7" tls brake

[Dabbist]

I've seen something similar to this on the forum, but I don't think it's quite the same.
I've fitted a 7"tls front brake to my B40 and I'm using a tr25w cable, which seems fine for length, plenty of adjustment left in it. BUT...
If I set the brake up so that the shoes are just touching with the lever at rest, I can easily pull it all the way to the handlebar with two fingers.
The wheel locks up on my man cave floor, with very little movement of the lever, but i can't test it realistically as it doesn't have the engine in yet.
I've thought of shortening the actuator arm, but the geometry will only allow me to do so by 10 or 15mm before things start fouling and the cable run gets too kinky.
That'll help some, but not sure how much and it doesn't feel like it should be necessary.
Any ideas?

Cheers

[JulianS]

You may need to make a cable to suit. Ready made ones seldom fit properly they need to be quite average and some new ones are poor quality.

The handle bar lever will often pull right back when at rest but in motion the shoes slide and give it a different feel.

Try it again when the bike is in use

[Dabbist]

Thanks Julian. I don't think it's a problem of cable fit, as I've got plenty of adjustment in it. I can easily adjust it until the brake is well and truly on.
I did wonder whether the new cable might be a bit elastic for a while, though.
I hadn't thought about the feel changing when it's going, though it's hard to imagine it changing that much. It's incredibly light compared to my cub.
More incentive to finish the engine

[JulianS]

The TLS brake is a very good one I certainly would not alter any of the operating levers.

When you ride it you will see what I mean about the action and feel of it.

[Barney Rubble]

Thanks Julian. I don't think it's a problem of cable fit, as I've got plenty of adjustment in it. I can easily adjust it until the brake is well and truly on.
I did wonder whether the new cable might be a bit elastic for a while, though.
I hadn't thought about the feel changing when it's going, though it's hard to imagine it changing that much. It's incredibly light compared to my cub.
More incentive to finish the engine

Having posted similar issues, I find that it is still the same when in motion! I have got it so I can just about brake, and the lever comes all the way back, with all adjusters screwed out (too far IMHO).

[Dabbist]

If you have all the adjusters screwed fully out then, to me, that sounds like an issue of cable fit. I had the same with the first cable I fitted, which is why I changed it for the tr25w one. 
I still have lots of adjustment left in my cable. If I were to screw the adjusters out more than about half way the brake would be permanently hard on.
What's the cable routing like? If it's good, then obviously the outer length is ok. If it's too long (mine was) then just lay it in the right place and measure by how much. If you screw the adjusters in, disconnect it from the brake end then measure how much shorter  it would need to be to be in the right place, you can work out the inner length. Then it's a matter of either hunting on line or making one up.

[Dabbist]

Sorry if somebody alteady said this on your other post, but I guess another possibility is that your linings are too thin. That brake seems to bring the shoes back a long way. Villiers will fit extra thick linings, and arc them for you.
Alternatively as a temporary bodge/test (which is actually perfectly safe) you can place shims around the ends of the shoes where they contact the pivot and the cam. Thus requiring much less movement.
If you can't adjust the cable so that the brake shoes are just touching, with plenty of adjustment left, then those two issues need to be looked at first.