A65 Lightning project......

[geraldhattrick75]

Funny you should say that Julian

, I started her up today and let her warm up... and noticed that the rev counter was now reading 2500rpm - ish.

So maybe it's oil on the drag cup (if it has one) or something...... I don't care as long as it sorts itself out.... eventually.

Thanks for the info mate.

Regards,
Dave.

[Guitarzanbikes]

Sent you a PM Dave... all I can say is... she's still up to her old tricks then... nothing changes, you gotta love the old gel!

[geraldhattrick75]

Apologies for coming a bit late to this thread but I would like to offer a bit of personal experience I have had with a VM32 Mikuni I run on one of my bikes.

This carb was originally bought from Allen's and came with their standard jet set up for the bike which proved not to be that good. In particular, the main jet fitted was too large which had a detrimental effect on performance and like many other owners it was found to need a 10 smaller jet.

For owners of classic bikes running AMAL carbs, the cold starting device on the Mikuni can take some getting use to with a lot of owners using it in the same way as an AMAL choke. It is not a choke but an enrichment device which is either on or off!

I'm not sure whether the A65 will behave the same but, on my other bike, the thing you have to learn early on is that with the 'choke' on, after about 3 kicks, the engine will become flooded and will not start no matter how hard you kick it. At that point, the only way forward is to switch off the fuel and ignition and then kick over the bike 6 or so times to clear the flooding which, on my other bike, is made easier using the decompressor.

The Mikuni is a good carb for performance especially compared with an AMAL but is a bit thirsty in comparison. If the carb is operating correctly and the enricher is working properly, I would expect you to see wet plugs after you kick it over at the very least.

In my typical 'now you see me, now you don't' manner (these bedrooms won't decorate themselves... apparently), I have re-appeared to ask more questions... (it also helps that my leg is feeling more upto kicking her into life again...)

Do you happen to know the correct size for the mikuni pilot and main jets please Spaceman? (anyone?)

I could look at them on mine, before buying some, but am not confident that the ones fitted are necessarily the correct sizes.

Many thanks,

Dave.

[geraldhattrick75]

Er, another thought just occured to me with regards my fitting an anti- wet sump valve some time hence.... is it ok to leave the ball and spring (01 4675 & 68 0353) fitted?

Thanks,
Dave.

[geraldhattrick75]

ust to wrap this project up, the project is now finished. I have fitted a twin carb head - with the appropriate Amal carbs and she now starts much easier and doesn't require me to carry a chimney sweep around (to clean the carbs every 1 1/2 miles.....).

It hasn't been an easy project, but it would have been impossible without all your help, so again... thanks you all very, very much.

Some piccies:

[Allan G]

Very nice bike!

A couple of questions rather than criticisms.

The link bracket that replaces the standard brake lever should be bolt upright, the original factory setup  had a stop plate which mounted off the LHS foot peg bolt. Though on mine, I have used the pillar which holds the brake light switch and continued to use that to set the stop point.

You find if the lever is too far back you will be loosing brake efficiency. Also if the short rod is 1/4" diameter you will find it will bend under braking, it's lack of efficiency was part of the reason I came off a few years ago as I ended up relying too much on the front brake in adverse conditions. I changed the short rod to 5/16" and it now doesn't bend and I could even lock the rear brake if I wanted to.

The other one is the blueing of the exhaust where the two pipes meet. These pattern pipes are poorly finished and I found the hole for the adjoining pipe was a small slot on a set I bought, you want to get a grinding bit on a Dremel and cut it away to it flows better into the other pipe. I think this is why you have bluing here. This or your timing is way out... but I don't think that will be the issue. Original pipes came together then slowly merged, the weld joining the two pipes was a long one. The flow is much better and the difference in how the bike performs is noticeable.

Glad it's running nice for you, hope you enjoy many many miles.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for that Allan.
Now that you mention it it doesn't look to have either the 'link bracket' or drum brake 'actuating lever' at 90 degrees to anything..... Will look at that.
The short lever is indeed 5/8 so that ought to be ok.

Re the 'many, many miles'- fraid its got to go as I need money for doing our bathroom... (I only fitted the bathroom 35 years ago and SWMBO now says its about time to change it.... Wimmin eh?) So it's presently in the 'For Sale' section of the club.....

Thanks again for the brake info Allan, I'll set in on it  right away.

Dave.

[geraldhattrick75]

Er, anuvver can of worms...

I've extended the link tie rod thingie so that the front lever sits more upright with the brake pedal in it proper position... So that's more or less ok.

Now to the brake drum lever, I moved it to a more vertical position- only to find that it now catches on the wheel spindle nut..... (see piccies)

Options now are: return that brake drum lever to it's original position or, bend the brake drum lever away from the plate to allow clearance from the spindle nut.... (obviously a fair degree of heat will be required...)

I think I've assembled the rear wheel correctly, but wouldn't be shocked if something was amiss in that area...

So from examining the images Allan, can you see anything wrong with my set up please?

[Allan G]

Your rod length looks to be fine with the lever at the 5 o clock position. It should pull to centre when applied. You may also find that when you fit the adjuster nut it will pull the lever a bit closer anyway.

[geraldhattrick75]

That'll do for me Allan...

All tidied up to the best I can get it... Sadly, I now need to replace the brake light switch, wot I broke with a touch of overenthusiasm when pressing down on the brake pedal.... (Oops!)

Cables all now tidied using John Bull type ties.....


Thanks again for your help....

[Allan G]

Your very welcome, again such a shame for you to be moving it on, I hope you get some fun from it before you do.

[geraldhattrick75]

Time will tell Allan- but highly unlikely to get many miles in....

If I may ask you, how do you go about starting the engine- in regards to not knocking the gear lever on the kickstart downswing?

I have to kickstart it with my right foot pointing outwards... and my hand hovering over the clutch...

Dave.

[Allan G]

It's never been a problem to be honest, the gear lever is cranked or should be to wrap around the lever, so it might just need a little bit more clearance making between that and the kickstart lever?

[geraldhattrick75]

Do the pictures look the same as your set up Allan? (Scuse the socks, I couldn't show you my oversized Moccasin jobbies,,, SWMBO bought em for Christmas...)

Hopefully it shows why I have to skew my foot in order to miss t'gear lever.

[Allan G]

Looks a little close to the lever. But I will check mine later.

Other thing I do is ensure I use the ball of my foot to start and not the arch of my foot. This can cause you to tap it in gear if your using your arch.