rear wheel adjustment A65

[nablats]

I have always struggled with wheel alignment. The long straight edge, string, and sighting along the wheels from the rear of the bike all seem hit and miss (for me). I have seen a method with a round bar steel rod which measures between the swingarm pivot and the axle centres. Theory being if its the same distance left and right, the wheel must be in line with the frame.
   What I stumbled on while looking at the hollow swingarm tube, was that a short length of copper pipe I had from a recent plumbing job was a lovely sliding fit in said tube.
   It was easy then to measure from the pipe sticking through the swingarm to the axle on each side, and compare and equalise as needed. A quick test ride just now seems to be working, I have upswept pipes, so it may be harder with low pipes.
    I also find the adjusters can only push against the axle, whereas other bikes I had used a threaded rod welded to a collar washer round the axle which held the axle in a push/pull action, much more positive method imho. I am looking into getting something fabricated.   

[Gup holland]

That's the way I do it, I measure the center of axle  to center of swingarm bolt.

Should be fine.....

A65 1970.

[nablats]

Thanks buddy, my draughtsman geometry training said it should work, but its nice to hear from another! 

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Once you have it in line make sure when adjusting it is the same both sides. I count the flats on the adjuster. Do both sides 3 to 4 flats and check the tension. Then if more needed go 1 flat at a time.
Make sure that the swinging arm is horizontal - wheel spindle, swinging arm pivot and gear box shaft are all in line.  This is when the chain will be at its tightest and when the amount of slack must be measured.

Dave.

[iansoady]

I also find the adjusters can only push against the axle, whereas other bikes I had used a threaded rod welded to a collar washer round the axle which held the axle in a push/pull action, much more positive method imho. I am looking into getting something fabricated.   

This type of adjuster is fitted to many of the unit construction singles and may be a direct replacement?

[V500]

I also find the adjusters can only push against the axle, whereas other bikes I had used a threaded rod welded to a collar washer round the axle which held the axle in a push/pull action, much more positive method imho. I am looking into getting something fabricated.   

Worked OK for the last 60 years, haven't they?

I prefer the real-world checking if the wheels are actually in line rather than theoretical measurements, at least for initial checking. If the wheels are in line in reality and the measurement you mention is the same both sides, then you're good to go, but I wouldn't necessarily trust the dimension unchecked on a decades old frame.

[nablats]

Dave - I think I remember - a guy took off the shocks so he could easy raise the swingarm or maybe ratchet straps would do it
Ian - I will look on draganfly - their parts diagrams are handy
V500 - how do you perform the real world check - I struggle with how to get/keep the front wheel dead ahead while using a straight edge/string
thanks to all

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Usually if the shocks are on the softest setting and a large friend sits on the pillion with the bike off the centre stand it is about right.  Once you have established the correct adjustment check with no load so that you have a 'real life' measurement.
I added a bit to the bottom of my chain guards so that the chain does not get 'washed' when it rains.
My ball park measurement is to pull the chain down on the bottom run and if I can just the chain to the edge of the chain guard then it is right.
Good lube is essential.  I have a Scottoiler on one A65 and use Silkolene on the other.

Dave.

[iansoady]

The trick with taking the suspension units off is handy. You can set the chain slack very accurately with the sprockets and swinging arm in line like that. Then replace the units and measure the slack with the bike on the centre stand - this is the figure you should adjust to from now on. You only need to repeat the process if you fit new suspension units.

Velocette used to supply a bar which you installed in place of one of the suspension units which gave the correct positioning.

[V500]

Even better, they told you that it was 11 3/4" centres so you could make your own..

[limeyrob]

I lean the bike against a wall and put a jack under the foot pedal so it doesn't fall on me.  Then straight plank with a bit nailed on that's half the front / rear tyre difference.  Rest it on a block off wood so its as high as it will go then use a hand clamp to hold it to the rear wheel / tyre.

[nablats]

This is good stuff, theres never a fat friend around when you need one though!
I use gear oil `cos its sticky, is there an `o` ring option dya know?
Cheers chaps.

[iansoady]

O rig chains are wider and will often catch on the back of the primary chaincase.

[nablats]

Cheers, will give those a miss, more expensive anyway...