New forum member seeking information

[NTJosh]

Hello lad's,

Just chasing a bit of info as I'm new to BSA's. I've just put a deposit down on a BSA which I will be picking up early in the new year. The bike has a WM frame in the 45,000's (I believe that places it 41/42). Unfortunately it doesn't still have the original side valve, this has been replaced with an OHV 500 from 1950, believe the gearbox has also been changed out to a newer, "Heavy weight" unit..is this correct?
The bike has not been started in approx 6yrs (Engine had been rebuilt approx 2,000km prior) however turns over freely and has great compression, and mag is producing a good strong spark. I've no plan to fully restore the bike however I plan to go right over it to ensure that everything is working as it should, then get it registered and enjoy riding it.
Other than the obvious things such as bearings, brakes, cables, oil changes, greasing, electrics etc is there anything specific to the BSA and the 500OHV engine and gearbox that I should be checking.
A good operating oil pump is always of importance to me, how are the rotary gear pumps in the BSA's, should I be pulling it out and inspecting it? Obviously will be cleaning screens. Do the BSA's have the ball bearing and spring not return valves in oil circuit?

If anyone has any tips or info they could pass on it would be greatly appreciated.

Few pics below of the bike, looking forward to adding it to my 1948 Ariel NG350 that I'm currently restoring.

Cheers

Josh

[NTJosh]

Having trouble posting more then one photo..

[NTJosh]

Last one....

[neil1964]

Although I am a relative newcomer to this forum but I will say welcome.
I really like the look of your bike (prewar cosmetics but a good engine, need better pics of engine gearbox when you have it?
The things I would do are:
1) Drop 10mls of Redex down the spark plug hole and leave for a couple of days whilst I do the rest of the jobs
2) remove the oil tank filter and clean it.  I'd be tempted to remove the oil tank and give it a really good swirl and maybe bottle brush with paraffin in the nooks and crannies.  As you say remove the sump plate and screen, clean inspect.  Oil pumps on these do not have to provide high pressure more flow.  The bearings are lubricated by splash of clean oil.  Wet sumping when they have been left standing is common and does not mean a duff pump.  If it has wet sumped you may find excessive oil in the primary chaincase which only needs a small amount of oil, enough to cover the lower run of the chain and not drown the clutch plates.  If you are heavy handed with the pump the body can get distorted.  I'd probably leave in situ. for now (YMMV).
Same goes for the gearbox, I'd drain oil out and see what it is like and of course replace with good quality ofc correct grade for your climate.
New plug of correct grade (not R type), plain solid copper wire HT lead and non-suppressed plug cap.
I'd check tappets cold (if it is a B31/3 then 3 thou)  Set points at 12 thou and plug gap at 18 thou.
Give the petrol tank a good flush out (best off the bike) and flush the carb out too (you may need to clean it out with proper carb cleaner but try a basic drain and flush first).  Check that the petrol pipes are in good order and ideally Ethanol proof.  The petrol taps, if push type may have dried cork, brass lever types are ok.
Obviously lube all the cables, check the wheel and headstock bearings - you get the drift.
I would fill the oil tank with good stuff and then pour 200mls of your nice fresh oil down the top inspection cap of the cylinder head, then with spark out plug out spin it over a dozen or so times to prime the pump and slosh it round the bearings.
Fresh petrol (ie new from pump - not a garage can!).
Starting ritual:
Tickle carb until petrol just comes out of top of carb
Prime the head with two swings on the kickstart with decompression lever pulled in.
Half retard on the ignition lever (I'm guessing tight cable is full advance (show is a pic of the primary side of the mag and we can tell you for sure)
Half choke
Turn engine over gently until you feel compression, then edge over TDC (you should hear air escape from exhaust port)
Full blooded swing on kickstart with tiny amount of throttle open and you should get fire up.
Post some clear pics when you get it whilst you are prepping these things
Good luck!

[Dan_B33]

 Nice cheat-sheet Neil!
Might come handy!
Nice looking bike!

[NTJosh]

Neil,

Cheers for your in-depth reply, your suggestions are pretty much what i had in mind. Im away for work and don't think ill get to see the bike prior to xmas, the owner will be away over the xmas/new year period so hoping to pick it up early/mid January.

If i remember rightly the advance/retard cable went into the right side of the mag (Looking from primary side), believe this makes it a "Tight wire" advance the same as my Ariel.
Soon as i pick it up i will post some more detailed phots.

