a10 plunger wet sumping

Started by chaz, 04 Jul, 2020, 16:16

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chaz

the bike has not been used for many years, started a couple of times a year but the wet sumping has never been this bad. took the sump off the other week, today I played about with the cast drain sump plate, in the process 850ml (1.5 pints) drained out of the sump.
changed the pressure valve ball and spring. not much room to fit a tap in the pipe line.
Ive got two options, an early, rough cast SRM and a modern polished one, how much longer do the studs need to be? currently I have two bolts and two studs all with washers and spring washers fitted..
and no time to strip the engine so replacing the spring and ball inside is out.
also, the original steel plate has filter mesh fitted, the new SRM filter plate is a bit of a fiddle to fit and the pipe hole is only just big enough so no room to move. and the original mesh holes are bigger, presumably will not cause a problem with smaller mesh?

Allan G

SRM advise using the ring end of a spanner around the tube to twist it to the optimal position in their literature.

The modern polished ones are better, I've had the threads go in the cast ones.

With the polished one you can get some aerotight nuts with thin flat washers on with the original studs. Use the aerotight so they won't shake loose.

chaz

thanks Allan
not heard about the spanner trick.
surprised that the thread has stripped on my SRM as its 1/2" BSW so a coarse thread, just tapped out to M14 x 1.25 to use a modern drain plug.
the modern one is still too thick to use the two studs Ive got so will turn up some new ones.