Oil leak into outer timing case

Started by Phil C, 24 Jan, 2021, 18:46

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Phil C

No compressor. Where do people normally calibrate their torque wrenches? Local garage maybe?  Phil

Phil C

Quote from: PeteRae on 30 Jan, 2021, 21:10
I've bought mine from machine mart over the years...as Dave says, probably that kind of money....only problem with torque wrenches is that they have to be kept in calibration...if you drop them or knock them, thats them out of cal.
If you use extensions or long sockets you have to work out the change in torque...its a chuffing pain.
Unless you're working with alloy nuts, bolts and threads, personally, I don't bother with a torque wrench. You get a feel for it.
Have you got a wee compressor Phil? Get a windy gun to help crack nuts off and nip them up adequately....I've not stripped a thread yet after 40 plus years of spannering.
Just my opinion bud.
Pete.
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Thanks Pete. I can see that using an extension would change the leverage/torque, but wouldn't have thought a long socket would change it. Would it?  Phil

PeteRae

sorry Phil...a normal long socket would be okay.....just don't hold the socket or wrench steady as that can alter the torque...not a lot...but still a difference.
Not sure where you would get one calibrated, would probably be best to ask an engineering firm.
I got my small compressor at Aldi....not a lot of money and great for blowing up tyres, blowing out brake pistons and powering air tools. Pete.
you've seen it, you've heard it and you're still asking questions!

Blackthou

Hi Phil,

Another method of cleaning muck out the bottom of holes etc is with a twist drill. Choose one that's snug but can be turnned with your fingers and do just that. It will clear all the muck out of the hole. Then if you have one, gently run a tap down to clean out the threads.

I have three torque wrenches to cover very small to large range. Re calibration, not knocking other members comments but I've never had any of mine recalibrated. I'd imagine it would be virtually the same as the cost of a new one. I only say I haven't bothered because unless abused, I can't imagine it would be far enough out to cause damage. IMO the most important thing is not to leave it stored with any load on it.

Phil C

Thanks everyone re torque wrenches. I think I'll order one. I guess 3/8 sq drive would be best? I sometimes use Draper for medium price tools, so maybe I'll have a look at theirs.
Phil

Pete A10

There's a Silverline one on Amazon for £22. It won't be professional quality but how much are you going to use it?

DAVE BRADY

Hi Phil,

A 1/2"drive may be best as some of the larger sockets probably only come in 1/2" drive and you can get an adapter down to 3/8".
For imperial sizes have look on secondhand tool stalls at markets.  The larger sizes of socket and spanners tend to be a lot less worn.

Dave.

Phil C

Thanks Dave. Any other thoughts, anyone, on whether to go for 3/8" or 1/2" drive? It's for use on my B40F.  Phil

idie

I would go for the 1/2 inch drive. If you get something large to torque you could shear the end of a 3/8 inch one. You can get them on ebay for around £20.

Phil C

Thanks everyone. Spent some time looking at reviews. There's usually someone unhappy.  In the end ordered a 1/2" drive Draper. £29.95. As I can't find an adapter (thought I had one), am looking to get one on ebay (made an offer - what a skinflint!)

Usually with tools I'd rather buy a secondhand good make rather than a cheapo brand new.  But with a torque wrench I'm a bit uneasy about buying secondhand, in case it's been abused.   

Anyway, thanks again.    Phil.

AdrianS

Most of the decent 1/2 inch torque wrenches only go down to about 20 ft lb.
I bought a semi decent 1/4 inch drive one for lighter torque settings.

As with most nuts and bolts, I think most experienced mechanics know how tight they should be. The advantage of a torque wrench is consistency especially for cylinder heads. ( however very difficult in the case of my A50 head where the nuts and bolts are all over the place - end up using a ground down ring spanner and a spring balance to try and get some sort of even torque setting).

DAVE BRADY

Hi,

The head nuts on A50/A65 are a pain.  I use a good fitting ring spanner that the 1/2" drive will fit in the other end.  If you keep the toque wrench and spanner at as close to 90º as possible it will be reasonably accurate.  I think the B40 head has a similar problem on pushrod side.  There was a thread about this awhile ago. 

Dave.

AdrianS

Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 31 Jan, 2021, 14:45
Hi,

The head nuts on A50/A65 are a pain.  I use a good fitting ring spanner that the 1/2" drive will fit in the other end.  If you keep the toque wrench and spanner at as close to 90º as possible it will be reasonably accurate.  I think the B40 head has a similar problem on pushrod side.  There was a thread about this awhile ago. 

Dave.

I bought a 15mm combination spanner and ground the ring end down a little so it would fit over the nut and stud when tight and I could remove it! Measuring the centre from the ring to the open end the torque multiplier can be worked out and I use a spring balance from my fishing kit to pull the required setting. Tried the torque wrench method but found it more awkward. I appreciate it depends on the accuracy of the spring balance and also how accurately it is read.

Phil C

Not going very well at the moment. Received the outer cover bolts in the post today but some are clearly the wrong size. The set (of 10) I took off includes three which are smaller diameter (2BA, I think) than the rest (1/4") but the set I received in the post are all the same diameter (sigh.) Anyway I've ordered another set, this time from Kidderminster.
On another point, the lockwasher I've taken off  the kickstart
shaft is dished in towards the centre. Is it meant to be concave like that or has it been squashed into that shape by the nut? Should it be flat?  Thanks.  Phil

Phil C

Hello all,

Me again.  Further to my previous post, here's a couple of photos of the old lockwasher (which goes on the shaft and holds on the kickstart mechanism), and the new one I received in the post today. You'll see they're a bit different.  I take it the washer should be flat?  Which suggests the new one is right, even though it looks a touch weedy and I wonder whether 55lb ft might make it a similar shape to the old one.  Also, the tabs on the new one don't appear to fit those on the shaft. Any comments please?   Phil