carb clean saga

Started by rustyboots, 09 Feb, 2026, 16:17

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rustyboots

Hi all.
Further to the previous post relating to work done on the carb.

 i.e. fitted a new 260 main jet, a new 3.5 slide and a new 30 pilot jet, needle set at position 2,

Yesterday after much fiddling,mumblings and cutting down etc i fitted a new throttle cable,with approx 1/4" slack at the twist grip, on start up it was running at fairly high revs, way too fast, no way could i bring it down to tick over.
 
So today i decided that the inner cable must be too short as looking at the slide through the bellmouth it appeared to be quite high in the carb, so more cutting and cursing, I now have it running slower but still too fast. No amount of fiddling with air screw or throttle stop achieves a tickover.

There is still approx 1/4" slack at the twist grip before the slide moves, and a good snap back on release of the throttle.
Any ideas please.
TIA

rhyatt

#1
When you look into the carb , is the engine side of the throttle slide closed right off in the carb ?

I suppose you could disconnect the twistgrip entirely and see if the throttle slide drops onto the tick over screw

limeyrob

Hmmm.  Even though its running to fast does screwing the throttle stop in make it faster?  This would tell you that the slide is touching the throttle stop.  I suspect its not.  What effect does the idle air screw have, if any?  What effect does the ignition advance /retard have?
I suspect the slide is catching on something (this does happen) and you will get nowhere until you can be sure it goes all the way down without the cable.
I bought a bike that would not idle slowly and I could not get the mixture right.  The throttle stop did noting.  In end, after hours of frustration I stripped the carb and measured everything. It was a Monobloc but someone had fitted a Concentric needle which is 1/2 longer.  I doubt very much this is your problem but its an example of what complete PITA these "simple" problems can be.

iansoady

Even with monoblocs there are 2 different needles - B and C. My Norton Electra should have had a B - a C was fitted. The previoous owner had never got it to run properly. I went to Hitchcocks to get the correct B needle. Off went the chap only to return with another C. The box they had marked as B had a mixture of the two. Caveat emptor.

As it happens I actually changed to a Wassell copy of the Amal premier concentric as the monobloc was fairly worn. It did run better with the right needle though!
Ian.
1964 Norton Electra
1969 BSA / Suzuki DZR400 / Steib S501
2016 Herald Classic 250

scifi

I think there is some way of incorrectly fitting the Slide Return Spring, or it could be the Choke Spring, that would gum up the action.

DAVE BRADY

Hi,

A bit of a long shot but is the needle going in to its jet properly? If not it may be preventing the slide from going fully to the bottom. The 1/4" slack should be plenty but have you tried the action of the slide with the carb.off the bike. With the cable attached the throttle can still be operated but with a much better view of is happening.
Where about do you live?  Someone nearby may be able to help.

Dave.

rustyboots

This is where the slide sits without cable attached

V500

Quote from: V500 on 09 Feb, 2026, 18:04 There seems to be two issues here; the cable, and the slide returning.
Without the cable fitted does the slide clunk down onto the adjusting screw?


Posted together. Can you not get the slide to close all the way down?

rhyatt

In your picture above , I just can't make out if the engine side is right down , sorry but carb off I'm afraid

rustyboots

Quote from: V500 on 09 Feb, 2026, 18:06
Quote from: V500 on 09 Feb, 2026, 18:04 There seems to be two issues here; the cable, and the slide returning.
Without the cable fitted does the slide clunk down onto the adjusting screw?  it clunks yes, onto what i dont know


Posted together. Can you not get the slide to close all the way down?  That is as far as it goes at the moment should it be closed completley?

rustyboots

Quote from: rhyatt on 09 Feb, 2026, 18:14 In your picture above , I just can't make out if the engine side is right down , sorry but carb off I'm afraid

It a rubbish pic im afraid, cant get the bellmouth off.
Yes  i should take it off and review work done so far  ;D

DAVE BRADY

Hi,

The slide should go completely down but on the other side. The curved gap you can see is the 'cut away'.  Depending on what slide is fitted, it looks about right.

Dave.

rustyboots

Thanks very much again guys, will take carb off again in next day or so to see what's going on

rustyboots

Hi all
So this morning decided to pop the old slide back in to see where that was sitting in relation to the new one, seemed to be in the same place looking through the bellmouth, however what was very evident was the actual fit of the slide in the carb, the old one i thought, a good fit diameter wise.
Popped the new one back in and wow, it was so slack i don't know how i didnt notice when i first fitted it.
So put it all back together with the old slide and bobs yer uncle, got it down to a decent enough tickover to have a sigh of relief.
Not quite sure where to go with the new slide now, probably see what feked has to say first as it came from there.
Huge thanks to all who provided input.

DAVE BRADY

Hi,

Definitely send it back to Feked.  There too many poor pattern parts out there already.

Dave.