Will be using Castrol Classic GP50 for the engine
Castrol Classic ST90 for the gearbox (Suitable for bronze bushes)
Will either use the engine oil in the primary or ATF.

cheers

Josh

Although I am a relative newcomer to this forum but I will say welcome.
I really like the look of your bike (prewar cosmetics but a good engine, need better pics of engine gearbox when you have it?
The things I would do are:
1) Drop 10mls of Redex down the spark plug hole and leave for a couple of days whilst I do the rest of the jobs
2) remove the oil tank filter and clean it.  I'd be tempted to remove the oil tank and give it a really good swirl and maybe bottle brush with paraffin in the nooks and crannies.  As you say remove the sump plate and screen, clean inspect.  Oil pumps on these do not have to provide high pressure more flow.  The bearings are lubricated by splash of clean oil.  Wet sumping when they have been left standing is common and does not mean a duff pump.  If it has wet sumped you may find excessive oil in the primary chaincase which only needs a small amount of oil, enough to cover the lower run of the chain and not drown the clutch plates.  If you are heavy handed with the pump the body can get distorted.  I'd probably leave in situ. for now (YMMV).
Same goes for the gearbox, I'd drain oil out and see what it is like and of course replace with good quality ofc correct grade for your climate.
New plug of correct grade (not R type), plain solid copper wire HT lead and non-suppressed plug cap.
I'd check tappets cold (if it is a B31/3 then 3 thou)  Set points at 12 thou and plug gap at 18 thou.
Give the petrol tank a good flush out (best off the bike) and flush the carb out too (you may need to clean it out with proper carb cleaner but try a basic drain and flush first).  Check that the petrol pipes are in good order and ideally Ethanol proof.  The petrol taps, if push type may have dried cork, brass lever types are ok.
Obviously lube all the cables, check the wheel and headstock bearings - you get the drift.
I would fill the oil tank with good stuff and then pour 200mls of your nice fresh oil down the top inspection cap of the cylinder head, then with spark out plug out spin it over a dozen or so times to prime the pump and slosh it round the bearings.
Fresh petrol (ie new from pump - not a garage can!).
Starting ritual:
Tickle carb until petrol just comes out of top of carb
Prime the head with two swings on the kickstart with decompression lever pulled in.
Half retard on the ignition lever (I'm guessing tight cable is full advance (show is a pic of the primary side of the mag and we can tell you for sure)
Half choke
Turn engine over gently until you feel compression, then edge over TDC (you should hear air escape from exhaust port)
Full blooded swing on kickstart with tiny amount of throttle open and you should get fire up.
Post some clear pics when you get it whilst you are prepping these things
Good luck!

[B31Matt]

Morning all. Just looking into change the gearbox oil in my B31 1953 plunger. I've got some Motul Transoil mineral 10w-30 which I'm told by BelRay oil products is the exact equivalent to 75w viscosity.
Just wondering if anyone on here agrees that this will be ok or not??
Thanks in advance

[neil1964]

I thought 20/50 was the correct oil for these?  Corresponds to 90EP.
I suspect 10-30 will leak out pretty promptly at summer temperatures 😉

[iansoady]

You don't need a multigrade in the gearbox as it doesn't get that hot. I would use either an 80 grade gear oil or 50 grade engine oil. The late Fred Barlow who was a unit single guru recommended 140 gear oil in my Commando and I have to say it worked very well.

[limeyrob]

Firstly that bike looks nice, leave it as it is for now just check the oil return.  You can (I do) take the plug out and push the bike along in gear until I see oil.  Only if the bike has been rebuilt or is an unknown quantity but better safe than sorry.
I use EP90GL4 in boxes, this is the bonze friendly version of EG90 and its costs the same or less than EP90GL5 once you find somewhere that stocks it.  Its used in old Land Rovers as they have a lot of bronze bearings.
Are you sure that bike has been messed about with, it could be a perfectly good M33.

[B31Matt]

You don't need a multigrade in the gearbox as it doesn't get that hot. I would use either an 80 grade gear oil or 50 grade engine oil. The late Fred Barlow who was a unit single guru recommended 140 gear oil in my Commando and I have to say it worked very well.

oh thats interesting...I've just been given some 140 gear oil?? Maybe I will go with that

[neil1964]

Firstly that bike looks nice, leave it as it is for now just check the oil return.  You can (I do) take the plug out and push the bike along in gear until I see oil.  Only if the bike has been rebuilt or is an unknown quantity but better safe than sorry.
I use EP90GL4 in boxes, this is the bonze friendly version of EG90 and its costs the same or less than EP90GL5 once you find somewhere that stocks it.  Its used in old Land Rovers as they have a lot of bronze bearings.
Are you sure that bike has been messed about with, it could be a perfectly good M33.

I use old type Castrol EP90 (GL4 spec) in my BSA gearboxes NS I use the same spec stuff (GL4) in the gearbox, overdrive, transfer box and diffs of my Series Landrover too (but cheaper as I have to top it up every 3-4 months!!)

[limeyrob]

Yes I run a Series 2A and buy the EP90GL4 in bulk, its much simpler to use one oil for everything that's not an engine!