Clutch cable routing (1965 B40F)

[Phil C]

I don't suppose anybody can tell me how long clutch cable part number 41-8564 should be?  Phil

[JulianS]

According to Clark's 46 inches outer inner not given. Last entry in the photo.

[Phil C]

Thanks Julian.
46" outer cable? The one I've been sent is about 61". I emailed them earlier today but am still waiting to hear back.   Phil

[Phil C]

I've discussed this with Mark, the seller, who was very helpful. I'm going to take some measurements and get back to him.
Re the BSA service bulletin info about the change to a shorter cable, it seems amazing to me that the difference between the two ( unless I'm mistaken) is about 14".
Phil

[Phil C]

Morning all, Having received a cable which was far too long, I sent it back and asked for a shorter one, 46" outer with 2 1/2" inner visible. I was confident that those dimensions would be fine, but this morning, when I tried to fit the shorter one, it wouldn't quite go on. Checking the dimensions, I see there is actually about 2 1/4 inner visible, not 2 1/2" as I asked for.  I don't want to be sending it back again. I think I need to shorten the outer by about 1/4" or 3/8" in order to get the nipples engaged. I don't have any soldering gear so would like to shorten the outer without taking a nipple off. Any tips please on the best way to do that without damaging the inner cable? ( it's a NOS cable, wire wound.). I thought about a Dremel cutter, but one slip and the inner would be damaged. Phil
PS Bit of a weather extreme down here in West Devon: no rain for several hours. Motorists are being advised to turn off there windscreen wipers.

[JulianS]

Can you slacken the adjuster in the centre of the clutch pressure plate?

[Phil C]

Didn't think of that, Julian.  Will that do the trick?

[Phil C]

By the way, Julian, you'll see that I modified my first entry of this morning, having realised the dimensions were not quite what I asked for (bit annoying.)

[Phil C]

Okay I've slackened the adjuster screw at the pressure plate, fitted the cable, and reset the adjuster screw. The only possible issue I see now is that the little actuator arm is not in the recommended position. I believe it's supposed to be inclined slightly outwards, and when the slack on the handlebar lever is taken up by the rider then the lever should be at 12 o' click, ie parallel to the casing joint. Mine was pretty much that but is now at about 12 o'clock (parallel), and when the slack is taken up it's inclined slightly inwards. I guess I have three options: 1. Leave it as it is;  2. Remove the  timing side outer case to get at the actuator arm pinion;  3. Shorten the outer clutch cable (which would take me back to my first question this morning.). Any advice please?  Phil

[Phil C]

Or I guess there is an option 4:  buy some soldering kit, take off one of the nipples, shorten the outer cable, and solder the nipple back on again.  Obviously the soldering kit will cost money, but once I've got it...

[Phil C]

Or an option 5: send it back, get a refund, and start afresh.

I'm fancying option 4 at present.

Any thoughts, please?


Phil.

[Pete A10]

As mentioned earlier beware when you desolder the existing nipple - make sure it is brass!
I would prefer to shorten the outer cable in situ. You will need to prise off the end cap on the outer (which you will have to do for reuse even if you desolder) You can then proceed carefully with a junior hacksaw. Cut around the outer so that a section will slide back then cut it lengthways and use pliers to open up the coils and pull it off. Best done with the cable held in vice. With care you will not damage the inner. Good luck whichever way you decide

[Phil C]

Very glad you said that, Pete A10. Tried very carefully  shortening the outer in situ and it worked - no damage to the inner. Ironically shortened it a bit more than I ideally should have, but it will be fine - adjuster at the handlebar is now in about it's middle position, and the actuator arm inclined outwards. Taken the cable off again to oil it. Looking for some plasticene or something similar.  Thanks everyone.  Phil

[Phil C]

Morning all, Having received a cable which was far too long, I sent it back and asked for a shorter one, 46" outer with 2 1/2" inner visible. I was confident that those dimensions would be fine, but this morning, when I tried to fit the shorter one, it wouldn't quite go on. Checking the dimensions, I see there is actually about 2 1/4 inner visible, not 2 1/2" as I asked for.  I don't want to be sending it back again. I think I need to shorten the outer by about 1/4" or 3/8" in order to get the nipples engaged. I don't have any soldering gear so would like to shorten the outer without taking a nipple off. Any tips please on the best way to do that without damaging the inner cable? ( it's a NOS cable, wire wound.). I thought about a Dremel cutter, but one slip and the inner would be damaged. Phil
PS Bit of a weather extreme down here in West Devon: no rain for several hours. Motorists are being advised to turn off there windscreen wipers.

Just to set the record straight: I was unfairly critical of the seller - the amount of inner cable visible was as requested, ie  2 1/2". The problem was my measuring (didn't realise one of the outer cable ferrules was not in place when measuring) - my fault.  Phil

[DAVE BRADY]

Good morning,

For oiling cables there are some nice little oilers that can have an air pump attached to push the oil through.  The plasticine trick does work but I think you need fresh plasticine each time so could work out more expensive in the long run.

Dave.