A65 Thunderbolt Buying hints and Tips

Started by Csx355, 06 Oct, 2018, 15:19

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Csx355

Hi all - I have an opportunity to swap out a couple of my flock for a non-running (due to being laid up??) fibre-glassed tank A65. I am doing this at arms length and probably will not get to see the bike in person before agreeing to any deal. 

I have swapped a few bikes with the BSA's  present owner in the past and based on that am happy that his intentions and integrity is sound. That aside the bike could well be in need of lots of motor work which I have to assume is the case. I have asked for a compression test.

Never having had a Unit twin BSA before are there any glaringly obvious things that someone with first hand experience can suggest that I should check out prior to pressing the button?  Thanks in advance.
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A10 JWO

Bought one last year and did a complete restore. I would pull the engine right down and fit new sludge trap. I had all my crank cases aqua blasted prior to rebuild. Valve guides will no doubt need doing. The engine will probably need shimming when it's rebuilt !. The bikes are solid and heavy and a pleasure to work on. I got loads of small plastic bags and labelled everything. You can get all the bolt sizes from Draganfly website and order them from somewhere like South Essex Fasteners 1/5th of the price. Easy to re-wire and Lucas looms can be obtained, about £50. I spent £1,000's and the bike looks new. Started 2nd kick, unfortunately health issues have only allowed me to cover 1 mile, so it's sat in the garage. Get a proper BSA workshop, not cheap but it has everything you need in it. If the motor is intact try to re-commission and start it up, may be ok ?. Keep the questions coming. Good luck.

bikerbob

You don't say what year your A65 is but be aware that BSA did a lot of modifications to the A65 so when ordering spares check that you are getting the right parts for the particular model year for your bike also you say it has a fibreglass tank that may not be compatible with modern fuels which now have Ethanol in it.

Csx355

Hi guys many thanks for the replies as I said this is going to be a bit of a punt for me.  Basically if the swap comes off I am making room in the garage and not investing a big wedge of cash in something. The bike would also sit nicely along side my T140 and Atlas although my preference would be an A10.

My intention is to just tidy the bike up and run it out occasionally. The bike appears to have been a Thunderbolt dressed up as a Spitfire, but I am no expert. The engine number is in the high 1400's. It's definitely single carb but looks like there was a Rev counter that is now absent. Mudguards look odd / wrong with the front being particularly ugly. Pretty sure that the bike didn't have the swept back front pipes and Goldie style silencers from new as well!!

Having said all that it is not being sold to me as an original show stopper but  I  do think that there is a pretty bike under there somewhere and I have to admit that the alloy rims are making me fizz a bit as is the attraction of a single carb 650 twin. Here are some pics let me know what you think and what the pitfalls of owning a 650 unit twin can be.


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bikerbob

Quite a nice looking bike on first glance it looks it has been modeled on a 1967 Spitfire engine and frame numbers will confirm the true identity as to the mudguards they do look like the correct mudgurds but not fitted  correctly the back one is too far away from the tyre maybe the rear suspension units are to long, the rear light is wrong and the head light should have chrome covers at the top with lugs to hold the headlight and there should be winged bades fitted to the side panels of course the exhausts and silencers are not original. But if you just want a bike to ride then just get it roadworthy and enjoy it i would'nt mind owning it.

Ken Oaff

if it hasn't had a bearing conversion done you need to factor this cost into the equation

Csx355

A little more digging and I think that the motor - not sure about the frame yet - is an A65 Star possibly 1964/65. I am confidently expecting a mongrel but a part of me doesn't mind that as I have been bogged down solid on some one my previous bikes trying to maintain a modicum of originality. It will be refreshing to have 'period' rather than perfect.

Quote from: bikerbob on 09 Oct, 2018, 08:36
Quite a nice looking bike on first glance it looks it has been modeled on a 1967 Spitfire .   .   .   . But if you just want a bike to ride then just get it roadworthy and enjoy it i would'nt mind owning it.

Thank you these were pretty much my thoughts

Quote from: Ken Oaff on 09 Oct, 2018, 21:04
if it hasn't had a bearing conversion done you need to factor this cost into the equation

Sorry Ken could you explain?
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bikerbob

I would think that what Ken is refering to is changing the timing side crankshaft bush for needle roller bearing but if the bike is running OK then forget about it think about it if you ever have to strip the engine down it is not essential I have been running my BSA's on the bushes for years without any problems,some people think they are important but many people still run on the bushes it is a mattter of personsl choice no doubt about it the bearings are vey good if done correctly and will probably last a lot longer than the bushes.

Csx355

Ah - good stuff  that makes sense - So  .   .   . 

Drain it - fill it - try and start it - take a position on the noises that it makes. Sounds like a plan.
BantamS - Work in Progress
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B44 Trail - Finished
B44 Road - Nearly Finished

bikerbob

When you say drain it I hope you mean drain all the fluids engine gearbox primary and fuel tank then top up with fresh then if it does happen to start first thing to check is oil flow remove oli tank cap and make sure you have a good return of oil, you say you have dealt with the present owner before so he will be able to tell you how long it has stood since it last ran hopefully not long.

ChrisG

Its definitely a 1964 or earlier model. The giveaways are the rear brake is on the RHSide, the extra cover on the primary cover for the spring adjuster and the speedo drive comes out of the gearbox.
The front mudguard is probably a pattern, is your front wheel a 19"? If its 18" then that's the problem as that mudguard is for a 19".
The rear mudguard looks like its been fitted direct to the frame. There should be a rearward wrap around bracket. Take a look at any picture of a post 1965 bike and all will become clear.
Still, its a great bike to own and they ride really well.
All the best
Chris