Fork leg removal (1965 B40F)

[Beesy]

It slides off the bottom. Usual method is to hold the top part I stanchion in a vice, then sharply yank the fork slider down.

Repeat it a few times and the slider should come off the stanchion

[Phil C]

Even with the circlip in there? Surely not?

[JulianS]

You need to remove the circlip. It is usually difficult and has to be prised out. Try a thin screw drive or similar.

[Phil C]

Thanks. Got it out just now, using a scriber and thin screwdriver. Satisfying.

[JulianS]

Well done it is not easy!!

[Spaceman]

Normally with circlips like those, you may need two small screwdrivers: one to lever out one end of the circlip and the other to slip between it and the fork slider. Once you have the 2nd screw driver behind the end of the circlip, you can then repeat the process moving along the circlip until you can prise it free.

[AdrianS]

No secret - it is a pain to do!
Once out you can separate the 2 halves and the top bush will come out. You can then start dismantling so you can get the seal holder out. Then reverse the process. You may find the top bush needs some encouragement to seat back into the lower fork leg. Don't use anything sharp. I use a bit of wooden doweling to seat.
Good luck!

[Phil C]

Me again. Next problem: to get the bushes off the stanchion I need to get the nut off of the bottom of the stanchion. It's pretty tight on. Holding the stanchion pretty tightly in a vice and trying to turn the nut, the stanchion just turns in the vice. I don't want to heave too hard on the vice, in case I damage the stanchion. I'm not sure how thick the stanchion wall is, but I wouldn't want to squeeze it out of round. People have obviously undone these nuts many times. Any advice please?   Phil

[Phil C]

BTW, re my previous post, I don't have a lathe. Or a strap wrench.   Phil

[Spaceman]

I doubt if you'll deform the stanchion but you will damage the chrome if you are not careful. Problem is that you will not be able to clamp it tight enough in the vice to be able to unscrew the nut using a steady torque. The technique I've used is to first apply heat to the stanchion (not the nut) and then, using a long adjustable wrench on the nut, apply a sharp tap to the end of the wrench. As with the fork top nut previously, you have to apply a big enough impulse to start the nut turning.

[Spaceman]

Although I've never needed to do it this way, the alternative is to clamp the legs back in the yokes - with a bit of luck the bottom yoke clamp will be sufficient to stop the stanchion from turning.

[idie]

Last year I did some forks from a Shooting Star, very similar to your's. I had the same problem even using 2ft stillsons the nut would not turn. As the PO had Loctited the tapers into the top yoke I guessed he had done the same with the nut. A lot of heat applied and it came undone and yes he had coated the threads with Loctite.

[Phil C]

Thing is, a vice doesn't grip a round surface very efficiently, so I don't need to swing on a spanner very hard, or give it much of a shock, before the stanchion turns in the vice.   Phil

[Bicycle repair man]

Put the leg temporarily back into the yoke and tighten the lower pinch bolt. You should be able to undo the lower nut.

[Phil C]

Yes, I'll try that.

Btw, people talk about the lower pinch bolt.  as far as i can see, there is only a lower one. I don't see an upper one. (or is that why I had difficulty removing the leg?! )   

Phil