BSA B40 hard shifting.

[rhyatt]

As you slowly tease the cover outwards, either push with a screwdriver or tap gently with hammer , the kist start shaft to hold it in place as you extract the outer cover

[highboy_coupe]

Thanks for the advice.

Ok, that's all back together, only discovered one stripped thread, I think it must have wound out because I didn't feel anything loose when I undid then all!  Hopefully the rtv will hold on the oil. I didn't have the correct helicoil for that thread.

[highboy_coupe]

Do there happen to be 2 different clutch cable lengths for the b40?  I have a huge box full of 60/70s spares and of all the 5 or six clutch cables I have, with the actuator arm adjusted correctly they are so tight there is no adjustment. I had to wind the arm in using the locknut and screw on the primary side to get the clutch cable ferrule in.

[rhyatt]

I'm unsure of cable lengths sorry.
Sitting on bike looking down from above the gear side, my clutch arm is about 1 o'clock at rest , finishing up at 90 degrees to the cable when clutch lever is pulled in.
And I have about 1/2 turn of free play on the pushrod.
I suppose different handlebars may not help

[Stubaker58]

I'm fairly sure that there are two lengths.  The early B40 (like the C15) had a simple lever inside the timing outer to activate the pushrod. Maybe you have only early cables?

[highboy_coupe]

Thanks, I think you are right, there seems to be:

1966-> 46"

65-66 60" (modified gearbox)

60-64  54"

This might explain why the actuator was put at 12 o'clock, as that gives just the right amount of slack in the cable.

I'll take mine off and measure it, because it would be unlikely to be 6" too short!! One thing I thought maybe the metal cable holder in top of the case has got jammed and not seated all the way? That might do it.