1972 B50 SS - getting closer to restart, but need help on lot of little things

[ReturntoFlight]

rhyatt,

Correct re the filter ... it is sized as a fuel filter.  Couldn't find much info on best size filtration - this one is suppose fly 30 micron.  But its overall size is appropriate.

Could I replace the integral filter material with a homemade mesh filter basket from bronze screen?

[rhyatt]

I believe paper filtration is best, but a gauze may be more convenient.
B3ar in mind the existing bsa filter is , I think , gauze.

[ReturntoFlight]

Right - the frame tube filter is mesh (gauze) as is the sump strainer.

From looking at the filter advert, do ya think I could squeeze bronze mesh into a cone ... would it retain sufficiently?

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

From your post it looks like you are considering putting a small fuel filter or other restriction in, what is for all intents and purposes, a gravity oil feed from the frame/tank to the engine. Unless specifically for fitting in a gravity fed system this filter will restrict the flow of oil.  Any filter in the feed side would need to be either big enough or porous enough to have no restriction on the oil getting to the engine.  Tread carefully with this idea.

Dave.

[rhyatt]

Personally , as already mentioned , I'd be just leaving it as original.
BSA knew what they were doing.
Also , we will look after our bikes much more these days than ever before.

[ReturntoFlight]

Agree certainly re how much more often we change oil, etc - and, that oil is far superior.

The slight modification of pulling oil from both ends of the frame, seems reasonable, and simplifies some of the plumbing - I just received the "T" fitting and it seems to actually be 5/16" ... won't have to make the 90 degree turn 😎

So, IF you were going to install the filter, would you install on the return line to the from, or the feed from the rear frame swamp? 

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

On the return. Army B40s had a filter on the return.
We have three BSA twins with filters on the return and they have covered many thousands of miles. They have been run on full detergent 20/50 and have a magnetic plug in the sump plate.

Dave.

[ReturntoFlight]

OK - thanks!

What are your thoughts, Dave, on the filter I have - would the 30 micron filter be OK to leave as is, or should I look for another filter?  This one is a great size , color, and is easy to clean ... but if it won't work .., it won't work.

[DAVE BRADY]

Good morning,

I would not use that filter anywhere in the oil system.  I would say that it is too small and if it presents a restriction it could cause oil to build up in the sump.
The filter I am currently using is a Wix WL7101, most manufacturers make on to the same spec.  I am not sure what the micron spec. is but it is what is used on several motorcycles.
I think that HD and Norton use this as do the various after market kits.
It is also the spec. for the Citroen RCV air cooled engine.
Google 'oil filter kit for BSA' and quite few come up.
The WD B40 filter is more compact and obviously met military spec. but they not too easy to find.

Dave.

[ReturntoFlight]

So, looks like I'll give up on this filter solution.

I was looking only to strain as much as the gauze does in the front frame, or the sump gauze does.

The bike will get little usage when complete, and assuming it is consistently rideable, there will be a lot of oil changes, especially in the early days.

[ReturntoFlight]

OK - so, skipped filter and now attempting to add feed from the after portion of the frame using a T ...

While the T allows a straight in for the front frame feed, there is so little clearance anywhere.  The feed line to the engine, when in the normal position looks like the photos ... I think I can make it work - but this requires bending the back edge of the bash plate so that I can get the plate into position.

I tried to reposition the engine feed fitting to face more upwards, but it won't rotate that far - rather than looking like the parts book, it appears to be a flare end of some sort that has a outside thread into the engine.  It looks stock.

The feed from the back of the frame seems to clear the exhaust pipe sufficiently.

As it is I will need to wire tie (I have velcro temporary ties on it in the photo) to hold it hard against the frame - and, like I said the after edge of the bash plate hits the hose just enough to preclude the keepers on the plate to slip over the bolts - so bending it in that area would likely work.  I just don't like the look of it all.

Would appreciate some stick and rudder!

[ReturntoFlight]

So, still seeking assistance - last post was re installing feed oil T under the frame.

I have seen photo of one other with T, but it was with what I think is an extended oil line from feed pipe pushed up between the timing case side and the frame - so, it looks pretty much the same but on top of the frame, vs under.  I don't like the look of either.

In a perfect world, I would decrease the radius on the feed pipe and build a copper line feed, with a brazed T that would solve the clearance issue, maybe even allowing some bending to simply fit better below the engine, with the pipe running forward about 8" long turning up a bit, and the pipe running aft turning up more.

Here's a fellow setting up some copper lines - something like this level of work, but with a T?

[ReturntoFlight]

OK - so just moved the T to above the frame - still don't like it as the oil hose just has a lot of tension on it between the oil feed into the engine and the T ... also the hose, T and clamps lay against the frame and lower timing cover.  Maybe different style clamps would be helpful.  If I used spring clamps would there be tension enough on the hose to feed pipe (no barbs)?

Would be interesting if the feed pipe could be bent in position - looks like need to pull engine to remove the pipe, right?

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Is there room to accommodate a 'Y' rather than a 'T'?
If it was large enough to slide over the engine oil union it could be made a bit shorter and perhaps soldered on.  The oil feed pipe would still be able to be pushed on.
From what I can see this could allow the pipe to be behind the frame and the 'Y' may be better for oil flow.

Dave.

[ReturntoFlight]

Hi Dave,

A Y like that might be more difficult - the oil pipe itself sweeps with a large radius, then has a extended tube for the oil line - combined with any standard fitting, there just isn't much room to fit anything.  And, it looks like the feed pipe cannot be removed to be modified with at least partially pulling the engine.


If the inlet pipe could be bent upwards and the tube shortened, perhaps a shortened T fitting, maybe bent up on one end ... sheesh ... better would include fab of a smaller diameter T with bendable line stubs to get the connections to hoses out from under the engine.  Something out of copper brazed to copper/bronze fitting?