A65 Lightning project......

[geraldhattrick75]

OK,  I've manged to remove the tube and guess what? No crud.

Glad I did it though, at least I know that it is clean. (Can't have been used much since BSA put it together)

Again, many thanks.


PS I feel I've been denied the satisfaction of scraping out the crud...... A letter of complaint to BSA methinks...

[chaz]

if you dont have an air line, try a oil can and squirt oil through the oil way to make sure they are clear, otherwise I use long series drills.

[geraldhattrick75]

I'm ok re the air line Chaz.... as the wall behind the bench I'm working at can attest......

I'm now looking at getting a new sludge trap tube due to my exuberance while levering the original out.
I've seen one on eBay:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-A65-and-late-A10-crankshaft-sludge-trap-tube-67-1220/283454756352?epid=1848440999&hash=item41ff385600:g:EL4AAOSwMmBV3HOb

only problem is that the original has two holes one side and one larger hole on the other side, while the eBay (SRM) jobbie has 4 small holes on one side.

Is this a suitable item do you know? (mind I've heard that some of the triumph tubes will fit too......)

[Bess]

Hi,
    Here's an example of one I prepared earlier:

[geraldhattrick75]

Wow Bess, that's a lot of crud and to be honest it's kinda what I expected to see on mine- as opposed to this (the black stuff on the tissues is pretty much everything that came out):

[JulianS]

Your sludge trap tube is the later pattern with the radiused small end. The one on the ebay link you posted has a plain small end.

This one looks more like the one you already have, but if in doubt I would phone SRM to confirm which one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-A65-Triumph-T120-T140-Sludge-trap-tube/282343724222?hash=item41bcff54be:g:o9IAAOSwImRYj06k

[geraldhattrick75]

Right then, as you said, that was the correct sludge trap and I now have one in my grubby mitts (very grubby actually...)

I was just going to ask about orientation- then I realised that the location bolt suggests quite clearly which way round it should go.

Thanks again.

Let the bottom end rebuild commence......

Dave.

[JulianS]

This service sheet explains your crankshaft.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks Julian, very clear. I've followed the appropriate instructions and now have the sludge trap in place- all three crank bolts now Loctited and torqued to 44 ft/lb.

And you'd think that after receiving all your advice I wouldn't have the temerity to ask even more questions- which just goes to show how wrong you all can be...

I now have the crankshaft in the timing side and am looking at how I might best place the new type ball thrust bearing inner ring (thin and chamfered for the balls to fit) into the actual bearing, which is in place in the crankcase. (I could wallop it in with a large tube  and hammer- but feel that this would almost certainly cause damage)

Also, I can't get the oil pump worm drive onto the crankshaft thread. (It won't slide down the shaft to the thread...)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (Can you try to avoid using the word 'eejit' if possible please. I will fully understand if you do have to use it though)

Many thanks, Dave. 

[JulianS]

Make sure the ball thrust bearing is in the right way around - the nylon ring to the inside the balls fully exposed to the outside. The wrong way around an the thrust race does not seat properly in the outer race. The outer part of the inner race should just slide into place.

You may need to gently screw the worm anticlockwise onto the crank before the threads engage.

[geraldhattrick75]

Once again Julian... THANKS- that's exactly what I needed to know. (Think I've got my ball race the wrong way round)

Tell me if I'm overdoing the questions...

Best regards,
Dave

[chaz]

dont worry Dave, it comes to us all. Im rebuilding a B40 motor, crank in lovely movement , made sure the oil flowing where it should, oil pump intab washer bent..then got the cam shaft and realised the new bush had not been reamed!!
had to strip again, then thught....did I or didnt I.....clean the sludge trap. couldnt remember so hey ho here we go again.
double checked and I must have done it, no sludge in....unless the chap who fitted the big end/con rod and line bored the bush did it for me.
#still, its donenow ready to rebuild...again

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks Chaz, that's very reassuring.....


On the other hand, after 4 pages I'm still just starting the bottom end re-build....(I sometimes wake up in the middle of the night having dreamt that I was holding the cam and looking at an otherwise fully assembled bottom end......)


 

[ChrisG]

That is so easily done as when we are so excited that we have finally got the endfloat just right, we are too keen to get the cases back together before something in there changes its mind!

[geraldhattrick75]

Right, the crankcase halves are together (complete with camshaft) and the cam timing is set up correctly, but as I'm in the process of smoothing and polishing the timing side middle cover, I'm kinda finished on that side for a while, therefore I'm now looking at the drive side...

A couple of issues are: the electrical wiring (2 wires) from the stator have been really badly insulated with some awful Black sticky goo in place of proper insulation and the bare wires exiting the stator are as good as touching. I'm going to clean it all up, re solder new insulated wires and run them in a sleeve through the exit tube- but was wondering what the resistance should be between the two conductors?..... They're reading about 0.4 ohms as far as I can make out.

The other thing is that the gearbox sprocket is knackered (hooked). It has 21 teeth and I'm wondering if I should be looking at buying a direct 21 tooth replacement.
It is going to be rebuilt as a clubman, which it may have been while being used in the factory but, given that it is running a standard 68-473 cam, would that gearing be worth sticking to?

Hope I'm not asking too many questions.....

Dave