still not starting

[rhyatt]

Look at the tickler button body that's screwed into the top of the float chamber.
You should not have a water under the body where it screws down onto the float chamber.

[Barnsey]

Agreed. No washer fitted.   I might double check the jets tomorrow, although I have already cleaned them once. 

Exactly what position should the engine be in when I kick?  I manged to inch it around to TDC with the point open before kicking, but no joy. 

[Barnsey]

Should my carb be a 375 or 376? I am investigating rebuild kits

[rhyatt]

C15 I'm sure 375

Using the kick start pedal , bring it up to tdc
Ease it over tdc just.
Then ignition on and good kick
Try wider throttle if you feel too rich

[Kernowpete2]

Is there a chance the clutch could be slipping? It should be easy to identify by feel as you kick it.

[Barnsey]

I'm not aware of any slipping. I'm not entirely sure of my technique tho'.

A carburettor kit can be bought for around £36 so not too bad.  Are there any wrinkles to be aware of if I do the job myself?  Or might I be better off to farm it out to an expert?   

[scifi]

Oooh Heck, Thought it was solved...   I have a C11 which is sometimes difficult to start, and have put the cause down to it wet-sumping.   If left standing for a month, it fills the crankcase and the chaincase from the oil tank.   The additional crankcase pressure. and oil prevents an easy start.   It also has a stupid shock absorber on the primary chain drive, which doesn't help with the kick momentum.

[rhyatt]

You have to follow a technique to ensure a start, I've just gone into the shed and started my c15.
Up to tdc with the kick start.
Release kick start up to the top of its travel ready to swing again.
Using kickstart , ease it just over tdc , release ks
Ignition on , throttle set , good firm swing with the pedal , away she went.
I had a tiny press of the tickler until my finger was just wet.
No choke
Away.

But the suggestion of wet jumping is very valid , given the time it has not been started.
Slacken the 4 nuts on the sump plate , drain oil out and pour it back into oil tank
Nip up nuts
Try to start it given above process

[Barnsey]

I don't think that it has been wet sumping.  My mate and I checked for that once before by taking the drain plug out of the sump, (do I REALLY need to remove the strainer plate?).   No slurping noises either. 

I am tempted to ask my wife to give a squirt of Easy Start while I kick.   If that works it might prove that there is an issue with the carb. 

I might check the jets again too.  I've already cleaned them once, but how long can it take for them to block up with standing? 

   BR,  Ian 

[rhyatt]

you don't need to remove the sump plate or filter - just ease them off and let it (if any) dribble out

[Barnsey]

I got it running again:
1/ Carb and check the main jet. Spilling yellow petrol everywhere
2/ Reassemble.
3/ Preheat plug with blow torch.
4/ Tickle
5/ Kick over with switches off and throttle wide.
6/ Switches on and kick over again. 

  I stopped the engine when the carb started to leak fuel.

  I'm strongly tempted to buy a service kit for the carb. 

    I'f I can't get to a point that it will start on demand going on trips out might get a bit iffy!!

 

[rhyatt]

Plug should be N5 or equivalent
Where is the leak actually coming from??
Is it the bottom jet block to main body ? If so may need the main body face truing and cleaning up, those faces often get damaged

[Barnsey]

Yes it was.  I tightened it up a bit but I think it might benefit from a new fibre washer

[rhyatt]

thats a regular place to leak Burlen do those fibre washers , but when you get them , check the quality of the faces the bottom of my main body was quite pocked and needed a careful facing square and decent - now dry

https://amalcarb.co.uk/monobloc-series/375-series/gaskets/gasket-sets.html     about 6 quid plus post

if you're disturbing the carb off the head, have a you the fibre plate between the head and the carb , must have that
and if you dont know the history off the needle jet or needle then consider them as mentioned earlier in 1 of my posts to you
check also the truth of the carb flange face - -use a surface plate of piece of glass to ensure it is really flat - do NOT tighten the 2 flange nuts up stupidly tight - just enough
you should be there

[Barnsey]

Thanks!  They actually do a more comprehensive kit with the needles and jets too for around £36. I just need to figure out which jets. Now..  wheres my manual?