Alternator rotor lockwasher

[Phil C]

On the attached photo you can see(on the left)the shouldered nut, lockwasher and woodruff key that I took off my 1965 B40F when I removed the rotor. On the right is a new lockwasher, supplied by Draganfly. Comparing the new washer to the old one, both have an internal tab (presumably to fit in the keyway alongside the woodruff Key?), but the new one doesn't have an external tab. Should it have?

Phil.

[DON GRAY]

The washer should be big enough so that an edge of it can be bent up to lock the nut once its been torqued up tight. Check by popping it on the nut....You might need to persuade the edge up with a thin screwdriver....   

[JulianS]

The later BSA workshop manuals say use loctite as well. Good insurance.

[Phil C]

Okay, thanks Don, I think it's just about big enough to do that. Julian mentions using loctite as well.  What grade of loctite is right for this kind of use? The stuff I have is 222, which I think is for applications where you want to be able to undo it easily when the time comes, so for example I've used it on tank badge screws which I'll want to undo with a screwdriver. The alternator rotor nut needs to be pretty tight, but of course there will come a time when I might want to undo it without the need for heat. Which kind would be suitable for it?   Phil.

[DON GRAY]

I would go for a higher strength version maybe 648? I used some I liberated from work in a little jar that's still good & green in colour but cant remember the number of it!