1932 W32-6 SV - Garage find - Magneto issue

[David Samways]

Hi Pat and Joe - Having taken a good look at the parts book and listed out all the components for the rear wheel - I think the critical bits I are as follows:

24-6851 Hub distance piece - this looks like it should go on the brake side and appears to be present on you machine.
15-6743 Adjusting sleeve - this is for adjusting play in the bearings and appears to be present on the sprocket side of your machine - which I think is the correct position.
24-6994 Adj sleeve locknut - this also looks like it's present on your machine - difficult to tell though.
24-6805 Adjusting plate (snail cam) x 2 - this might be present on the sprocket side but it looks more like a bodged spacer. On the brake side it looks like it's missing and also has a bodged spacer in its place.

I can scan the page if you don't have a copy of the parts book.

David

[David Samways]

I think your front brake cable should come to the front adjuster position. If you look in the parts book you'll see it's a solid rod to the front brake.

[compacthack]

Hi everyone,

So an update on the W32-6 Garage find project

After a stack more work the old bike fired up tonight and My Son was able to take it up and down the back lane (private property of course).

Some of the jobs that have been done since last post:-

* Modify a M20 Clutch pressure plate so it would with the W32 clutch housing
* Manufacture clutch compressing tool
* Source a substitute clutch spring (couldn't find the real thing)
* Reassemble clutch
* Shorten exhaust valve & set tappet clearance
* Set valve timing
* Mount magneto and set position correctly with shims.
* Set magneto timing & points gap
* Fit front brake, clutch, ignition timing, valve lifter cables
* Get rear brake working, fit return spring.
* Fit new fuel tap & fuel line
* Made spacers for gearbox & engine mounts
* Install washers on back wheel axle to substitute missing snail cam on RHS otherwise brake calipers would bind on an angle, need to source snail cam
* Fix oil pressure regulator & pump, was full of gunk & wound so tap had no effect at all.

This has kept Joe nice and busy since last post.

The main issue now is the clutch, it slips when trying to kick start and You hit a compression stroke. So the starting method has been: put it in gear, clutch in, de-compressor open,  push bike, release clutch, get engine turning, release de-compressor, keep pushing & she fires up.

Because we couldn't source a real clutch spring we substituted a spring that fitted into the pressure plate ok but may not be providing enough force onto the clutch, the clutch does feel light on the clutch lever when pulled in, but We have no idea what a real clutch should feel like.

Has anyone got any ideas were we could source the spring to suit ? We tried a M20 spring but it was way to big to fit into the clutch assembly.

But we are super excited with the progress & getting Her fire up, probably the 1st time in easily 30-40 years.

We have ordered some BSCY nuts and bolts to get the tank mounted correctly, need to fashion up a knob for the gear level, get a brake light working, fit a small digital pushbike speedo, fit oil pressure gauge & then see if We can get a Club Permit issued to allow road use !

Can't wait.

Here are a couple of more recent photos.

Cheers, Pat & Joe

[David Samways]

Looking good!

[compacthack]

Hi Guys,

So the bike passed the safety inspection and Joe picked up His permit so it can be ridden on the road.

Here is a brief video, https://photos.app.goo.gl/82iQR9T9xDzsHZha6

I've taken it for a couple of rides and it is great fun, a real experience. The gear control rod & arm is very warn so selecting gears is a bit of a job while riding & not quiet idling yet.

Which has caused a few stalls when coming up to traffic lights, roll to the side of the road, get it back into 2nd or 1st, push start when the light changes, jump on and away it goes.

The gearbox itself has nice positive gear changing & I'm sure if we reduce the slop in the connecting rod and arm / arm and tank gear lever it will improve conk out factor.

So not a cruisey / relaxing ride at the moment but a real buzz to take it out on the road, a real head turner as You steam by people.

We have been able to kick start it after Joe did some extra work on the clutch, replaced 3 more friction plates and roughened up the drive plate surfaces.

The bolt that holds the cush drive to the crankshaft did come loose on a short trip to the supermarket, was able to tighten up while in the back of a pub, but have to work out how to stop it from coming undone.

Cheers,

Pat & Joe

[BEVANC]

Well done   Sounds great.

Re the the cush drive nut coming loose - is there not a tab washer of some sort ?

Cheers, Bevan

[David Samways]

There's no tab - if we're talking about the central sleeve nut that secures the cush-drive and sprocket assembly to the crankshaft taper. It shouldn't come loose since the keyway and the taper should be enough to make sure that nothing can move. If there was any movement this should tighten the nut. Try a bit of Loctite if you're worried about it and make sure it's tight.

It looks and sounds great BTW.

[compacthack]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for that, the old bike does have a great note !

The cush drive doesn't have a tab washer fitted, I might have a quick look at the parts list. I did see that the M20 may have a tabbed washer.

It seems that its the inner bolt that holds the cush drive assembly to the crankshaft is coming loose not the big outer nut that compresses the spring on.

Maybe if we make a strange shaped tabbed washer that can fold over into the outer nut and also all the way over and push against one of the flats bolt that goes into the crankshaft. Or Loctite it on like David recommends (Loctite 222 ?). Just might be a pain If we ever have to get it off.

Its a bit hard to get the inner bolt really tight as it tries to turn the engine over and back wheel, Is there anyway to lock the crankshaft while the bolt is tightened ? Or just get a long arm on a socket and give it a couple of taps.

Attached is a photo,

Cheers,

[berniej]

Could you get a grip on the castellations with a chain wrench or possibly large set of stillsons to hold it steady?

Also, just noticed, have you got your primary chain removable link clip on the wrong way round?

Cheers,
Bernie

[compacthack]

Hi Bernie,

Thats a great idea to grip on to the castellations, we don't have a chain wrench so maybe the large stillsons with a rag or alliminium strips on the castellations so the stillsons don't tear them up?

Oh yeah, thanks for noticing the removable link, must have been in the mad rush to get the chain covers on for the inspection! Will swap it around before the next voyage out.

Cheers,

[adamtomasr]

Hello,

Could you help me?

I'm restoring a 1932 BSA 350 B.S and it fits the same backstay that your one.

Could you tell me the measurement between the hols to the chainstay and seat suport. See picture please.

Thanks in advance

[compacthack]

Hey Adam,

Very sorry for the late reply, haven't been back to this forum for a while, to busy enjoying lockdown !

Joe and I measured up the backstay in question on Joe's bike, here are the photos.

We make it out approx 337mm or 13" 5/16 ?

If You need anymore measurements or photos taken, please let us know.

So your bike is missing this backstay ? can you source or will You need to manufacture ?

Cheers,

Pat & Joe

[adamtomasr]

Thanks!!

[morven21]

Regarding your grease nipples, modern ones fit straight in. Then u can use your modern gun.Did this on mine, works a treat.