88SA ignition switch

[Phil C]

Good morning all,  I'm considering buying an 88SA ignition switch (post-'62, to take separate socket, which has short wires with bullet connectors which then connect to the loom at snap connectors.) I'm wondering if it will be easy to fit the switch to the tinware. My tinware, near the oil tank (1965 B40F) has a hole, roughly 3/4" dia, but not very round (see pic.)  How does the switch fit on the tinware?   Phil.

[JulianS]

Someone has enlarged the hole. The original is shaped to take the threaded portion of the switch, including the flattened part so that it does not rotate when switch operated. The hole in the headlamp nacelle for the light switch is the same shape.

[Phil C]

So it won't fit as it is?

[JulianS]

How does your redundant original ignition switch fit in the hole?

[Phil C]

I don't have the complete redundant switch, just the socket, which has been hidden under the seat.

[Phil C]

Maybe I could put the correct size and shape hole in a small piece of sheet steel and fix that in place over the too- big hole with a couple of small bolts ( or splash out on some pop rivet pliers.)

[JulianS]

That is worth trying.

[Phil C]

Looking at the switches online, I can see that the hexagon will locate on the flat(s) in the hole to stop it turning. But what holds the switch in position on the tinware?

[JulianS]

Just the nut.

[Blackthou]

Sounds like you still have your enthi=usiasm and are doing a grand job. I'd be inclined to make an adapting plate as you said and secure with bolts. IMO it would look more period than rivets. If you made the plate out of stainless it would look like an enhancement rather than a repair, again IMO.

[Pete A10]

I think your best bet Phil is to make a plate with the hole the right size. Rather than bolting or riveting it why not use 2-pack epoxy glue (Araldite - yes I know it sounds like bodgery) to bond the plate to the inside of the valance out of sight - the switch can then be fitted in the correct position with no unsightly fixings. Alternatively make two plates with the outer one smaller than the bezel on the switch so that when you tighten up the large central nut it will clamp either side of the valance. I would still use epoxy even if I went with the two plates. Doing it this way, all the fixings are hidden and the switch will look as it should

[Phil C]

Update: I made two plates as Pete suggested. They seem to work fine, except by the time they are in place, plus the shiny base plate/ bezel, the amount of thread sticking out is reduced to the extent that the nut doesn't go on fully.  But I think it will be okay. I could leave out the shiny bit I suppose, but the nut would still not go fully on. Anyway I can think that over while I'm waiting for the socket to arrive. Also I can mull over whether to buy a little bit of stainless sheet and make the plates again from that, as the ones I've made are 18swg mild steel (the only sheet I had) and so might rust in time.  Phil

[Phil C]

But then as I recall drilling stainless using a handheld drill can be difficult, so maybe I'll just stick with the mild steel and give it a bit of paint.

[Blackthou]

Stainless is a right PITA to drill and can grab. How about a thin bit of aluminium or brass even, both of which could be painted - but then so could the steel. Only difference is the thickness I suppose.

[Pete A10]

This is probably a stupid question Phil, but does the inner plate sit full inside the recess punched in the valance without any gap between the two. Two pieces of 18swg is only about 2.5mm; plus the valance of say 1mm gives a thickness of 3.5 to 4mm. I believe the threaded section of the switch is about 15mm long so should be plenty if all the pates are tight against each other.