A10 S/A forks

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I remember along time back when I fell off my first BSA.  When I stood it up the handle bars and wheel were out of line.  The impact had probably caused the fork legs to twist in the yolks.  Unlike with a bicycle I could not twist it back.  So, thinking that the force that twisted it applied in the opposite direction will untwist it ,I found a lamp post and bashed the wheel against it until it was all straight again and went home.  I was only 17 so deserve forgiveness. 
The point being that the legs can twist in the yolks and if they are only just being nipped by the taper in the top yolk and the clamps in the bottom then you could get the movement you are finding.
Straw clutching I know but could the stanchion be marginally undersize but came with matched bushes?
A second pair of hands may be able to detect a bit of movement when the twist is applied.   

Dave.

[craigc11g]

are the tubes the correct length and not over extended , you say the flex is central which makes me think this , it does sound more than i would expect

[RESTORER]

Hi all, with the fork legs off again I made more notes:
1/ The top and bottom yokes are the same distance apart O/S and N/S. 2/ When the fork legs are assembled, without the springs, fully closed and the spindle inserted, the tops of the fork shafts are level. 3/ The tapered bores are free of paint and when the shafts are inserted into the top yoke, they are the same distance from the top face, just under 1/8".  I forgot to look at this before I removed them.
When I removed the adjusting sleeve cap, I could see that if sideways pressure was applied to the bottom yoke, the adjusting sleeve did not move but it was possible to move the bottom yoke/centre shaft assembly inside the sleeve, although I don't think this could happen when the fork shafts are in position as it should be be a solid assembly.  Again I was stumped!  I rebuilt the whole front end and would you believe it I do not have any play in the steering  .  I don't believe I have done anything any differently but it has left me with three questions for anyone who can answer them please:
1/ Should there be a washer between the top yoke centre boss and the chrome cap, as there is between the other two bosses and the headlamp cowl?
2/ Should the three top bosses and the bottom yoke lower faces be free of paint (for differing reasons).
3/ Is there a definitive instruction for tightening the adjusting sleeve, even anything that equates to a small torque figure. Tapping the bars to see how easy they move from one end to the other is subjective to say the least. Thanks again for reading.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I have never seen a torque figure for the adjuster sleeve but one could be quite useful.  I find it is a bit of trial and error to get no play in the bearings and totally smooth movement of the steering.  I think the last time I did this job I adjusted it to feel a hint of resistance in the steering and backed it off a tiny amount to get it right and rechecking after tightening the clamp bolt.

Dave.