Kickstart oil seal housing (1965 B40F)

Started by Phil C, 28 Mar, 2021, 17:33

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Phil C

Hello from a chilly Devon (but hoping for better weather over the next few days.) Whilst my timing side outer cover was off, I thought I'd replace the kickstart oil seal. Taking out the old one, it seemed to be well stuck in, and brittle, and broke up when  I was trying to remove it.  Please see attached photo.  Trying to get the remaining bits out (with a scriber) is quite tricky as they are well stuck in, and there are lots of small bits.  I need to get it all out obviously, in order that the new one will fit correctly, but I don't want to damage the metal surfaces in case that compromises the fit and therefore the seal (although I don't think it's likely to do.) It's a bit hard to see what the housing is like exactly. It appears to have two or three steps. So I was just wondering (a long shot really) if anybody could send a photo of the hole without the seal.  A long shot maybe, but somebody might have the cover off and seal removed? Also, any tips on getting out the stuck-in little bits would be much appreciated.   Thanks in advance.  Phil

Phil C

Morning all, lots of viewings of this but no responses so far. Any ideas please? Also, which way round should the seal be put in? The old one had the metal coil visible from the outside - is that the right way round?   Phil

Phil C

I'm beginning to think it's been glued in place.

Pete Gill

Hi Phil

Try a heat gun on it to see if it loosens better?

Most people recommend putting the seal in so the coil faces the oil ( easy way to remember )
In some cases though when you have to fit seals over splines and recesses in shafts its easier to push in on the other way to avoid damaging the edges of the internal diameter.
I ended up fitting the seal in the 'wrong' way on the gear lever shaft on my T160 as I damaged one trying to get it on the 'correct' way.
Some situations on certain bikes have special tools to support the seal edges whilst its being fitted to avoid tearing the edge.
Pete.

Phil C

Thanks Pete,  Good way to remember it, yes, coil to oil, Ill remember that. Mine was in the other way round, so I need to decide.  Anyway, I got the old one out in the end by a) persistence with the scriber, and b) doing it in better light. Photos show the hole as it is now, and the new seal from each side.    Phil

Phil C

#5
Hmmm...there's always something. Offering my nice new seal up to the casing, it seems too big to go in. Very disappointing.  The seal's o/d is about 25.7mm.  The steel rim inside the hole (see photo) which I thought the seal should sit it, is about 23mm I/d. The alli hole in which the steel sits is about (hard to measure) 25.2 - 25.4mm (so probably one inch.) There isn't enough depth in the alli hole to house the seal (because of the steel bit.) These measurements are not deadly accurate, just made with a very cheaptack vernier caliper. Any thoughts/advice please?   Phil

Phil C

Something's occurred to me: is the steel bit part of the old seal? I wonder. And if it is, how, I ask myself - and you - can I get it out? All advice much appreciated.  Phil

Phil C

I'm pretty sure the right angled steel flange is part of the old seal. I imagine my hot air gun might help, but am a bit flummoxed as to how to prise it out without damaging the hole in the alli casing and/or the kickstart shaft bush below it.  Any ideas?   Phil

courtney

My seal was too small and a bit loose going in. It does look like there's something else in there.
1965 BSA C15
1970 BSA B25 (US spec.)
2004 Aprilia Tuono

Stubaker58

That does look like the outer rim of the old seal. On my Bantams I've used a seal removal tool, looks like a viscous hatchet, to lever out the old seals. You may be able to drift yours out from behind?

Phil C

I don't know what happened to a post I thought I put on here
(with photos) explaining the outcome of this, but here's another brief explanation. It was part of the old seal. I couldn't get at it from the other side, and the hatchet-type thing wouldn't work (can't remember why, maybe wouldn't fit.) In the end I used a thin carpenter's chisel which I tapped gently between the flange of the old seal and it's seat. That lifted the flange just enough to get a screwdriver in to prise it out.