Instruction manual

Started by MGI, 20 Apr, 2020, 09:32

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JulianS

#15
The Gold Star part does not take a full width hub.

The fork bottoms you need are as in the photo below. They came from a 1958 A10, same parts as the 1958 B31/33.

JulianS

Rotating a fork bottom would present some problems.

The mudguard stay mount would be in front of the leg rather than behind.

You can see other problems from the cross section below.

There is a used pair on ebay at the moment.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-A7-A10-FORK-LEGS/164165870901?hash=item26390c6535:g:xhEAAOSwxOlemv7Z

MGI

Does this mean that (a) the Gold Star has the same part number as the units designed for the full width hub, or (b) the guy who responded to my request(accompanied by the correct part number) has made a mistake?

As it happens my front mudguard locates in the two holes below the pinch bolts so I think I could rotate the slider as the brackets half way up it are not used. However, obviously if there are left & right handed threads in the equation allied to the fact that the NOS slider I purchased should have a slot and will not mate to a full width hub whichever way it is orientated makes the whole problem insurmountable!

What heading should I search under to locate the ebay pair please?

JulianS

The Gold Star Clubman parts are 65 5420 for offside and 67 5057 for near side. Gold Str scramblers use different parts. The 42 5076 part number is unique to the 1958/59 A7/10 and B31/33 bikes with full width iron hubs. No part numbers on these parts so you have to identfy visually.

Click on the link in my earlier post to bring up the ebay items.

The point about reversing the slider is that the bottom lug for the spindle is not symetric to the slider but offset so you would struggle to get it to fit.

There are no left hand threads on the full width hub fork sliders.

MGI

Julian...A massive thank you for your assistance with the TLS project! I am increasingly impressed with your knowledge and experience in matters BSA. The bad news (from your perspective) is that I haven't even unscrewed a nut yet. I successfully bid for the pair of sliders you identified as the required units on fleabay and, hopefully, I will be able to return the previously purchased slider to its place of origin. Currently I am pondering as to whether it is necessary to remove all the top yokes etc as per the instruction manual, or whether it is possible to start at the other end and remove the sliders only - do you have any thoughts on this

Gratitude where due to the other members of the club who have also contributed to this discussion.

Sydney Carlton comes to mind!

JulianS

You will need to remove the fork leg complete to be able to change the slider. Which means removing the front mudguard. The oil seal holder can be tight especially if it has not been removed for a while.

MGI

I have now received the pair of fork sliders and they are in better condition than the NOS item I already purchased. Strangely both the first slider and the same one of the pair (O/S with square projection) are identical as far as I can tell, obviously the original is not for a Goldie as I was informed by the vendor. The recent acquisition has the letter S stamped on the face of the square projection, does this mean anything significant I wonder?

AdrianW

If I can add a few thoughts..
My 1954 B33 has the 8" half width hub,, This uses fork bottoms that are different again, the wheel spindle fits through the LHS and screws into the RHS leg. The hole in the LHS leg is larger than the RHS.. the bottom of each leg looks different, only one has a pinch bolt. Hard to explain but I don't have a photo handy...  Not sure exactly which brake you are trying to fit..

Removing the oil seal holders can be an issue. On my bike I was lucky, I could undo them by hand ! On a previously owned Ariel I had to use an oil filter strap wrench used carefully over the threaded part ..  Some are on so hard even the special tool may be difficult to operate..

Removing the legs.. As mentioned, the mudguard has to come off - you may need to raise the bike a fair way to allow it to drop, depending upon the type fitted..  Then just undo the two bolts in the lower fork holders. The legs may need a little persuasion to come down. On the other hand, when I was waggling the LHS one on my bike the RHS one fell out.......

Hope this helps..

Adrian
Bristol UK