Oil leak

[Phil C]

Or would I be wasting my time removing it?  Should I be able to tell if it's leaking just by looking at it in situ?  Or maybe as I've got this far I should go ahead and replace it.  Problems, problems... Decisions, decisions...    Please could I have some advice?      Phil.

PS where is AWJDThumper ? - haven't heard from him in some time.

[Phil C]

What if...(with my limited resources)...I get a piece of 1/8" brazing rod, make a hook on the end of it, hook it behind the seal, and pull.  Any possibility that would work? Would the seal be in too tight for that to work?   Phil.

[JulianS]

It should prise out easy enough with the rod you suggest or similar lever. Having dug down so far you should really replace it.

[Phil C]

Bles31's puller worked easily in the end - the problem was not the puller, it was me being over-cautious. Sorry, Bles31!  Anyway, the seal is out and looked to me (who knows nothing) okay. I wonder how obvious a leak would be when looking at the seal.

So I don't think the leak was at either of the two seals (the one behind the clutch and the one behind the gearbox sprocket.) So I guess I'll need to look elsewhere. But anyway, for now I'll now start putting the clutch etc back together again (I'll be in touch very soon!)  I might not have found the leak but it is a very good learning experience.

Thanks again so far.   Phil.

[Bles31]

No problem Phil.
The problem with your seal may not be visible to the naked eye. It may have worn or it may have aged and hardened to the point it is no longer elastic.
Either way , glad you got it out.

[Phil C]

Just checking something. I have now fitted a new oil seal behind the gearbox sprocket, put the sprocket back on, and refitted the rear chain split link.

When I fitted the oil seal I tapped it in to about 1/16", or maybe a bit less, maybe, say, about 1 mm, proud of the casing (the one I took out was a bit further in still, I'd say.)  Rupert Ratio says "When fitting this seal try to ensure that it is not pushed too far in towards the bearing, which may cause the lip to run off the end of the sprocket. If your engine has this seal retained by a circlip, ensure the seal is right up against the circlip. If no circlip is fitted  the seal should stand proud of the aluminium casing by 1/16"."

When I took the old one out, and fitted the new one, I didn't notice a circlip, but can't say I looked closely.  I assume that if there'd been one it would have been on the outside end (clutch end) of the seal, and therefore very obvious, rather than on the inside (bearing) end? So what I've done is okay?

What a worrier I am.    Phil.

[JulianS]

No circlip fitted for 1965 - you would have had to remove one to get the seal out and would have seen the groove into which it fits.

Later unit singles used a different seal with circlip

[Phil C]

Step by step, I slowly plod along. But very much enjoying it. I believe the six short countertsunk screws, which hold the circular plate (behind the clutch) have a reputation for being pretty tight when you try to undo them. Mine were (I used an impact driver on some of them.) So when I put the new ones in I'm thinking no loctite, not even the low strength stuff. Would that be right?  Phil.

[Phil C]

Me again. Please see photo. I took this apart to clean it up and put in new cush-drive rubbers. Just about to put it back on the bike when I noticed the hole inside the bore.  What's that for?  Should I have been lining it up with anything when I put the cush-drive back together?  Phil.

[JulianS]

Hole for the tag on lock washer.

[Phil C]

Ah, I see, thanks Julian. When I undid the (shouldered) nut, there was a plain thick washer, but no tab washer. I realised from Draganfly's parts diagram that it should have both, so I bought a tab washer.  Here it is, in the photo attached (the photo doesn't quite show the full length of the long tab.)  I assume the long tab goes in the hole, and the other two tabs fold against the nut?  Phil.

[JulianS]

Thats it Phil.

The tang sometimes breaks off when the nut is tightened and the lock washer moves.

I stopped using  lock washers on the A10 a few years ago and now just use loctite.

[Phil C]

I've now got my alternator, clutch, etc all back in place but have not yet refitted the casing. As it's the first time I've done something like this, I'm wondering if everything's okay. Is it worth me starting the bike without the chaincase cover on? Would there being no oil around the primary chain, clutch, etc be a problem? Also, might it help me in my search for the leak?  Phil.

[JulianS]

There would/should be no oil except that used when assembled.

Running without the case for a limited wont be a problem.

[Phil C]

Thanks Julian. Does that include engaging the clutch - would that be okay for a short time without the casing, ie without it running in oil?   Phil.