How not to B33!

[Derek996]

Once you get the bearing off, that's the hard bit,  warm the slip ring gently with a hot air gun then it should easily slip off.

[Dan_B33]

Hello Derek, thanks for a hint.
Slip ring is now off and nothing damaged.

Shall I apply any sort of a glue/paste when I reinstall?

[Derek996]

Hello Derek, thanks for a hint.
Slip ring is now off and nothing damaged.

Shall I apply any sort of a glue/paste when I reinstall?

I didn't, it didn't need anything it was quite a firm fit and once the bearing is on  it can't move anyway. I must say you don't waste any time  😃

[Dan_B33]

Derek!!
I have Spark!!
Alignment of the armature was hard one!!

First test show bright spark! Some shocks receved by my body as well.

Need to put that all stuff all together and test ride it!

Dan

[neil1964]

Derek!!
I have Spark!!
Alignment of the armature was hard one!!

First test show bright spark! Some shocks receved by my body as well.

Need to put that all stuff all together and test ride it!

Dan

Excellent. Did you spin it up on a lathe to square it up?

[Dan_B33]

Yes I visited my friend to square it.
I have to revisit him since I feel it is still a bit off.

The most important thing is it worked . And DIY bright spark works as well.

I'm in a process of moving from my house so hard to spare time.

I hope to be back on the road testng next week.

Dan

[Derek996]

Derek!!
I have Spark!!
Alignment of the armature was hard one!!

First test show bright spark! Some shocks receved by my body as well.

Need to put that all stuff all together and test ride it!

Dan

Great news Dan. I hope that sorts your hot starting problem.

[Derek996]

Excellent. Did you spin it up on a lathe to square it up?

I don't have a lathe so I scribed lines on the ends of the armature and the centre section and made sure they all lined up when I put it back together. I had no issues with this. Maybe I was just lucky.

[neil1964]

Excellent. Did you spin it up on a lathe to square it up?

I don't have a lathe so I scribed lines on the ends of the armature and the centre section and made sure they all lined up when I put it back together. I had no issues with this. Maybe I was just lucky.

I think that if you are careful and sympathetic. I've got a box of MO1 mags in various states (incl some rewound bobbins). They all have stamps to help pairing.
I did have one that did not run true (grazed the magnet on rotation) but trued it up by tweaking the end cap/bobbin alignment tapping back and forth.

[Dan_B33]

Hello, first testing done.
Spark looks better thou the problem is not gone.

Im happy since I have now capacitor outside.

Coul it be linked to carburator?

I have checked spark plugs after ride and it is nice brown. Indicating mixture is ok.


When warm it is easier to start with fully advanced ignition.

I have set ignition timing by book.

Shall I still set it more advanced?

[Derek996]

My son has a 500cc Royal Enfield Big Head Bullet which has a similar problem. It has a very good Lucas SR1 rotating magnet magneto and these are not known for breaking down with heat soak. In his case I'm sure it's the carb setting. I've suggested richening the idle mixture by ¼ turn to see if it improves but he won't listen to me and it still suffers from poor hot starting.
On the Amal carbs screwing the mixture screw in reduces the air, making the mixture richer. If ¼ turn richer doesn't improve it try ¼ turn the other way making the mixture slightly leaner. Small differences to the pilot mixture can have a large effect on starting and if slightly too lean, pick up from a closed throttle.

[Dan_B33]

Hello Derek,
Nice one! RE 500 with big head was one my dream.

I will take your advise.

I have Monoblock. I have already added some air by unscrewing.with that I was able to reach staring her with fully advanced ignition.
Will double check the timing with clock and with spoke.


Will keep in trying

[rhyatt]

hot starting is often not down to any actual problem , just the way the machine is re-started from hot.

a hot engine will continue to vaporise the remaining fuel in the carb - this generates a "cloud  of gas and this cloud is sucked into the head at the 1st kick from hot.
this cloud saturates the plug and fouls it - preventing a start
so - when starting from hot - open the throttle a bit (experience will tell you how big a bit) and then kick it.
this slightly open throttle brings more air in with the cloud and allows a hot start

[Dan_B33]

Thanks rhyatt,
I will experiment with that.

I guess addin 8mm separator pad between carb and head won't fix it? Any experience with that?

Dan

[neil1964]

I always use a thermal insulator block between head and carburettor, 6mm or 1/4" is about right although you might need slightly longer studs to make sure you don't warp the flange (and body).
Presume you set your ignition static at TDC fully advanced and you are adjusted to get full excursion of the cam plate with your lever?
If your mag is slightly low on output you get a stronger spark at the 'flip-point' of the magnet-rotor which is typically where the spark is fully advanced.
Retarded setting is always weaker, hence better spark advanced.
If your armature is breaking down and partly shorting internally when truly hot this can manifest as weaker spark. 
A weak magnet can do the same but hot or cold.
Presume your valve clearances are not too tight so are not slightly open when hot and are 3thou set as per BSA method (when I first got one of these I set  both at TDC on firing stroke which was not truly correct).
Assuming correct advance (have you double checked it) has not slipped will just give you pinking!