B31/33 clutch plates

[Greenfield]

My usual philosophy is if its working, leave well alone. However, the recent poor weather drove me into the garage and before I knew it the clutch of my B33 plunger was in pieces on the bench. It was working well, but I knew from previous work that the clutch was not as it should be and I suspected that I had a B31 clutch; very similar but with fewer plates. I have steel plates of two different designs. If I'm correct, the plates should all be slotted. I'm not proposing to replace the non slotted plates but I'm guessing that the slots are there to prevent build up of oil on the friction surfaces. Any thoughts?
I have ordered an extra steel plate and friction plate, a B33 basket which I expect to be deeper to accommodate the extra plates plus a new push rod. I'm looking forward to comparing the parts when they arrive.

[idie]

Normally a B31 has 3 friction plates, a B33 has 4 and the A7/10 has 5. I run my B33 and M33 with the A10 clutch. As you are getting a new plate, I hope this is one friction and one driving and a new clutch basket don't forget the clutch chain wheel as if this is not deep enough the extra plates won't fit.

[Greenfield]

Comparing the B31 and B33 clutches, the back plate, clutch plates and pressure plate are identical. But, because of the addition steel and friction plate in the B33, total thickness around 6mm, the chainwheel and basket need to be deeper to accommodate the extra plate. What I haven't received yet is a new pushrod. The one for the B31 is 11 7/8" long but the B33 one should be 12 1/8" long as the pressure place is set further out.
As I said in my previous post, the smaller clutch worked fine, even with a 21T engine sprocket, but I had never tried to set off two up on a steep uphill.