Undoing the alternator nut (1965 B40F)

[Phil C]

I guess I'll try removing the clutch plates and using my clutch locking tool.  Phil

[Mike Farmer]

 

Crazy idea. But anything is worth a try.

Put the bike in gear. Put a long spanner of some sort on the nut and jam spanner on ground or wherever then turn the engine the opposite way by "bouncing" the bike backward. Or use a chisel. A new nut is available and inexpensive. I know that goes completely against the grain---but!!!!

Mike

[Phil C]

I guess I'll try removing the clutch plates and using my clutch locking tool.  Phil

I notice nobody seems to be enthusing about that idea. Will it not work? Or what about jamming something (wood or aluminium) between the two sprockets or between a sprocket and the casing?  Phil

[DAVE BRADY]

Phil,

Try the clutch locking tool.  I have two of these.  One for A65 and one for a plunger A10.  This will remove the slipping clutch from the equation.
You will still need to stop it from turning so back brake on hard.  Jamming against the casing is running the risk of damaging the casing regardless of material used.  A piece of something between the clutch and front sprocket may do the trick but again possible damage so something soft.   The secret is a good fitting socket or ring spanner held against compression and as in line with the centres of the shafts as possible and a good whack with a heavy hammer. 

Dave.

[Mike Farmer]

 

Is it possible to remove the stator and then apply a bit of heat to the nut. Again not the best but might work

Mike

[Phil C]

Phil,

Try the clutch locking tool.  I have two of these.  One for A65 and one for a plunger A10.  This will remove the slipping clutch from the equation.
You will still need to stop it from turning so back brake on hard.  Jamming against the casing is running the risk of damaging the casing regardless of material used.  A piece of something between the clutch and front sprocket may do the trick but again possible damage so something soft.   The secret is a good fitting socket or ring spanner held against compression and as in line with the centres of the shafts as possible and a good whack with a heavy hammer. 

Dave.

Thanks Dave, you mean something soft between the two sprockets?
Heat idea notes, thanks Dave.
Phil

[Pete A10]

The art of mechanicking old bikes is often knowing how hard to hit things. As Dave has said and I said earlier, good fitting socket / ring spanner and a good sharp blow with a lump hammer. Also try a longer socket handle - tubing or even a breaker bar to get more torque on the nut. If you set yourself up standing on the brake pedal and pull upwards on the bar/ tube you will maximise the opposing efforts. I seem to remember the nut has a lock washer on it - daft suggestion but I assume that has been bent back??

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I assume that the chain is still on so something that fits between and aluminium rather than steel.  No matter what you do you still need to hold the clutch so that you have something to push against.
Perhaps Mikes suggestion of gentle heat would work and also reduce the amount of force needed.  It could be that thread locker has been used but as mentioned remove the alternator stator first.  Again get things lined up and a good whack on the ring spanner will move it.
You probably already know but the idea of the whack is to shock the nut against the inertia of the engine and back brake.

Dave.

[AdrianS]

Stick something soft between the chain and the sprocket. A lump of lead will do. I've got some old body shop lead used for lead loading which jams in well but some folded roofing lead may work.

Alternatively , find someone local with an impact driver and it will be off in a second.

[Phil C]

Thanks everyone. Pete, but I don't think the problem is not enough torque, it's stopping everything else turning. Anyway, taking on board the advice and still trying. Have just taken out clutch plates so I can lock the clutch.

[Phil C]

Hurray! I put my clutch locking tool on and the rotor nut undid straight away.  Thanks again everyone. I'm learning! Problem is remembering what  I've learnt! Next question should be along shortly. If I'm becoming a pain please just let me know - I won't be offended.  Phil

[Mike Farmer]

 

Hi. Pleased that you are at last successful. Your questions will never be treated here as anything other than genuine. In truth you may not be the only person learning from any specific subject. There is probably someone else right now saying "why don't I try that".

The only wrong question is the one that you don't ask.

Mike

[Pete Gill]

I'm pleased to hear its worked out Phil !

I must admit I'm not all that keen on hammering on old nuts on old shafts to release them.

Having bought a cheap 1/2" sq drive 3 foot long breaker bar  about 3 years ago i have found it very useful for undoing those primary drive , crank pinion, clutch centre  and even rear wheel nuts at times.
It's always helpful to know when you were the one who tightened the nut whether any thread sealant was used and that the torque was correct at time of fitting. When you inherit a situation its not always clear how its been fitted. Heat might be needed at times to release any thread sealant.
Pete

[Phil C]

I'd had it off before, but couldn't remember how, or whether I'd put loctite on it. Maybe need to write things down!  Phil

[Pete C]

for future reference,just place a bit of ally here and it locks solid, reverse it to tighten. No need to mess with brake or clutch.
Actually, as in the photo it is placed for tightening