Wellseal

Started by chrisx1, 07 Apr, 2024, 11:39

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V500

Don't know about "developed" but didn't R-R promote Hylomar?
Wellseal one side and grease the other is my preferred method.

iansoady

I think it was hylomar - the blue stuff - that was said to be developed by RR. I still prefer wellseal.
Ian.
1964 Norton Electra
1969 BSA / Suzuki DZR400 / Steib S501
2016 Herald Classic 250

TTJOHN

I consider Wellseal old hat, there are plenty of other products on the market, why use gaskets if you can seal a face with something different, I believe Locktite can seal almost anything as long as you don't need a gap for things like gear boxes where the distance between is crucial.

TTJ

brewsy

Sorry for a potential hijack but why do we want to put anything on the gaskets?
Isn't it their job to seal the imperfections?
I'm seeing variations of (some kind of sealer) on one side and either nothing or grease on the other.

Just trying to get a handle on this and the best way to try to make my bike as dry as possible.

Thanks
Marc

iansoady

As usual you're spoilt for choice. As far as I'm concerned, wellseal, gasket and grease do the job perfectly well even if it's old hat. The same can be said for most of our bikes, and I don't consider that loctite will be any better provided the mating surfaces are in good order.
Ian.
1964 Norton Electra
1969 BSA / Suzuki DZR400 / Steib S501
2016 Herald Classic 250

V500

Indeed, if Hylomar or Wellseal "work" as desired then how can anything be better in some way?
They either seal or they don't.

neil1964

The most troublesome areas on my bikes (different era/spec B34) is the primary chaincase. 
I've cleaned, trued, cleared the the inner case screw threads, tried different spacers between inner case and frame.   
So far used my usual Halite gasket and Wellseal, Halite and grease, rubber fitted dry, rubber with Wellseal, various combos of the above with Loctite flange sealer, including filling the screw holes on the innermost face of the case (next to the chain).
None have been 100%, each time I think I've cracked it after 2-3 runs there is a drip. I'm using Castrol TQF (red) with the NEB clutch and Castrol 10/30 4T for modern (unit engine/gearbox/clutch) in the 6-spring (clutch is 'perfect' thus far.
As no oil ways to worry about I can try RTV or the rubber again with glue.
Rest of the engines and gearbox are ok (speedo drive dribble, mist around gearbox, gear change spindles).

chaz

when I rebuilt my first car engine , a Vauxhall Viva HB around 1977, the main dealers recommended Welseal, Ive had a tube ever since. My only complaint, its permanent.
Fluff Brown of FB AJS used to use bathroom sealer on all his Stormer builds.

Not tending to rebuild as often, I find Ive got tubes of kitchen sealer, Orange hermatite (mastic), grey Michel, black Welseal, red Hermatite and a blue fuel and oil proof sealer.
the mastic/kitchen sealer type, never last long solidifying in the tube. Welseal is liquid, Michel went squidgy (rubbery not set but not spreadable) the blue one I use most often is like a grease, non setting.

cdsdorset2

I tend to just use 3 bond on pri.ary cases etc. No gasket.

ducati2242

I use 3 bond put on where theres no gasket it is the best .
1956 bsa GS DB500
1968 mk1 Rocket 3
2006 ducati 999R .

Steve.S

The main problem I find with Hylomar, is that it seems to loose it's solvent in the tube over time, making it unusable.
Wellseal, on the other hand, seems to last for ever. The only problem is the smell, but if you suffer from uncontrollable flatulence, you probably won't notice.

iansoady

Quote from: chaz on 10 Jul, 2025, 08:31 when I rebuilt my first car engine , a Vauxhall Viva HB around 1977, the main dealers recommended Welseal, Ive had a tube ever since. My only complaint, its permanent.
Fluff Brown of FB AJS used to use bathroom sealer on all his Stormer builds.



It can be removed with carburettor cleaner as it never sets permanently (at least not between my rebuilds!) I use clear bathroom sealer (must be silicone based not acrylic) but very sparingly and only when there's no chance of it getting in oilways etc. The primary chaincase on my Electra being a case in point.
Ian.
1964 Norton Electra
1969 BSA / Suzuki DZR400 / Steib S501
2016 Herald Classic 250

chaz

never had carb cleaner back in the 70's.
just looked at a KTM 350 that seized, a previous owner had work done and instead of new gaskets, someone used black mastic style sealer. oil tight but blocked a couple of oilways, one small one you would not think was a oilhole.
a similar bike Ive just rebuilt a 2 stroke crosser,, had seized mix was too thin, casings joined with a similar black sealer.
some places leave signatures.

iansoady

Quote from: chaz on 11 Jul, 2025, 13:04 never had carb cleaner back in the 70's.

No but we did have MEK and other horrible substances. During a stint in the instrument workshop as a technical apprentice with the CEGB in the late 1960s it was great stuff for degreasing but did leave you feeling fairly stoned after a while......
Ian.
1964 Norton Electra
1969 BSA / Suzuki DZR400 / Steib S501
2016 Herald Classic 250

BrummieJon

Quote from: Mosin on 07 Jul, 2025, 18:36 I have been using nitrile rubber gaskets which I buy from some chap off ebay. They appear to be well made and last well. The only downside which I have found is that there seems to be something in Wellseal which causes them to disintegrate. They work brilliantly with any other sealant, grease, or even no seal, but on the couple of times I have tried them with Wellseal, they have literally dropped to pieces within about 24 hours. Has anyone else experienced this?
I have one of these off fleabay for my primary chaincase, I'm struggling to fit it because it is so floppy, how are you doing it?