A65 Lightning project......

[geraldhattrick75]

Having got around to the rear end (ooh, er missus) and, as usual, am a little confused at what I see. (the bike has had an interesting history and was, of necessity, slightly thrown together in order to get it to me)

Specifically I'm not sure of the profusion of washers (acting as spacers) on the rear shock absorber upper bolts.... Nor the length of the bolts either come to that.

I can see no mention of spacers that should be fitted between the rear mudguard bracket and the shock absorber mount? (see picture of washers). 
Nor whether the rear mudguard loop (the long one that goes under the rear light unit) should be clamped up directly to the shock absorber (same bolt...)   

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

My thoughts are to use a shorter bolt, a spacer of approximately the same width as the washers - and perhaps a thinner spacer on the outside of the shock mounting.....
As always, thanks,
Dave.

[ChrisG]

Hi Dave,
Yes there are two spacers (different lengths as per your washers) part nos. 68-4906 & 68-4909. Re the support rail it bolts up to the outer face of the shock absorber top mounting using the top bolts and just the one washer.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for that Chris it's very helpful.

I've stripped it all off and bent the main stay so that it fits better, and fitted a spacer  on the right hand side, and washers (slightly thicker) (thanks for your help there) and am looking at the best way of centralising the mudguard before attaching it properly.

That stay though, with 6 brackets (and the two conjoining brackets that they bolt to) is a pretty ugly solution to holding a mudguard on to the back of a bike and, having scouted the internet saw much tidier solutions... (just two brackets for bolting to the mudguard).

I am intending to build it as a Lightning Clubman  (replica unless I can prove it's genuine), so I'd like to tidy it up where I can, which means I might have to cut off the 4 unused brackets and respray it.   

[ChrisG]

Before you go cutting the brackets off the support rail, be aware, two of them have small connecting brackets attached which connect with the mudguard stiffener that fits under the mudguard. The other two are used to attach the rear grab rail if you ever want to fit one. I'm not sure you will need those if you fit an LC humped seat but when you get the seat, check that they are not required for that first. These all add to the overall rigidity of the support rail.
Here is a pic to explain
Chris

[Allan G]

As Chris said. They added extra supports to stop the splitting of mudguards. The earlier solution looks neater but with a properly fitted lightning clubman seat (which means making a new front bracket at least) the. The tabs are hardly seen.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for your help folks.
I've stuck with your advice and, after carefully re-measuring the centreline marked all the fitting holes, refitted the mudguard.... centrally- leaving all the brackets alone. (a lot of filing involved...)


I'm now concentrating on fitting the front mudguard which means that I need to obtain the 6 stays which are either rather expensive or not available, so I thought about possibly making some myself.

Two options are 'mild steel' (£10.00)  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILD-STEEL-ERW-ROUND-TUBE-600mm-to-1190-LENGTHS-34-DIFFERENT-SIZES-10mm-76-1mm/152397405225?var=453335904526


or 304 grade stainless steel: (£13.80)    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-ROUND-TUBE-304-GRADE-3-different-sizes-and-lengths-500-to-1195mm/152397327125?var=451679799571

I figure it can't be too hard cutting, flattening and drilling (er, well the stainless might be a tad tough to drill, but otherwise I reckon it ought to be do-able.


But would the material be suitable for the vibration of these machines do you reckon?

Again, thank you for your help.
Regards,
Dave.

[Bess]

Hi Dave,
             Making the stays are tricky, you really need the rounded section at the pressed end for strength. Heres how Wilfred overcome the issue:

http://www.brufnut.de/MONTY/HEADLIGHT/headlight.htm

I use stainless, a good set of cobalt drills are a good investment.

Best wishes...

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for that Bess and for the link- which gives an excellent description of the method/s to be used.

I'm thinking of what I might have around the garage that can be used for the edge shaping.

Stainless tubing and Cobalt drills ordered......

Many thanks,
Dave.

I'll let you know how it goes (he said threateningly...)

As I've said before, there's something good about making items for yourself.

[geraldhattrick75]

Wow! You weren't kidding about the difficulty of flattening the ends Bess.
I've got the stainless tube and nothing in my garage is tough enough..... so far anyway.

So I took a break and sprayed up some bits and pieces: rear number plate holder, side (& centre) stands and head steady. (Incidentally one end of the head steady is open ended- does that render it unusable?)

Regards,
Dave

[Bess]

Hi Dave,
             Yep, not the easiest material to work with. I do get it red hot and form it with a hammer then dress it.

I wouldn't be happy with a open ended steady it would likely move during use, not too expensive to replace or weld up if you have the equipment.

Best wishes...

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks again Bess..... Good advice.... on both queries.....

Regards,
Dave.

[geraldhattrick75]

Well, having seen the mess I've made of the first bracket- which has now been converted to a head steady, I think I'll have to make do with spending money on the real thing.  (I did get the thing glowing cherry red too Bess)

Nothing I have in the garage, especially the vice, is up to the job.

I will have to get a more substantial vice... (eBay here I come)


Next job is making the long brake rod (I've set the rearset linkage correctly now...... after looking at lots of pictures)

Thanks again for all the help....

[geraldhattrick75]

Well I bought a 6 inch vice off eBay yesterday and, within minutes of bolting it to the desk, I starting flattening the tube end...... and the vice broke in half......... (I think all done within 5 minutes of taking it out of the box........) I was tempted to say is this a record, but if it had been a record (vice) I don't think I would have had the same problem...

You get what you pay for I guess.

It's being returned......


More importantly I managed, with help from a neighbour, to get the engine from the work bench to the floor alongside the bike a few hours ago.

A bit of prep work to protect the frame and, again with help, I'll be slotting it into the frame- sometime next week. (he said- hopefully..)


The frame has both wheels in, centre and side stand, and I think I've read somewhere that the engine should be offered in from the left hand side of the frame..... (timing side first).

I'm thinking of removing the rear frome mounting brackets until I've jacked the engine into position- then re-fitting them.

Is that all reasonable?

Thanks for your help.....

Dave.

[Bess]

Hi Dave,
             I have never fitted the engine and added the rear brackets afterwards, I can only see issues if you do. The instructions in the manual advise the rear plates are loosely fitted.

However I once left the chain/sprocket cover off, it was a pig to fit afterwards. I've attached the service sheet if it helps .

Best wishes...

[ChrisG]

Always fit the engine with the brackets attached very floppy. You need to tilt it forward to do this. Also, make sure the sprocket cover is fitted beforehand aswell, all as Bess described.
The other thing to remember is to fit the 5/16" rear stud before attaching the inner timing cover as you cant get it in afterwards but you will have already done that by now.
Re the sprocket cover, it is really necessary to keep a lot of road dirt from getting in there, but you wont see many with it fitted due to not having done it before putting engine in the frame. I've tried all sorts of ways to retro fit one and never succeeded.