Oil leak into outer timing case

[PeteRae]

+1

[Phil C]

See what you mean.

[Phil C]

Also, please have a look at the photos everyone.  I found these in the bottom of the outer cover, amongst all the thick oil.  I think they might be from the ratchet.  I guess i just get a new one, undo the nut, and change the ratchet?  Is it that simple? What might have caused this?

Hi Phil,
they certainly look like teeth from the kickstart ratchet. They can break off if the kicker is jumped on when stuck. The teeth on the quadrant and the ratchet don't always mesh initially and folk can maybe jump on the kicker rather than rocking the bike.
You will need a windy gun to take the nut off otherwise you'll have to stop the mechanism from turning with rags or a similar bodge.
Oh and get a new lockwasher too....
Only know cos I'm doing exactly the same at the moment...
Pete

I just thought I'd see how difficult the nut would be to undo. I put a ring spanner on it, didn't even use a rag to jam the mechanism, and it undid extremely easily. Should it? Phil

[PeteRae]

ermm....no is the simple answer Phil.
Possibly PO has just used the lock washer to stop it from turning.
I know that's what a lock washer does but the nut should be certainly tighter than that.
Just re-read your post....did the ratchet have a lock washer behind the nut?
Pete.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

On the A65 the ratchet nut has a torque setting of 55 to 60 ft/lbs.  I would think that the B40 would not be much less if any.

Dave.

[Phil C]

ermm....no is the simple answer Phil.
Possibly PO has just used the lock washer to stop it from turning.
I know that's what a lock washer does but the nut should be certainly tighter than that.
Just re-read your post....did the ratchet have a lock washer behind the nut?
Pete.

I haven't taken the ratchet off yet as I'm still waiting for the new one.  I was just curious to see how tight it would be, and was very surprised that it seemed to be just very gently nipped up. I didn't need to use anything to stop the mechanism turning when I undid it. Here is a photo of it (sorry if it's a bit dark.)  I assume that thing behind the nut, with a kind of dished appearance, is probably some kind of tab washer/lockwasher.  I might take it off tomorrow to have a look at it. I should be getting a new one with the new ratchet.

I don't have a torque wrench.  Would you say the nut should be just nipped up, fairly tight, pretty tight, very tight, or swinging on it tight, or what?  I'm guessing maybe pretty tight?

Phil

[Phil C]

Sorry, here's the photo!  Phil

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Phil,

See my post above.  55/60 ft/lbs is very tight.  It would be a struggle to get this with a normal spanner and it would be easy to over do it and strip the thread with too long a lever so a torque wrench may be a good investment.
I am not sure if torque figures for the B40 are available.

Dave.

[Phil C]

Hmmm...thanks Dave. Torque wrenches are pretty expensive, esp as I'd only use it once in a blue moon. Out of interest, why does it need to he so very tight?  Phil

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Phil,

I suppose it needs to be very tight because it is under load when kickstarting and it locates the main shaft.  It is probably the same torque as the rotor mounting nut with the clutch centre nut being a bit higher.  You would not want these coming loose with the potential damage that could be caused.
The A65 manual lists 18 torque settings for everything from oil pump nuts to rotor nut and head bolts/nuts.
I would imagine that there are torque settings for the B40F but where to find them I do not know.  Do Rupert Ratio's books include any?  It is surprising how easy it is to over tighten smaller nuts and bolts were a torque setting is given.  Form example carb flange nuts should only be 10 ft/lbs which is not a lot and easily exceeded.

Dave.

[Phil C]

The Haynes unit singles workshop manual (at p. gives torch wrench settings but doesn't distinguish between the various models of bike (and on the same page gives capacities for various models but doesn't even include the B40.) The torque setting it gives for the kickstart ratchet nut is 50/55 lb f ft. (clutch centre nut 60/65.).   Phil

[Phil C]

Page number in previous post should be 8. Don't know where the emoji came from. 
Rupert Ratio (vol.1, p.250) confirms 50-55 ft/lbs for all sidepoints models ( which mine is.)
Phil

[Phil C]

Any recommendations for a torque wrench? Without spending a bomb.  Phil

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Not sure of good a make of torque wrench these days as I have had mine for over 40 years and paid £5 second hand.  I would imagine that a mid range priced one would be good enough so £30 to £40.  Some one else may come up with a suggestion for a reasonable make.  Once you have one you will use it for the recommended settings were stated and wonder why you didn't get one before.

Dave.

[PeteRae]

I've bought mine from machine mart over the years...as Dave says, probably that kind of money....only problem with torque wrenches is that they have to be kept in calibration...if you drop them or knock them, thats them out of cal.
If you use extensions or long sockets you have to work out the change in torque...its a chuffing pain.
Unless you're working with alloy nuts, bolts and threads, personally, I don't bother with a torque wrench. You get a feel for it.
Have you got a wee compressor Phil? Get a windy gun to help crack nuts off and nip them up adequately....I've not stripped a thread yet after 40 plus years of spannering.
Just my opinion bud.
Pete.