(bsa b25 starfire poor starting

[chaz]

I agree about the condenser. Think it is a part that suffers from old age even if the machine hasn't been used. Which means that even NOS condensers should be treated with a shadow of a doubt.

Haven't seen any specifications about the capacitance for the Lucas condensers. Does anyone know?

My old Viva Hb stopped one day, living in the country I cycled 10 mile round trip to the parts shop in the local town, collected a new condensor and fitted. It didnt work, I cycled back again and got another... same result.
after the third visit to the shop the owner gave me the card (remember them, a card with small bags stapled on to it) and told me to try them until I got one to work. cant remember how many but it was good to get the car working again and I didnt have to change it again.
Wassells have Lucas condensors, currently made in Japan so should be reliable

[idie]

Any condenser will do, doesn't matter what vehicle they are meant for. They should all be 2 micro farads.

[AdrianS]

0.22 microfarads is the ideal size. You can buy small solid state ones that are not polarity specific and mount them anywhere - even at the coil. If you do get one of the small solid state or whatever they are called ones make sure it is rated at 600 volts or it won't last.
There are one or two online suppliers of these specifically for bikes. I'll try and look up a name.

[AdrianS]

Google Brightspark or easycap condensers and look at their site

[Ted_Flash]

Back in the '80s we fitted the condensor on a mate's Starfire on the battery tray.  Took a while to work out that the tray was rubber mounted....

[MGILBERT]

Hi guys. Thank you all for your input.All of you comments/recommendations have been noted, and confirms that this is all the work  i have carried out . until now.
With the knowledge that carb/electrics have been refurbish/re checked i have now checked the clutch, which was slipping whilst trying to start the bike.
Adjustments made and  a good  AMAL tickle, the bike is now easy to start 2nd/3RD kick.

So trying not to get to exited, thanks again.and fingers crossed.

bfn

Mike

[Beesy]

Glad you got it sorted. It's rewarding isn't it when you solve a problem like that.

Checking, double checking and perseverance is the key.

[JOHN KAY]

  HI MIKE > I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY RECENT REBUILD OF TRIUMPH TR25W - SAME ENGINE FOUND PILOT JET HOLE WHICH IS MINISCULE ABSOLUTELY CHOCKED SOLID > THE ONLY THING THAT WOULD CLEAR IT WAS A VERY SMALL SEWING NEEDLE WHICH WOULD NOT BEND UNLIKE WIRE > AFTER THAT IT RUN FINE > DONT THINK SONIC CLEANING WOULD HAVE HELPED HERE , IT WAS LIKE GLUE . ACCESS TO JET IS BEHIND MIXTURE SCREW > REGARDS JOHNBOY

[Mike Farmer]

 

Have you tried splashing some petrol into the carb before trying to start it from cold. If it makes a difference guess at fuel. If it doesn't you haven't lost anything. The only other thing that I can think of is an air leak, which will/could weaken the mixture.

Regarding condensers --check your spark if its yellowish==suspect condenser. Check your points--if there's any arcing==suspect condenser

Earthing throughout the system--bad earth weak spark which would possibly be more noticeable at cold.

Best of etc

Mike

[MGILBERT]

Hi guys.
I have decided to replace the clutch plates/springs to stop the slipping whilst starting the bike up. And because of the hard starting issue i believe the kick  start spring is now tired or broken.

When i removed the clutch plates the kick start dropped and will not return. So i think the return spring has had better days. Any tips on fitment,? and reading some articles on bsa , they say drain gearbox oil prior before  taking of  the engine cover, but i thought on the b25 gearbox oil was further in the engine?
So when removing cover, do i expect to see oil draining out.

And secondly can i remove the cover without removing the points assy  .

Sorry for  these questions, but this area is new to me

Cheers/bfn/staysafe

Mike.