A65 KTM Clutch

[DMadigan]

Just back from the machine shop:

All clutch parts except the individual parts shown are KTM. The basket runs on a double row ball bearing so it does not wobble when the pressure plate is lifted. Belleville spring has three tension settings. 8 drive and 8 driven plates. Not shown is the ball thrust lifter for the pressure plate.
Prototype installed on motor:

A B50 version (same except two row chain) has been run at the race track. Far outlasted the stock clutch.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

That looks amazing.  Are you producing a kit for this?  I know it would be expensive but it may be worth it. Are you based in the UK?

Dave.

[DMadigan]

Hi Dave, yes, these are available. I had a run of ten made. Not as cheap as I would have liked but the cost of materials has gone up with the tariffs. The hub takes an R3/T150/T160 clutch hub puller. The screw and dowel holes on the face are for the starter ring gear.
In the US.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Roughly what would the cost be?  You mention a starter ring so is there a starter available?

Dave.

[DMadigan]

I have to list the parts costs (bearings, retaining ring, et cetera) but based on the shop cost looking at the $1000 - $1100 range.
The starter is not done yet. This is the design I am working on:

The intermediate gear drops down through a slot in  a spacer into the ring gear. A link to the starter and intermediate gear operation:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/11692927@N07/51500953263/in/album-72157688652393165/
No engine modifications are needed.
I need to decide whether to space out the brake arm and foot peg or cast a shallower cover.

[Daz]

I have to list the parts costs (bearings, retaining ring, et cetera) but based on the shop cost looking at the $1000 - $1100 range.
The starter is not done yet. This is the design I am working on:

The intermediate gear drops down through a slot in  a spacer into the ring gear. A link to the starter and intermediate gear operation:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/11692927@N07/51500953263/in/album-72157688652393165/
No engine modifications are needed.
I need to decide whether to space out the brake arm and foot peg or cast a shallower cover.

Some very interesting things in that album! I hope you will share more of it with us.
Particularly interested in the trochoidal oil pump and pressure relief valve setups.

[DMadigan]

The gerotor pump uses KTM parts. I posted it on Britbike but got little interest because the shaft does not align with the tachometer drive in the inner case so only useful if you do not have a tach or use an electronic one.
I was going to make steel pump bodies that users could put their own gears into but not knowing what variations in gear diameter and width from manufacture or wear, this was not the best solution.
I am making another oil pump using gears that are larger and 12 tooth instead of the 14 tooth stock gears. I added additional seals between the pressure side and return side to reduce the wet sumping. Volume is about 75% larger based on swept area. The pump will have O-rings to seal against the crank case.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55054379230_8e1c39fbc6_z.jpg
I am reworking the OPRV with the ball valve. Too hard to seal the rubber faced washer against the valve body. Instead, trying a plain washer with a brass piston that has an O-ring embedded in the face. That way the fit of the piston in the body does not affect the sealing the way it does on the later piston OPRVs.
There is still the problem with leakage past the three threads between the pressure side and the relief hole. The larger volume pump helps overcome this.