Clutch cable adjustment

[Phil C]

Good morning everyone, from a very wet and windy West Devon.

The threaded adjuster on the clutch lever on my bike (1965 B40F) appears to be near the end of its adjustment? (please see photo.)  You will see that there is almost none of the threaded bit inside the housing.

So I guess I ought to do something about that?  Seems to me I could either to buy a new inner and outer, or make up a new inner, a bit shorter than the existing one (regarding how much shorter, nearly the length of the adjuster thread), and keep the old outer.  Is that right?

More questions will surely follow!

Phil

[Pete C]

is there no adjustment at the clutch / pushrod end left?

[DAVE BRADY]

Morning,

This could be an indication that the clutch plates are worn.  Worth checking when doing other stuff.  Also check the plain plates as they wear as well.

Dave.

[Phil C]

is there no adjustment at the clutch / pushrod end left?

Well, at the clutch end, I undid the locknut, checked  the screw was position where it met resistance and was then  backed  off about 1/4 turn, and retightened the nut. I didn't do anything at the handlebar end before I did this - should I have slackened off the cable?
Btw, the actuating arm, viewed from above, is just past twelve o' clock.
Phil

[chaz]

if I remember right , Rupert says around 1 oclock so somewhere handy.
if you have access to a lathe you could try turning up a short extension piece to go in between the end of the cable and the adjuster.
I think you can actually buy one , I made one onth Triumph as with different bars and risers  on I couldnt get the right length cables

[Phil C]

Sadly, no lathe.

[Phil C]

Morning,

This could be an indication that the clutch plates are worn.  Worth checking when doing other stuff.  Also check the plain plates as they wear as well.

Dave.

What kind of wear?

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Phil,

Just general wear.  As the friction plates wear they get a thinner.  Also, over a long period of use the plain plates do wear and get a bit thinner.
Thinking about bit more you should still be able to adjust to compensate for this with the adjusters in the clutch and the cable.

Dave.

[Phil C]

So am I back to the options I suggested in the first post? Phil

[JulianS]

When the clutch plates wear the push rod moves towards the lever on the crankcase and the inner of the cable needs to be lengthened to compensate, the opposite to a brake where the cable inner needs to be shortened to compensate for wear.

[JulianS]

A new cable may not solve the problem as many owners will witness that these are often a poor fit.

If you disconnect the clutch cable can you adjust the position of the lever on the crankcase and the adjuster on the pressure plate to get a compromise on the cable?

Sometimes the relationship between the worm and crankcase lever may be out and need adjusting - if you have the Rupert Ratio books he deals with this.

[Phil C]

RR (vol. 1, p.123) does mention setting the clutch rack and pinion to the 1 o' clock position when the rack is at the bottom of its hole. I'm not sure what the bottom of hole thing is about, and suspect it might entail removing the timing-side outer cover? Phil

[JulianS]

The hole is the housing for the rack in the outer timing cover. Yes it does have to come off to check/adjust position.

[Phil C]

Is it not possible  to check it without removing the outer timing cover, by disconnecting the cable and simply turning the little arm until you feel the rack hit the bottom of its hole? Phil

[JulianS]

Dont know. Give it a try and see what you conclude.