undoing old bullet connectors

Started by hoogerbooger, 16 Jan, 2025, 17:10

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DAVE BRADY

Hi,

If you rewire your bike yourself leave out any connector that is not necessary e.g. run a continuous wire from the switch in the headlight to the tail light.  Do this wherever possible and the number of connectors in the harness will be reduced.

Dave.

V500

Good in theory but not so good if you need to remove the rear light or rear mudguard.
Connectors (done correctly) aren't a problem.

neil1964

I use bullets on original machines. A dab of solder on the end is useful (do not overheat or let solder wick down the wire as it causes a weak spot where wires can fracture). I use dielectric switch grease to minimise water ingress. Helps minimise dodgy high resistance joints on bikes and my Landrover.
There is little doubt that the tightly crimped Japanese style with flexible clear insulation works well and keeps water out.

scifi

Hi MadPete..  The real problem with bullet connectors is the first time they get wet; Either by a rain squall or following an HGV splashing though puddles.   The dampness causes a galvanic action between the tube and the bullets, and in 6 months the whole thing is a corroded mess, and a high resistant joint.

V500

Six months? Someone can't have been doing it right..

idie

Interesting reading all this. I have never had problems with bullet connectors.

iansoady

Quote from: neil1964 on 19 Jan, 2025, 09:27 There is little doubt that the tightly crimped Japanese style with flexible clear insulation works well and keeps water out.

But it will get in eventually and then the same problems occur. Many times I've struggled with corroded connectors on Japanese bikes although I confess to using them on occasion. But soldered not criomped.
Ian.
1964 Norton Electra
1969 BSA / Suzuki DZR400 / Steib S501
2016 Herald Classic 250

hoogerbooger

Whilst looking for best tools to put bullets back in.....it occurred to me that rather than use the supplied sheath a longer piece of heartshrink might be better ?....

Easier to push bullets in without sheath in place. Could put a little heat resistant dielectric grease on the bullet/ pvc coat junction where I have bare wire....slide over the heat shrink 5mm longer either side  and shrink in.

Downside I guess is at any later removal the the heatshrink over the pvc will be a be harder to remove.


iansoady

I have a tool I got from an autojumble years ago which is specifically designed to push the bullets into the sleeves although it's awkward to line up sometimes. Like this one although I had to add the handle comforters myself and I certainly didn't pay £20 for mine.

https://www.almsolutions.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_535_551&products_id=1860
Ian.
1964 Norton Electra
1969 BSA / Suzuki DZR400 / Steib S501
2016 Herald Classic 250

Rog1

Quote from: iansoady on 19 Jan, 2025, 15:48 I have a tool I got from an autojumble years ago which is specifically designed to push the bullets into the sleeves although it's awkward to line up sometimes. Like this one although I had to add the handle comforters myself and I certainly didn't pay £20 for mine.

https://www.almsolutions.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_535_551&products_id=1860

I'd seen such a tool on sale before, so hoping it was cheaper I found it and checked the price: nearly £45! I'm not going to link to that one, but it's a crude device that many of us could make for very little.

Tigerfeet

You probably don't want to hear this - but I always fit new electrical cables to old bikes. Black wire corrosion can set in deep within the loom and causes endless problems. So the whole loom goes in the bin and I start again.