A65 Lightning project......

[chaz]

best to while you have the chance.. peace of mind.
started the rebuild of the B40 yesterday,crank in,cases bolted up. THEN casually reading Ruperts book , he says to squirt oil through the oilways to make sure its getting to the timing side bush, today, took apart....all ok!! bolted back up again. glad I checked.

[geraldhattrick75]

Yes, I'll definitely get stuck in on it.....

Mind, I think I might have a problem with my new main roller bearing in so far as the new inner race can be fitted from either side of the outer ring (ie can be pushed through the outer ring completely). Meaning that the crank has no end on support and therefore no real end float preventer that I can see.

[geraldhattrick75]

Not sure if I can send pictures which might explain things better....

[geraldhattrick75]

New bearing:

[geraldhattrick75]

Old bearing:

[geraldhattrick75]

New bearing:

[JulianS]

The usual roller bearing is a single lipped type as your original.

MRJA 1 1/8 type is the single lipped bearing rather than MRJ 1 1/8 you have which is a non lipped bearing.

Could you post a photo of the timing side ball bearing setup, it sounds interesting.

[geraldhattrick75]

The usual roller bearing is a single lipped type as your original.

MRJA 1 1/8 type is the single lipped bearing rather than MRJ 1 1/8 you have which is a non lipped bearing.

Damn, that means I'm going to have to talk nicely to the seller and see if he does a non fully- floating jobbie (MRJA as you mentioned)

Could you post a photo of the timing side ball bearing setup, it sounds interesting.

Unfortunately I haven't got an extractor tool for removing the (rather mucky still) timing side oil pump gear drive, so I haven't been able to remove the crank from the crankcase.......

I trust you cleaned out the sludge trap and oil ways in the crank if you are using it again??

Well I had a bash (literally) at the sludge trap bolts today Chaz..... What are they torqued up to? And are they normal direction screw threads?

I couldn't budge them. (and I don't wan't to be buggering up all the good work that the shoulder surgeon did on my right shoulder)

Incidentally I noticed that my kickstart ratchet drive is looking pretty burred.....

[geraldhattrick75]

kickstart ratchet drive gear:

[chaz]

sludge trap screws not normally torqued, they are as tight as could be done THEN one or two centre punch marks to lock in place. As this deforms the tops of the thread on the screw thats why they are tight. Normally an impact driver and a good bolster should loosen. should be no need for Loctite or sealing fluid, BUT if the previous build used any then a gentle source of heat should help.

standard right hand thread

[chaz]

can you get a thin flat blade screwriver behind the oil pump gear> working around with a gentle tap every 90 or 120 degrees helps.
as for the kick start, they are normally like that, play in various parts does not help. you could, if apart, dress off with a file otherwise I have seen worse.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for all that Chaz, it's all very reassuring.

I'll get SWMBO to hold the crancases while I 'wallop' the sludge traps ever so slightly. (She'll then be able to understand why I might just have to put the crankcase in the oven, should the bolts prove to be difficult..... I'll get her to take the roast taters and Turkey out first.... Obviously)

[JulianS]

Your timing side bearing will be a combined needle roller and ball thrust race, similar to the SRM and earlier Devimead end feed conversions. SRM bearing shown below. Second photo shows the 2 piece inner race of the bearing - yes the track for the ball thrust race is worn.

The ball thrust race locks the crankshaft in position so there is no axial movement (unless it is worn) so dont shim the crank because the engineering of the conversion will have set its location and unnecessary shimming can cause location problems.

If you attempt to lever the pinion off just be careful you dont damage the locating collar behind it.

When refitting the sludge trap plug the BSA workshop manuals recommend using loctite to secure it, only using a hammer and punch if loctite not available.

[chaz]

When refitting the sludge trap plug the BSA workshop manuals recommend using loctite to secure it, only using a hammer and punch if loctite not available.

funny, every BSA crank Ive seen has been centre punched. many on standard big end size. I used to ferret around breakers like Michael Freeman, British Iron, Charlies and many more always on the look for goodies. even the 3 Square 4's had them punched.

[Mike Farmer]

 

I don't know if this is either of interest or relevant but I intended to put a twin carb head on a recent rebuild/resto only to find that my petrol tank would not go on. I have no knowledge of this but understand that a twin carb head needs a tank with cutaways to take the air filters.

Is this correct?/

Mike