Do I upgrade parts for more reliability?

[the chippy]

Going 12volt has the advantage of less voltage drop in the system. Also the easier availability of components.

Yes I watched a good youtube video how the 12v battery has better for power usage as it needs less amps. Not quite got my head around it but I am working on it.
Thanks Steve.

[the chippy]

If the bike is charging  happily on 6v and its original mechanical regulator and everything working happily electrically , then frankly I'd  leave well alone .
I run my bikes on 6v and have no issues.
Only if your charging starts to "wobble" then consider the electronic regulator.
The USB output is 5v for your phones and GPS etc , but they all have 12v input.
Explore 6v cars to discover using usb, there must be classic 6v vw beetles and porsche 356 driving about with usb and sat navs plugged in

failing that - find a handlebar usb socket  from ebay      https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187216269667
and lash it up to a 6 volt battery to see what happens - nothing to lose really

Thank you for that advise. I can now see that to some extent connecting to a 6v supply is not really an issue.  I think it will be trial.  Thanks Steve.

[the chippy]

I got a CPT USB power supply off e-bay for the Land Rover, 5 years and a lot of damp and vibration its still working fine. It says 12V input with 5v out but on the spec its listed as 8v to 22v input so at under £5 you could experiment.  These thing come with 2 USB sockets on tails so you can hide the box and poke the leads out, I bought 2 because I was sure it wouldn't last, the spare is sill in its box.  The sockets are plated steel and get corroded but at £5 you have cut them some slack.

Thank you, this has got me thinking now. I have some experimenting to do. All the best Steve.

[createscript]

I've just read through this thread - a lot of content in a few days. Fascinating and hats off to you for wanting to ride, not show, your B31. I've only ridden one B31, once, a mid 50s springer and they are just so usable and a real pleasure - that one even stopped reasonably well.
In all the posts (and I'm aware the discussion has moved from the original fuel topic onto electrics) I haven't seen any mention of E5 vs E10 fuel. As a matter of course I only use E5 (except in emergencies) and never store it in the bike when laid up, draining both the tank and the fuel system as the ethanol makes it hygroscopic. I even add Putoline E10 fuel fighter to the stored fuel for good measure. There will be plenty of discussions elsewhere about the merits and demerits of different fuels but, on the whole, modern fuels can really mess with the way old bikes run (especially those in a higher state of tune, so clearly not a B31) and if recommended carbs settings don't seem to improve running you may have to alter ignition timing, etc. or even those carb settings, but I'd go with the recommended settings first then look at ignition timing.

Andy

[limeyrob]

I too have gone all E5.  In the past I used to run old bikes, especially those with manual ign timing, on the cheapest petrol I could get.  Many were designed to run on pool petrol which was very low octane. But I've had a lot of problems with E10 on older vehicles, the bio-ethanol is an aggressive solvent and absorbs a lot of water.

[the chippy]

I've just read through this thread - a lot of content in a few days. Fascinating and hats off to you for wanting to ride, not show, your B31. I've only ridden one B31, once, a mid 50s springer and they are just so usable and a real pleasure - that one even stopped reasonably well.
In all the posts (and I'm aware the discussion has moved from the original fuel topic onto electrics) I haven't seen any mention of E5 vs E10 fuel. As a matter of course I only use E5 (except in emergencies) and never store it in the bike when laid up, draining both the tank and the fuel system as the ethanol makes it hygroscopic. I even add Putoline E10 fuel fighter to the stored fuel for good measure. There will be plenty of discussions elsewhere about the merits and demerits of different fuels but, on the whole, modern fuels can really mess with the way old bikes run (especially those in a higher state of tune, so clearly not a B31) and if recommended carbs settings don't seem to improve running you may have to alter ignition timing, etc. or even those carb settings, but I'd go with the recommended settings first then look at ignition timing.

Andy

Hi Andy. My biggest issue is a lack of knowledge regarding biking in general. In fact until 2023 I hated motorbikes, noisy, dangerous things, so my Dad said as he never wanted me to have a bike, His Brother in Law had a terrible crash which paralyzed his pillion. Anyway I just happened to be clearing my loft, sorting though old photos, saw the 1950s ones of Mum and Dad on EDY (its reg is EDY 96) looked on DVLA and saw it was registered still. And all I felt I wanted to do then was contact the keeper and pass on copies of the photos and other documents for EDY. And then I got the bike and I just love riding them. Wish I had started decades ago.  So sitting on a motorcycle for the first time age 68 means its been a steep learning curve. I am 70 now and last year after passing my bike test it was learning how to ride and starting my advanced training. My Dad sold this bike in 1956 when I was 1 year old so  he wasn't a biker long, needed the money to buy his first car. But between 1950 and 56 he rode it a lot. In fact he got the bike so he could get back to South London from Catterick Yorkshire to see his girlfriend, my Mum. when he had a weekend of leave from his obligatory National Service in the Royal Signals. Then when he was working as a plumbers mate would ride from job to job with a plumbers tool bag on his back.
So one of the trips I would like to do this summer is recreate a trip up to Catterick. The other is see my Granddaughter in Ireland.
At the moment the important thing is to know the bike will be reliable. Get some miles under my belt so I can, how shall I say it? mould myself to the bike, become one with it.
I also want to do the work on it myself, again so if and when I have issues, hopefully I can resolve them, or at least diagnose them.
And yes, for my comfort and safety I would like some tech, navigation and camera. I am used to riding my Kowasaki 650 so have all of that and music in my ears, lol.
I had issues with the Ewerts fuel tap, that took a lot of removing, stripping, cork replacing and refitting to stop it leaking petrol. So now I'm on the tank relining issues, tank strip came today.
Still not 100% decided what to do with the carb, I am of a mind to fit a mono block.
My head is a real muddle about the 6 or 12v scenario. Ignoring the classic bike enthusiast view of keeping it original, I do understand that, there are very good reasons to go 12v. If as I originally thought, I would keep the bike as a museum piece the pre mono would stay, the 6v will stay, etc etc. But the problem is I REALLY want to ride it a lot. So although I don't want to change the look of the bike or do anything none reversible, I feel I need to do a bit so I am not calling out recovery, I can see and be seen at night and for it to be practical.
I would add, I have great fun on my 650 Versys but it's a completely different type of fun on the B31.
Thanks Steve.

