oil feed 1 way valve

Started by elevensies, 02 Feb, 2019, 12:36

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elevensies

Im following on from another thread about oil priming, and before i fill with oil, i have seen one way valves advertised on ebay, to overcome wet sumping.

any thoughts on these please, and would you recommend 2?

thanks

mark

berniej

Hi,

I've resisted the temptation to fit these due to concerns about what might happen so have no direct experience - just worries!
It will be good to hear experiences of others that use them but my concern was that if the valve jams/gums up/fails closed then unless you have an oil pressure gauge there will be no indication until damage is done.

I believe that they rely on a pressure difference across the valve to pull it open and so my other (theoretical) concern is that if there is air in the line between the valve and the pump due to the oil leaking through the pump then the pump might not be able to generate sufficient suction to open the valve and prime itself.

So far my preference has been to either accept I need to drain the sump before starting or to fit a tap in the line and do whatever I can to ensure I never forget to open it!

Cheers,
Bernie

'49 M21/B31 hybrid
'56 M21 combination
B40 Super Star
A50CC project

Old Biker

Hi 11's
My brother has a manual tap in the line to stop wet sumping and he has wired in a connection that stops the bike from being able to run with the tap closed - like me he is old and we can be prone to being forgetful  :)

elevensies

haha thanks guys,

i think i will leave it and fit manual ones on the rubber hose, i guess just inline fuel taps will do the trick
ahhh maybe the hole needs to be bigger, maybe fuel taps are no good??


berniej

Funnily enough this was being discussed on another topic quite recently - try 8mm ball valve taps - plumbers merchants/screwfix/ebay have them. 8mm copper pipe should fit well in your hoses. They just need 90 degree rotation to turn on/off which makes it quite easy to operate if you can only get one finger onto the tap lever.

Cheers,
Bernie
'49 M21/B31 hybrid
'56 M21 combination
B40 Super Star
A50CC project

elevensies

been on the search this morning for a tap, and my initial thought was a inline fuel tap, but after sizing up the largest i could find the center home was only about 4 or 5mm,

so iv made up a fitting, but it looks clumsy,


anyone have any pics of theirs please

ANDY HIGHAM

An radical alternative solution to the problem
Most BSA's have an anti wet sump valve fitted on the pressure side of the oil pump, why not clean and reseat the ball?
Anything fitted on the suction side of the pump is a wrecked engine in waiting

ducati2242

I know a guy with a norton who has had an inline tap in his oil feed line for 20 odd years never forgot in 20 years to turn it on . Until last year whilst out for a day run forgot about it after lunch stop . Remarkably he got a further 5 miles before the vibration got overwhelming . 2K later hes back on the road minus said tap . New everything and no wet sumping .
1956 bsa GS DB500
1968 mk1 Rocket 3
2006 ducati 999R .

CAS.VANDERWOUDE

I think all the reasons put here for not installing a one way valve (anti wet-sump valve) apply equally to the stock valve don't they?  The stock valve is a ball bearing held by a small spring.  The chances of loss of prime, gunk fouling the valve etc could happen just as easily with the original filter.

While it is clearly more desirable to re-seat the original ball, this is not possible on all models and sometimes, the ball just will not re-seat no matter what.  If installing a new valve, it would make sense to remove the original ball and spring if possible...

I have a mind to manufacture one fitted with new oil lines and ready to fit.  I see the bare valves online for $50 and more which is about twice the prices they should be.  Any thoughts?

Mike Farmer

 :)

I have a "one way" valve in my A50 oil pipe-----No Problems. And it works well

I'm about to fit one in an A65 currently in the build stage.

Mike 8) 8) 8)

gvmv@aol.com

I'm confused, do I need to fit 2 valves in the system, feed and return line, or just the feed line?  The oil drains right out of the tank to the sump.

DAVE BRADY

Hi,

If you go down this route just in the feed line.  If you search the Forum there was similar thread and reference to a tap that has a switch built in and the name of the supplier.

Dave.

V500

Later Velocettes had a ball-and-spring check valve screwed into the bottom of the oil tank to prevent drain down. It looks neat and original plus it has a BSP thread on the top. Worth a look?
Those plumbers red or blue tap handles look awful.

Mike40M

A automatic valve in the feed line as used on Velocette needs care when changing oil so the pump don't suck air. They sometimes leaks over time so you still have to empty sump. Velos benefits from replacing the steel ball with a plastic ball. Know that a roller/ball bearing bike can run 10 miles before a slight piston seizure, with a manual tap closed. Less with plain bearing engines. So a tap with a electrical switch is a good idea. There are variants for both magneto and coil ignitions.
Usually only one tap is needed as return pipe end in the tank is above oil level. Unit singles which has a one direction valve after the pump don't suffer from wet sumping if it don't leak and the pump don't leak. The one direction valve fitted in the engine return suction, could prevent the small amount in return pipe and head feed going down, if working. More on a B40WD fitted with an oil filter.

cornishbob

i use similar on my sportster. it work on mine, this is straight from downtown fleabay