Inside the outer timing cover of '54 A10 S/A

[RESTORER]

Hi all, I have removed the outer timing cover to check on the dynamo driving chain tension (noisy), but this has led to three questions. Once in I noticed that the auto advance and retard unit securing bolt now has a very rusty head (see pics). Everywhere else has an oil coating and seems OK, although there are also some rust spots on the pinion behind the breather. Can anyone explain what causes this and what I should do about it.  Also there are some white milky deposits where oil has gathered on the ends of the plates which are thrown outwards to advance, looking very much like the "mystic" I used to use years ago. Could this be condensation due to insufficient use? About 100mls of oil drained out from the oil pump area when the timing cover was first split, is this about normal?  Although I try and run the motor at least once every few days, it has not yet reached its first mile, just testing on my drive. Thanks for reading.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

It does seem odd to get rust in a closed case with oil flying about.  It does, however look like there could be some condensation in there. There seems to be a bit of emulsified oil in the 'top hat' of the breather How long do you run the engine for?  If it does not get up to working temperature then condensation could occur.  Also, how rusty were these components before cleaning and fitting.  Remnants of rust could have remained and be 'feeding' on the moisture.  Incidentally BSA considered it necessary to fit and access plug in the inner timing cover to apply oil to the AR.  I believe only for a very short time but it does imply that perhaps this part of the timing case can have insufficient oil in some circumstances.  I would not suggest though, that you need to make this modification.
There is usually some oil in the timing case but I have never measured the amount so 100mls may well be normal.

Dave.

[idie]

100mls is about right for the amount of oil in case.

[RESTORER]

Thanks lads, good answers for me these. I don't run it for long as I worry about overheating without fin cooling from movement (discussed previously) but it is a few minutes and seems to be hot. I don't believe there was any rust when I fitted the unit or else I would have sorted it, as I will do now. If I hadn't gone in to sort the dynamo chain tension I would not have known about the rust so that's lucky really, but I notice now that the weights don't spring back fully - another little surprise. Thanks again.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I don't suppose you remember checking the A/R unit before and after fitting?  It is feasible that the inner parts are a bit dry regardless of the engine being run and oil being flung about.  As you may not be removing it to clean the retaining nut try squirting some oil on to the mechanism and work it in.  The springs should then return the mechanism fully.  If not then new springs may be needed.  It is also worth noting if the action works better with the nut just loosened.  If so it could indicate that there is a bit binding when the nut is fully tightened.
I would think that the engine is not reaching full working temperature but it may not be good idea to get it much hotter whilst stationary.  I am sure that you will get it on the road soon for proper running in.

Dave.

[JulianS]

The weights on the AR unit dont spring back quickly when it is fixed to the magneto shaft, those little springs are pulling against the weight of the armature, the magnetic field, the friction in the bearings, oil seal, pick up brushes and the points assembly. The AR action is dynamic, kick the engine over and you should see them easily return. That is normal.

However if the action of the unit is stiff when not fixed to the magneto there may be corrosion inside the unit causing the problem.

[RESTORER]

Coincidentally, I have just opened up to add that I have now removed the unit and cleaned what I could without stripping and I find your new replies. All the bits are quite wet but with a liquid as thin as WD which runs out if I shake the unit, definitely not neat engine oil. I don't get understand this at all. I did not find any foreign bodies. However the unit operates perfectly when in my hand but stiffens when fitted. The weights go to fully advanced OK but barely return 1/2 way as if binding. I think that new springs are a good idea and will keep on cleaning until they arrive. I also intend to reset the timing whilst its all split in case that could be the answer to my discolouring exhausts. Thanks for these last replies - answered most of my questions before I had time to ask them!