Thorspark Electronic Ignition Conversion

Started by mo goldie, 30 Jul, 2022, 11:10

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mo goldie

Hi all thanks for all your help..


Julian

well I hope I have done right i decided to take the Mag off and have a look inside Not as if I could see much which I could Not but at least it is off..... any way I have taken you very expensive route and gone for the SRM one ....well when they send it that is .... don`t know what comes with the kit other than what was in the picture.

do you get any of the bearings seals etc with the kit and I see yours had the com red dummy leads on do you get them or the standard ones ...........or anything else you can tel me I need to Know will be great.

Cheers thanks Mo 


JulianS

Mo Sorry I didn't get back to you re the SRM kit.

The Boyer micropower  was not a success, it was difficult to start and constantly kicked back ( no it was not low voltage) It ran well when the micropower setup was changed for a Boyer Mk 4, but to be honest after the initial problem I was fed up with it and decided to go back to the magneto which was rewound by Priory Magnetos and gives faultless performance.

mo goldie

thanks Julian

yes well I have got the one I put a link to, that means I will have mine done as a back up....If I ever needed it that is Hope I don`t so we shell see how it all go`s .

Cheers Mo

mo goldie

well just a quick update the kit came today,,, No duel coil so got to get one of them and get a fixed drive gear for the mag and a switch to shut it all off and on plus a few other bit`s and bob`s .....price keep going up ha  ::)

it better be worth it ha  ;D

mo goldie

Hi everyone.

Well an update on the way things are going well Not too good at the moment, I have put all together and I have a spark but she wont fire up, took the plugs out for the tenth and got her to TDC on comp stroke then backed off 3/8 BTDC and she wont even fire. on the trigger I have set it to the A position which is anti clock wise and the rotor lines up with the stator Line....... Thought I might be 18o out so turned it around and still Nothing......Getting a bit dejected at the Min as done it to the book.....and it is positive earth which I have check about ten times to make sure That I have got it right....... and as I say I have a spark on both plugs......anyone had any problems with this kit oh its this one

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264042340008?hash=item3d7a265ea8:g:6kYAAOSwkgBiPe~D&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsJ5FN6RCqCIfxdEwyA24xvlv5SajvbvxpKq7eflAVcEIN1LaRs6il2rpXff%2BIY4DQsWPfUT%2FlTjasyw3ECSvzyEQGnNZyH4SeNk%2FtaVTIVWjqrKsqRGq4aPKlmXMajVR2RcqIbsTNdcfCKvDZADjM%2FgDjrPSXKDB3QrYKOAra%2BSmY35pzxt1PQFhMu%2BwvclajDJdsTwvIzF5z9oMIMCraWoxFcDSJjsnBn4VvrZoXDlp%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5rW6oXXYA

DAVE BRADY

Hi,

As you have a twin lead coil they both fire at the same time so being 180º out should not make much difference, not like with a mag.
If there is a spark and fuel then the motor would at last try to fire so perhaps something a bit more basic.

This had been mentioned on the Forum before and I know it can happen because I have done it but...

How are you turning the engine to get TDC?   As the engine turns forward when running it must be timed using forward rotation, so clockwise from the timing side or anticlockwise from the primary side. 
This is clutching at straws but worth a thought.

Dave.

mo goldie

Hi Dave

I am kicking it over till I get TDC then putting it in 2nd gear and just knocking it back using the rear wheel and taken the TDC tool back 3/8" and yes I am Anti clock wise from the Primary side, the rotor mark is spot on the the A on the pick ups,

I have also tried to do it on the right cylinder as well still No luck, Battery is full the spark is Not that great I think looks a bit yellow. the coil has two leads one yellow and one black so I think that the yellow is the + one and the Black is the - one,
I have wired it up just how Wassel book say to do for a twin coil with Positive earth, as I say the is a spark at both plugs I even changed the plugs just incase but still nothing.

Mo   

DAVE BRADY

Hi,

The spark is in the right place but looking a bit weak.  Even with a less than ideal spark there would still be an attempt at firing.  The next 'straw clutching' question must be, is enough fuel getting through?
Usually a spark and some fuel results in some combustion.

Dave.

mo goldie

Hi dave

Just had anther look and yes loads of fuel as the plugs get wet I really am just seem to be fed up at the moment.i am going to call brit bikes tomorrow and ask if they have had any problems with the units.i thought this would be just fit and forget...got the show coming up in a few weeks it's booked in but don't think it will be going at this rate.

DAVE BRADY

#25
Hi mo,

I have just found another piece of straw. I think this is right.
Looking at the timing side the crank turns clockwise, the idler turns anticlockwise, the cam turns clockwise so the mag pinion turns anticlockwise. 
So using a bit of imagination, looking through the engine from the primary side, the crank turns anticlockwise, the idler turns clockwise, the cam turns anticlockwise so the mag pinion turns clockwise.
So from this the points end of the mag turns clockwise so perhaps the C on the stator should be used.

Dave.

Just been out to the shed and checked the EI on my wife's A10 and the rotor turns clockwise.
Have look at the arrow on your old mag just to make sure.

mo goldie

Hi Dave

are yes that all seems right to me, and yes I do see that the rotor is going in the clock wise direction looking from the primary side so maybe tomorrow I will look to setting it up on the C and Not the A..... worth a Try ha,

Cheers Mo

mo goldie

YAHOOOOOO ( No Not Them lot  :D )

Thanks Dave and to the Wife`s A10..... as yes that was it....so all this time going by the book was wrong as yes it needed to be on the C on the pick up an Not the A, at least I am near Now to spot on Timing as she run`s but needs setting up better.....I Know a strobe would be good but what ? strobe at the marks on the rotor and pick up marks ?



DAVE BRADY

Hi Mo,

Fantastic news.  Trying to strobe on the rotor and pickups seems a bit fiddly.  I would use something like a 6" degree disc attached to the crank and a pointer attached with one of the case screws.  This means that each degree and any adjustments can be easily seen.  I know it means taking the primary cover off with the hassle of resealing it but it will probably be worth it. You will be able to any adjustments of the EI stator as you make them.  SRM recommend 35º BTDC for the Aluminium heads.  This is supposed to be better todays fuels other wise I think it is 38º.

Dave

mo goldie

#29
Hi Dave

Yes that what I thought I would have to do which is taken off the primary cover but if a job is worth doing it`s worth doing right ha..... thanks again for all your help and at least I have a week or so to get it all done before the show......just hope this year I don't get Knocked off like last year coming home. the BSA won a best in Judges class so I was well happy.... riding My KH400 home first when some daft Tart done a U turn in front of me..... Bike lay in bit`s ...me well what can I say Broken shoulder Bone and 8 Broken ribs,,,,, still I have rebuilt the KH400 better than it was New Now so she will be in show too this year...... Oh I built her from a frame and half an Engine 15 years ago for a £1 including the V5 ........