[the chippy]

I too have gone all E5.  In the past I used to run old bikes, especially those with manual ign timing, on the cheapest petrol I could get.  Many were designed to run on pool petrol which was very low octane. But I've had a lot of problems with E10 on older vehicles, the bio-ethanol is an aggressive solvent and absorbs a lot of water.

The guy I bought the bike from used E5. He never filled the tank as he only used the bike a couple of times a year to show at classic bike shows, but he did have several other classics and recommended E5 and said he never had issues.
Steve.   

[rhyatt]

Good for you in your search.
My son is recently recreating bike adventures that I made in the late 60 s.
Your desire for mechanical empathy is very important when riding these older machines and this empathy and deep "feel" for the bikes ensures confidence when out and about.
I understand equally the dilemma about 6 and 12v , but why not leave well alone and concentrate on the bits that aren't working and prioritise those.
You need the carb sorted to get it running and enable you to get out and about and settle into the machine.
You'll enjoy both the learning /fiddling journey and eventual ride certainly

[limeyrob]

Lovely story!  Don't worry about the 6v vs 12v. Its an easy change over at any time.
Don't forget we want a travelogue!

[createscript]

I agree, don't worry about the 6v vs 12v. The modern LED bulb replacements available for nearly all the old bulbs mean that the current draw is minimal (some might say too small) for excellent output and 6v circuits nowadays need not prevent you riding in the dark or gloomy conditions as long as the dynamo, voltage regulation and all the wires and connections are sound. Just make sure that the LED bulbs are either polarity agnostic or you get the right ones for your wiring setup (likely +ve earth)

[V500]

On the other hand, before getting too far into the dreaming and  planning of big trips, why not get the bike going reliably (possibly keeping the old carb and staying at 6V) and trying some longer more local trips?
You won't be the first to suddenly realise that the "romanticism of old bikes" isn't really for you at all, moreso as you're a late starter into the old bike world?
One breakdown on a dark road and in the rain could end the dream forever...

[createscript]

In the broader context of upgrading parts for reliability, there's this curious thing that old British bikes don't really like being dismantled nor being left standing. I've seen so many old bikes that are, frankly, ratty old heaps but have been like that for nearly 50 years, gradually and progressively deteriorating on their wheels, and yet in regular use and just keep running and running, maybe sub-optimally but they don't leave their owners completely stranded.

Conversely, where I've bought an old bike and 'fixed' just about everything that's apparently broken or worn out, confident that it'll serve me well as a result, it has often done just the opposite.

Call it something a bit mystical if you will, or just call me superstitious (which I'm not really) but I'm not the only one holding this view.
 
I'd say, fix any obvious red flag items (poor wiring and connections, cracked tyres, bad leakages etc.), carry out the necessary maintenance tasks, feed it good fluids where needed, but more than anything, keep using it - if it doesn't let you down in 10 x 20 mile excursions, it'll probably manage 200 mile days just as well, but if it does let you down, you'll at least be close to home.

[V500]

I hold a similar view, and not just with experiences of old bikes. Tried and tested machinery and plant can suddenly become unreliable if someone starts fannying-around with various aspects and components.
In common slang, "You've let the good fairy out".

[idie]

On the other hand, before getting too far into the dreaming and  planning of big trips, why not get the bike going reliably (possibly keeping the old carb and staying at 6V) and trying some longer more local trips?
You won't be the first to suddenly realise that the "romanticism of old bikes" isn't really for you at all, moreso as you're a late starter into the old bike world?
One breakdown on a dark road and in the rain could end the dream forever...

If you have a good magneto you most likely won't break down on a wet night. You don't need lecky for a magneto. I have had my B33 50 years now.The most reliable bike I've  had.

[limeyrob]

I had my B31 for about 20 years and commuted over 30 miles every day for 3 years and it never broke down. It took a bit of servicing but always worked.