Engine mount spacers C15

[Barnsey]

Hi again all,

   I am re-starting this as a new topic since it is no longer really about the speedo cable.


Help!  I can see the issue now.  I've not looked at the bike all week and now I am revisiting it.

  It is something which I suspected before  and then pushed to the back of my mind.

  Your photo shows spacers between the engine mount and the frame.  There are none on my bike.

  That explains why the crud catcher on the bottom of the engine is hard against the frame.  Also why there is no space for a speedo cable.

  It looks like the previous restorer ( and I use the term lightly) left them out and then squeezed the frame in to fill the gap.

   Can anyone please suggest a solution?  Even if I can get hold of spacers I will need to jack the frame apart to take them .  I am not sure how to do this.  Maybe there is a tool?

     BR,

   Ian

   P.S   I have now sourced the spacers on Ebay, but I may need a longer engine mounting bolt. 

    The major issue is knowing how best to stretch the frame back to the right width to take the spacers.  Ideally without having to remove the engine Has anyone had to do this before? 

[idie]

You may find that with the studs undone the frame will spring will out. It move enough to get a lever in to prison apart .

[Keith Tomlinson]

Had same problem when trying to remove and replace sump plate. Hard to get spanner onto nuts and hard to refit plate squarely to ensure oil tight.
I blamed BSA designers until like you found a previous owner/restorer had refitted without spacer. I managed to get a spacer in by removing all engine bolts, head steady, exhaust etc (everything that holds the engine firm), then retracted the bottom bolt Back through getting a big lever in between frame and engine, hard pull and jiggling and managed to get spacer in a bit, then hammered spacer into place, pushed back engine bolt and then refitted everything but plate still seems a bit far over.
I thought later it would be just as easy to pop the engine out and fit the plate back on whilst on the bench but this would not fix the frame being pulled in because of missing spacer. I'm no expert but luckily I decided to splash out a (not inconsiderable) bit and got both volumes of Rupert Ratio's Unit Single Manuals which have saved me much heartache already and are a Godsend to someone like myself with little knowledge (Xmas /birthday pressy? - better than socks).
He explains this is a common fault on all frames to '68 and details how to remedy the problem basically by engine out, 10mm threaded rod through bottom frame lugs with nuts in between the frame tubes then screw nuts out to jack tubes apart. I haven't done it yet but will do it next service and hopefully not need to use brute force with the spacer.

[Barnsey]

Thanks gents,

   Yup engine out plus a threaded bar was my first thought, but annoying to have to remove the engine. 

   However, I just might have an answer.  I found an old spring compressor.  I was able to reverse the jaws and I reckon that I can maybe use this to pull the frame apart without having to completely remove the engine. 
I may need to grind a little bit off of the jaws so that they can grip the frame. 

  Watch this space. 

    And, oh yes.  Rupert Ratio is cool, but I didn't know that there was a second  book. I'll check it out. 

   BR,

   Ian

[Stubaker58]

I've just done this on a B40 frame that I've bought to replace one which is u/s for registering. I was surprised how relatively easy it was to get the right hand frame tube pretty straight with some threaded bar.
I don't want to hijack this thread but my problem now is getting the head bearing races out, there really is no lip to get a drift behind.
Anyone overcome this issue?
Thanks.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I recently had to do this on a plunger A10.  After trying to cut the races out I thought of a simpler way.  Using cone shaped grinding stone in a Dremel I managed to remove just enough metal above the race to get a drift to engage.  I made the drift out of an old screwdriver and bent the end a bit to increase the contact.
I think Mike Farmer suggested running an arc welder round the race and it should drop out.

Dave.

[Stubaker58]

Thanks Dave, I'll get the Dremel out!
Not sure I understand about the arc welder though, is that just a case of getting the race hot?
Regards

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I suspect that ring of weld caused the race to shrink slightly as it cooled.

Dave.

[Stubaker58]

Aaah! I see.