(bsa b25 starfire poor starting

[MGILBERT]

Hi . Hoping someone can help, before i loose my rag and throw the teddy out of the pram.

I have a 1970 Bsa  B25 Starfire which is very difficult to start.i have a good spark, but its taking an age to prime the plug with petrol.
Carb fitted is Amal 928 concentric with all factory settings.
Carb has been rebuilt with new throttle slide,pilot air screw,throttle stop, the only item i have not replaced is the throttle needle.

I can take up to 25/30 kicks before its fires ,then running and restarting no problem.

When you remove the spark plug having primed/kicked you would expect the plug to be wet, not the case. Clutch adjusted so engine not slipping whist starting/running.
Yes the bike has been idle for a little while , so how can i improve the starting technique?

Bike performs well on the road, and very happy once its going

any advise would be helpful. cheers.

mike.

[Dean Southall]

Are you using the tickler?
It sounds like it might be too weak to start.
Are you holding the tickler down 'til you see fule comimg out of the vent beside it?

Good luck. I can really empathise with you havimg been there myself. Believe me, you will crack it with the help available on here and your currents frustarations will sonn be a distant memory pal.

[MGILBERT]

thanks dean for your input.
yes using the tickler, and fuel coming out.

regarding your other comment. to weak to start? it got me thinking , i have not cleaned the pilot jet which is situated behind the pilot air screw , so with that cleaned and re set could make the mixture richer. Hoping that make sense. bfn mike

[MGILBERT]

Well another afternoon in the garage with GOOD results i hope. Carb stripped and cleaned again but cleaning the pilot jet this time around, and then cleaned spark plug and reset, and then drained refilled system with new fuel.

Results. Now staring 3rd /4 the kick. Now just wants finer tuning to obtain a nice tick over etc. Bike pulls well.

[A10 JWO]

Did you clean the two very small pilot drillings with high pressure carb cleaner. Have a look at YouTube, those drillings always get missed, don't squirt it in your eyes when you do it.

[MGILBERT]

HI. When quirting  carb cleaner into the pilot air screw hole, fluid came out of those two small holes which are located in the base  of the carb. cheers

[MGILBERT]

HI.

Poor starting continues, when bike eventually fires up. it runs great on the road and sticks over well.

Question.
If i fit electronic ignition would it improve the starting of the bike.? any recommendations of maker

bfn

mike   

[LightningAndStarfire]

Electronic ignition will eliminate the ignition advance unit as a source of trouble. The need for a battery in top condition is perhaps even greater than for points though.

Even if you have a good spark seen this is perhaps not the case in the cylinder where the pressure is higher. I suggest you check the battery voltage at the coil. If possible try another coil before electronic ignition.

[Beesy]

Electronic ignition will help. I have the Wassell one on my Starfire. Easy to fit and works a treat. Starts 1st/2nd kick.

I've also noticed on mine that it needs 'a good flooding' on the carb. If I release the ticker as soon as fuel drips it wont start. I need to hold it down for a half second or so. Worth a try.

Trouble with this sort of thing is that it could be a number of things.

Keep us informed and good luck.

[LightningAndStarfire]

The tickler is an Amal Wonder thing. My A65 always started at first kick after a good tickling.

[AdrianS]

If you get fed up with the poor starting - I'll take the bike off your hands for a small fee!

Joking apart if the standard ignition set up is ok,starting should not be a problem . When I had one a few years ago, the bike started first or second kick. One component that often performs badly is the condenser (capacitor). I have changed them in the past and have been surprised the difference it made.
If does sound to be carb related. Have you checked the float level?
Go back to basics and check everything.

[Phil C]

Please let us know.

[LightningAndStarfire]

I agree about the condenser. Think it is a part that suffers from old age even if the machine hasn't been used. Which means that even NOS condensers should be treated with a shadow of a doubt.

Haven't seen any specifications about the capacitance for the Lucas condensers. Does anyone know?

[johnan]

From what I have read, "old " condensers seem to have a shelf life and new ones from our oriental friends often have no life at all, it seems, unless you are lucky.

Some years ago, certainly with cars, aftermarket electronic ignition systems were looked on with a bit of suspicion because of the doubt of the electronics reliability..."you are better off with points and condenser, dead reliable" used to be the mantra. Unfortunately with unreliable condensers floating about this is no longer true.  And rotor arms too can give trouble, with electronic systems or not.

My old Midget has electronic ignition but I carry a complete conventional, tested, distributor in the boot along with a strobe timing light should I need to change it when out on the road.

Trying a different condenser couldn't do any harm, preferably perhaps a German or British one if you could be sure it didn't come from the far east.

[LightningAndStarfire]

I noticed that Lucas has taken up condensers for classics. https://www.lucasclassicmotorcycle.com/prod_details.html?sa=LU4