe you can see where the oil is in the pipe and just kicking the engine over will send the oil up to rockers so it there even before starting.

Dave.

My three, 2 bsa and 1 triumph all have clear parts to the rocker feed, when servicing you can see if its pumping ok.

[Bess]

Hi Phil,
           I release a short while after feeling pressure build up.

Best wishes...

[Pete C]

About 5 seconds with the engine running or some 20 kicks if not. Based on my B31 and loosening the rocker feed at the cylinder head to see when oil reaches that far.

cheers
Pete

[Csx355]

On my B44 which I rebuilt, the oil feed to the rockers is taken from the return side of the oil pipe union on the bottom of the motor. I was advised that some back pressure on the return system side would benefit the feed to the rockers, so I fitted a spin on canister oil filter which does this and along with clear braided oil pipes. I can see the flow which is strong and steady. And very reassuring.

On my B40 motor - which has just been totally rebuilt by Rupert Ratio - oh yes :-) I have also fitted the same canister spin on oil filter unit however this will not affect the back pressure to the rockers as it is upstream of the rocker feed take off which is on the tank. So I prep/prime the line with my finger over the return spout outlet in the oil tank for a few seconds after starting. To be honest you can't do much more as the oil pressure is significant. Thanks Dave!

What is noticeable is that the oil line on the B44 always remains charged with oil whereas the B40 does drop back a bit so I'm guessing that the canister oil filters have a non-return valve in them. I know that the clear oil lines are not original and possibly not to everyones taste but they do give a very easy and instant check that there is oil (and fuel) where it needs to be.

[Phil C]

Seems to me that the clear lines are a good idea in that they  give peace of mind. Which part of the line is clear? I mean, obviously the forked bit going into the rockers, but how far back from that does the clear bit go and how is it attached. Mine is copper tube, which, by the way, is a bit worse for wear in that it has a number of gouges in it, although it's not leaking. Thanks. Phil

[chaz]

on the Triumph and A10 Ive run the fixing ends down on a gentle curve to the place where it normally joins the return pipe tee connection, then cut a bit shorter  unless its got a rubber connector pipe, then swap the rubber for clear tube.

[DAVE BRADY]

Phil,

I have never liked the idea of a rigid although soft pipe running from the tee off from the return to the rocker box and as soon as any kinks, or rubbed areas appeared I replaced with a piece of small bore oil pipe, usually clear.  I would allow plenty of the original pipe at each end to push the tube onto.  Very small clips can be used but if the tube is a tight fit and can be pushed on a few inches you may not need any and if you allow a bit of extra length the run can be made much neater and the tube fastened if needed.  It is so much easier when working on the top end/rocker box if the oil banjos can be got out of the way without having to bend the copper pipe as well as seeing the oil getting up to the rockers.  With the tank off I could hook the banjos over the frame top tube - less oil would drip out and well out of the way.

Dave.

[chaz]

following on from Dave, agreed about the soft pipe for the rocker feed. I had a customers RE Continental where the previous owner had done the connection up too tight at the casing, there was a twist in the pipe restricting the oil flow,you need a decent grade clear plastic pipe though, maybe silicon grade as the heat may collapse a soft pipe.

[DAVE BRADY]

Yes, the pipe must be a fuel/oil grade pipe.  Most motor factors carry a range of sizes for fuel feed, oil feed, fuel injectors etc.
Try and get pipe with a BS number on it.

Dave. 

[Phil C]

Thanks very much.  Hmmm... options.  Here (attached pics) is my current set-up. You will see on the first photo (towards the top of the photo) that the copper rocker feed pipe comes vertically up out of a short (about 2 inch) stub of rubber pipe which is a push fit  onto the return pipe near the junction, just inboard of the oil tank.  The copper pipe then goes under the petrol tank and across to the rocker cover (other photo) (notice the person who did the job had some spare soft solder to use up.)

As I see it, OPTION 1, cutting the existing copper pipe, near the rocker cover, and then fitting a clear tube, would not be any good, because the clear tube would be out of sight. So I guess not very good.
OPTION 2: I guess I could start from scratch, making up a new copper pipe with banjos (would mean buying soldering kit), taking a different route away from the rocker cover, and fitting a visible clear tube to it.
OPTION 3: I could just buy a new ready-made rocker feed pipe, complete, and fit it. No clear tube.
OPTION 4: I could just keep it as it is, and trust the feed to the rockers would be okay, and that the gouges in the pipe wouldn't start to leak. Again, no clear tube.
Any thoughts on those options please? (I've discussed the gouges here in the past, and used a bit of Araldite on the worst.)
Also, what would stop the oil feed to the rockers if the oil return was reaching the oil tank?       Phil.