NEW TO 1934 BSA B2

[GeorgeW]

Hello - I am a new poster to the forum having recently become the owner of a BSA B2. I am a regular active member of the LE Velocette club and attend the majority of their local area club runs. I also like to use my CD 175 Honda and also own a 1933 Box Saloon Austin Seven. For a good number of years I have admired the B2, missed a couple of chances to buy, but now have managed to 'scratch the itch'.
The bike is a runner, has I believe had a bit of a hard life and is in oily rag condition.
Over the last couple of weeks I have been trying to get to know the bike and have placed an order for some of the BMS publications from the National Motor Cycle Museum (yet to arrive - postal deliveries being a bit upset at the moment). Subsequently I have a few queries that some members may be able to clarify. 1)The correct adjustment of the pilgrim pump and is there a rough guide to the drip rate at say tick over. 2) What is the recommended oil for the pump (I guess straight 50's). 3)How is the oil feed to the primary chain regulated? my bike leaks copious amounts of oil after just a few minutes running at tick over. The end of the open pipe and I guess it's almost a quarter inside diameter. Is it ok to blank off the feed and simply lubricate the chain with spray lube?
4)What grade of grease is best for the rockers and to the nipple which is located to the side of the inlet valve. 5)There is an oil leak from a crankcase screw which is in the horizontal plane and pretty well in line with the pushrod tubes. I'm not sure what the screw does so I'd like to know what it's function might be before I start fiddling. 6)The carburettor marking has been obliterated over the years so it would be helpful to know the carb model and would any body know if a new needle and its seating are available.
Apologies for the length of the mail and its queries. Best Regards - George

[Steve.S]

Hello George,
The carburettor should be a 76/012, 23/32" bore.
Main jet 75
Needle jet .106
Slide 4/4
Needle position 2
I would have a look at the Amal website, or Hitchcock's for carburettor parts.
The oil feed to the primary chain is not regulated as such. It just depends on crankcase pressure and how much oil is in the crankcase. I set my oil pump to 1 drop every 4 seconds at tickover. BSA recommended 16 drops (at, I think running speed), but you should look for just a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust when opening the throttle after descending a hill.
The engine breathes through the primary chain oiler, so I wouldn't block it off. It's a total loss oiling system, so you should expect a teaspoon or two of oil under the motorcycle when you stop. I would start by draining the crankcase, and see how you go from there.
I find it important to close the oil tap when not in use, otherwise the crankcase fills with oil, and this may be causing part of your problem. Please don't forget to turn it on before starting the engine.
I seem to remember BSA issued a Bulletin in the mid '30s regarding excessive oil coming out of the chain oiler. Unfortunately I can't find it, but basically it said to reduce the size of the hole... perhaps fit a washer with a 3/16" hole in it.
I suppose excessive oil could be caused by too much crankcase compression.
I use Castrol 50 grade oil, and Castrol LM high melting point grease for the rockers and valve guide.
I have never seen a screw in the crankcase as you describe. I wonder if a previous owner might have drilled and tapped a hole? A picture would be useful.
There was an article in the Motor Cycling magazine dated 26th August 1954 on these engines.
Hope this helps.

[GeorgeW]

Hello Steve and thanks for the very detailed reply.
I'll start working through the points that you have mentioned with first port of call being to check / drain the crankcase. It was interesting to know how the crankcase breathes so a big thank you there.
The obscure screw that I referred to could be a peg to prevent rotation of the bush located in that area.
I'll investigate carb parts at Amal and Hitchcock's now that I have the carb model number.
I have a copy of the 1954 Motor Cycling service sheet for the B2 but unfortunately it' s very blurred and impossible to read. I was contemplating contacting Morton's media to see if they have an archive copy.
I'd estimate that I have the drip rate similar to that which you mention at tick over for your machine but I have yet to actually ride my bike. The previous owner also mentioned to have a faint exhaust haze when actually motoring.
I'll close off the oil when the bike isn't in use but I will be instigating some form of device to remind me to ensure the oil tap is open.
Anyhow Steve, thanks again for the info and best regards.
George.

[Steve.S]

Yes indeed, there is a grub screw underneath the timing chest, but I would say it is vertical rather than horizontal. Anyhow, if this is what you are referring to, it's purpose is to prevent the crankshaft bush from rotating, as you suggest. I would remove it (if you can......maybe a little heat might help), and refit it with a smear of red hermatite. (I think it's called Hylotite these days). I think you will be very lucky if you can get it out in situ, much easier with the engine out.
I use 2 or 3 cardboard signs hung about the motorcycle to remind me that the tap is off, but if they fall off, I've had it.
If the carburettor is original, it should have the small 39mm OD float chamber fitted. 62/099, (I think it's called a Type 22)  rather than the more common 48mm OD one. The needle and seating might be different.
Let us know how you get on.

[GeorgeW]

Hello Steve, just a quick line to let you know that I did manage to remove the screw and have refitted it using red Hylotite with a twist of hemp at the outer threads. I checked / drained the crankcase of oil. The amount drained didn't seem too great - around 50cc but I guess any amount in the bottom of the case being whipped up by the flywheels could result in the leak that I have noted from the breather. I'll check it out when I run the bike later this week knowing that the crankcase is currently clear (I'm waiting for the dynamo to come back after having been checked as OK by Ribblesdale auto electricians).   
I've rigged up a rough 'oil on' checker with spring clips linked to the throttle and oil isolating valve.
The carburettor float chamber OD is 39mm - relevant info no doubt when I enquire about spare parts.
Later in the week I'll post how I get on when I run the bike and thanks again for the info.
Best regards - George.

[GeorgeW]

Hello to All - just a quick update regarding the breather oiling leak. I have today run the bike up without any oil coming out of the breather. I only ran the bike for a few minutes, but it's a lot different from previous runs so I'll have to see how things go when I try the bike on the road and become more acquainted with its oiling system.
Regards to All and thanks again Steve.
George