A65 Lightning project......

[geraldhattrick75]

I'll be very interested in this potential problem too Mike.

Thanks,
Dave.

PS Correct bearing now on its way...... Thanks guys.

[Bess]

Hi,
     The carb cutaway in the tanks is generally needed for a twin carb head, however it does depend on the style of tank you choose, the 2 gallon tank doesn't.

Best wishes.. 

[Mike Farmer]

 
Hi Bess. Thanks for that info. I suppose if you put cans on instead of the Beesa filters it would be OK. then comes the mixture probs.

Finally oil filter fitted. Its only taken 16 months.

Mike

[Bess]

Hi Mike,
            The cutaway is for the top of the carbs not the filter. The filter issue is resolved by redesigned side panels. if you need images let me know I have a 2 gal and 4 gal tanks.

Good news regarding the filter.

Best wishes...

[DerekAnderson8]

yes that is correct mike, different cutaway underneath tank for lightning etc

[Mike Farmer]

 

In truth its way past being a problem for me as I sold the head about 5years back. As the subject was under consideration the query was more a general one. But thanks anyway its "live and learn" Fortunately always something new.

Mike

[geraldhattrick75]

Er, regarding the sludge traps, I hadn't realised that the 3 bolts actually hold the flywheel on the crank.
Is it necessary to remove that or can the oilways be cleaned with the flywheel in place.

So far, after putting some light oil down the three sludge trap bolt holes and blowing through with an air hose, I can only get air coming out of the crank end bolt hole (timing side)

What is the best/ easiest way to clear the oil ways please?

Thanks,
Dave.

[JulianS]

The top bolt holds the sludge trap, it has a plain extension. The other 2 just hold the flywheel. The sludge can be almost solid and need scraping out of the tube and the crank. The tube can be a bit tight to pull out.

[Bess]

Hi,
    You need to remove 1 bolt from the flywheel nearest to the big ends it locates the trap tube, remove the sludge trap plugs then the sludge trap tube.

Clean the trap and component parts thoroughly.

I always remove and replace all flywheel bolts, their thrust washers and replace the plugs with hex type.

Best wishes...

[JulianS]

I had a bad experience when a flywheel bolt fractured and wrecked the bottom end of the engine so I am with Bess about replacing them.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for that Bess and Julian, it gives me a much better idea of what I'm looking at and what I need to do.

There's no substitute for experience is there?....


Again, many thanks, I really do appreciate all the help I'm getting from you.


Dave.

[geraldhattrick75]

Wow, they're not cheap are they... £25.50 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/68-0580-1-High-tensile-flywheel-bolt-kit-BSA-A10-Large-journal-BSA-A65-A50/273525609935?hash=item3faf6595cf:g:kx0AAOSwC8Zb0fhi

Does anyone know where they can be obtained at a more, er, reasonable price?

[chaz]

you are looking at ones from the specialist BSA people SRM. as with anything these are originality and all tests carried out. you might buy cheaper but will you get the quality.
If you got an engineering company to make them it would probably cost minimum charge of £40 or thereabouts.

[geraldhattrick75]

Right then I've located the sludge trap (I removed the crankshaft by judicious use of cunning and a rubber mallet) and removed the 'hex' screw (part of the 1970 BSA factory rebuild I guess) and the trap looks really clean. Some dirty oil but no signs of any solids.

I haven't been able to remove the tube though. I've managed to move it out about 1/4 inch (no damaging forces involved) but it refuses to come any further. I can see it clearly through the flywheel bolt hole and the tube hole is uppermost- which I would think is correct.

Given that there is no sign of any sludge or solids, that the tube looks really clean and that I have washed through with WD40, is it still worth removing the tube?


I know I keep saying it but honestly, thank you for all your help....
Dave.

[ChrisG]

Beware! I thought that when I took mine out on the Royal Star. The sludge fills up the space between the outside of the tube and the inside of the hole in the crank. This is as the makers intended, out of harms way etc. This probably why it doesn't want to just slide out.
All I did to remove the tube was poke a small screwdriver down the hole on the flywheel and lever it sideways enough to get thin nose pliers on the end and pull it out.
When removed, you may see an arc of crud. Easy to tap and scrape out and very satisfying when you have done it.
Chris