1060 B33 Alte model clutch

[RichardAB]

I attach photo (I did a video but couldn't upload) of clutch. Seems a lot of movement both in the outer basket and the plates. The clutch centre nut is tight. I have correct length clutch rod and ball bearing in outer pressure plate and the extra friction plate (all as fitted for alternator models). New friction plates fitted and roller bearings (20) but not the bearing race/rim/cage (not sure of name). Clutch cable adjustment is proving difficult (adjuster is at handlebar end) then within gearbox. If I start the bike (with outer cover off) pull in clutch the outer friction plate comes out of the basket. Not good. Clutch in again and the plate will eventually slot back into the basket. The obvious answer is something is wrong! Worn?

[V500]

Too many clutch plates fitted for the depth of clutch basket? There's different depth clutch baskets depending on model.

[limeyrob]

Looks like that's a friction plate on the outer end, start by taking that out as it should be a plain plate up against the spring plate.  The set up you have won't work and the spring plate will cut a groove in the friction plate.

[RichardAB]

Looks like that's a friction plate on the outer end, start by taking that out as it should be a plain plate up against the spring plate.  The set up you have won't work and the spring plate will cut a groove in the friction plate.

as far as I'm aware and as per both Haynes and Dragonfly there should be 5 of each plate finishing as shown (yes odd configuration). As poster above says maybe wrong depth clutch basket. I think I'm going try with 1 less plate finishing with plain plate.

[V500]

You're right. I hadn't noticed that. Who does this sort of thing?

[JulianS]

This may help. From the factory owners manual for the alternator B31/33. 4 x bonded plates and 5 time plain plates, presuming the correct chainwheel and drum are fitted.

[Derek996]

The Triumph/BSA 4 spring clutch should always start and end with a plain plate. So 4 friction and 5 plain or 5 friction and 6 plain depending on the bike. The OP's picture looks like it has an additional friction plate at the outside end.

[RichardAB]

Thank you. I'm going to give

This may help. From the factory owners manual for the alternator B31/33. 4 x bonded plates and 5 time plain plates, presuming the correct chainwheel and drum are fitted.

thank you I'm going to try that configuration. The way I have it is as found

[limeyrob]

Perhaps they were relying on Haynes

[RichardAB]

Update - I've read & re-read Haynes, Haycraft & your comments. I've removed the outer friction plate & the recommended ball bearing. I used the 11 1/2" rod for this model. I couldn't get the cable adjustment correct so I refitted the ball bearing in the pressure plate and I'm now able to get the clutch adjusted at both ends. I've used heavy duty springs and adjusted them to stop slip on kick over. When clutch pulled in the pressure plate releases to allow the clutch to disengage. So all seems to be working well. Another lesson learned. That's it for today as I have some gardening to do. Bikes are great in the warm spring sunshine but they are also good for weed growth!!. Thank you all.

[RichardAB]

[Derek996]

Looking good. Get out on the bike now while the weather is good.Too much gardening isn't good for the wildlife.

[RichardAB]

This may help. From the factory owners manual for the alternator B31/33. 4 x bonded plates and 5 time plain plates, presuming the correct chainwheel and drum are fitted.

thank you

[limeyrob]

If you haven't already done so (or put the cover back on) its worth taking time to adjust the springs to get the spring plate running true. It can take a few attempts but it really reduces drag.

[V500]

I'll second this. Set up with a DTI my ZB32 clutch became "quite nice" from the original "king awful".
Obviously all old British clutches need truing before serious use, but the BSA six plate clutch (which you haven't got) needed careful adjustment.