A65 Lightning project......

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for that Julian and yes, the brake shoes are 1 5/8".

However, I removed all the shoes and pivots and the problem is still the same- the brake plate is sitting proud of the hub...on the lock ring...

Is it necessary to use some sort of tool for screwing the lock plates down?

[JulianS]

The brake plate centre flange should butt against the bearing inner race.

The locking ring should screw in to be flush with the housing.

Is the bearing fully into the hub?

[geraldhattrick75]

A good point julian, I'll have a look at it/ them.

There's probably a clue in the second photo....

Thanks for that.
Dave

[JulianS]

Looks like the wrong locking ring.

Centre hole not large enough for the brake plate flange to go through and but on the inner vrace of the bearing.

The 2 locking rings are different parts. Look at the one on the other side and compare the centre holes. The one on the brake side has a larger hole.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for that Julian.... I found it out accidentally when I did a bit of swapping around today and eventually got it all to sit correctly....

Except I didn't have a clue as to why, till I read what you just said.....

Thanks.


I now have to confess that I am a complete eejit because, as you may remember in my earlier comment (#131) about the front wheel not sitting central and I then had the wheel spokes adjusted to compensate....... well, now that the wheel is actually fitted correctly, it is once again slightly offset and needs adjusting- but in the opposite direction.

I feel that I will not come out of this build looking too clever...


But hey, Jim (Talisker) said he might learn something from it.......  So- fill yer socks Jim. Learn away.


And thanks everyone for helping me with this thing......

[geraldhattrick75]

I've now fitted (temporarily) the front forks and wheel which- now sits central with the brake disc 'floating' nicely.
I eventually bought some 'Indian' fork shrouds, which look quite nice- but which took a lot of modifying to get them to fit. (Widen the yoke clamps so they slide over the yoke and, more significantly, cut 13/16ths of an  inch off the top.... (it appears that the Indian hectare is incompatible with imperial measurements))

I'll dismantle, tidy and protect the parts before doing the final fork build...


Next on my list was the twin carb head valve guides, which came today.

Initial fittings looked nice and tight till i came to the (left exhaust) one, which practically fell through.......... (possibly the valve introducing itself to the piston...)
(Yes, I know....I should have spotted it earlier....)

So I figure that the head is Kaput in terms of 'affordable repair'.... Unless you good folk can offer any suggestions.....

Looks like I'm sticking with the single carb head..... again.



Tyre to go back on front wheel and I'll do a final build on the front end.......

I'm changing the Dunlop rear tyre for an Avon Road Rider (same as on the front).

The rear brake shoes, which looked new, proved, on closer inspection to have an 'unglued' lining- which came adrift with finger pressure, (see, I do do the occasional inspection...) so i need to get another pair....

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Do not panic.  Over size guides are available.  Not sure where from off the top of my head but google it and see what happens.

Dave.

[ChrisG]

I had to do the same with the, guess what, LH Exhaust guide on my Royal Star. Mine was flopping about like a good 'un.
I had a chat with Chris Williams at Autocycle Engineering in Dudley and he recommended reaming the guide bore in the head parallel with an adjustable reamer as it will have worn slightly conical. He stated that it should be a 0.0035" (three and a half thou) interference fit so when parallel you need to measure the bore and turn an oversize one to that measurement plus 0.0035". He said they could do all this in their workshop so worth trying him first.
Had I not been 180 miles from there I would have got him to do it, but I got a local machine shop to do it instead.
Re oversize valve guides, the A10 guide has a larger OD, is a bit longer and has the same bore as the A65 so easy to make into an oversize A65 to whatever OD suits.
If you live reasonably close to Dudley, I would give Chris a call.

[geraldhattrick75]

Thanks for for the suggestion Dave and Editor, I'll give it a go.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner mind- I've just spent 8 days in Stoke hospital with some sort of subdural haematomal on top my my nogging. (out side the brain by all accounts)....

I'm still talking it a lot-easier, not-withstanding packaging things and sending them off.

I'll let you know how it goes, and thanks for your help,
Dave.

Really......

[ChrisG]

The Lightning can wait Dave. Your health is more important so don't overdo it!
All  the best
Chris

[geraldhattrick75]

A belated thank you for that Chris, It's much appreciated.

Health apart, which is getting better by the way (he said, pushing his luck...) I've got back to the A65 and, despite creating more punctures than a porcupine on heat, have now managed to get two Avon RoadRiders on the wheels- (inner tubes are without patches), and the wheels are back in the frame (centralised too).

I've fitted some chrome fork shrouds after sawing 7/8 of an inch off the top, (possibly to do with the Indian propensity for measuring in hectares  then sub-dividing down to the nearest imperial unit) ,  and have bought a chrome headlamp which i need to drill two holes in (for light switch and ignition switch).

Soon I'll be transferring the fully built engine from the work bench to the floor and thence to the bike. (I've been reading the post on doing that. (very helpful (Not sure if it's one man doable though))....

A few questions if I may:
What size and thread number is the front brake anchor strap lower nut (10315 0541) please?

What amount and viscosity (SAE20 I think) of fork oil.

The electrical system is 12 volt and has what looks to be a selenium rectifier (surprised that it is not a zener diode)- does it need updating do you think?

And, while we are on the updating thing, is it worth fitting a Boyer ignition system?

As always, I hope you don't mind my asking so many questions.....



And thank you for your invaluable help....

Dave.

[Allan G]

Hi Dave, sort I haven't read the previous pages of your thread (there's a lot of catching up to do so apologies if I'm hitting on old ground)

Welcome back and good luck with putting the engine in, if your fairly fit then putting a fully built motor isn't too difficult but if your not then it's a pig. If your lying the motor on the floor and fitting the frame to it then you have it a lot easier.

It's possible that you have fitted the later type fork shrouds, I'm assuming your bike has the drop top yoke? There's quite a difference in the two types and you might want to keep an eye out for some originals. Painted ones come up on eBay occasionally and would chrome nicely. The Indian ones will eventually split and fail.

Points are fine, however these bikes were originally fitted with 4CA points until mid 67 when they found that the 4CA Points and their aggressive points cam was the cause of a lot of engine failures, the 6CA (followed by 8 and 10) were much better. If you have to buy a set of these then you might as well settle on a Pazon or Tri-spark. They are both superior to the Boyer in design.

If the electrical system is 12v unless you have updated the stator, the 3 wire alternator will be wired with two wires paired. You can connect this to any modern combined regulator/rectifier which will be much neater and reliable than having a zener and selenium rectifier.

[ChrisG]

Hi Dave, glad you are back!
The front brake lower nut with be a BS Cycle Thread.
The fork oil volume is 190cc each fork leg (not desperate if a little over) a cheap measuring jug is all I use.
I go for Boyer every time as I don't have any experience with the others but it's cheaper I believe. I personally would avoid Wassell at all costs, because, well it's Wassell and that's enough to put me off.
Hope this helps
Chris

[geraldhattrick75]

Excellent Chris, thanks very much for the information...

It'll be nice to have a front end that has some form of damping (he said hopefully)


And I'll definitely go the Boyer's route for ignition, especially after reading about the damage contact breakers can cause - once they start bouncing......


All in due course... once my piggy bank stops leaking.

Many thanks again,
Dave

[geraldhattrick75]

Not sure how I missed your reply Allan, so please accept my apologies for not responding sooner.

If the electrical system is 12v unless you have updated the stator, the 3 wire alternator will be wired with two wires paired. You can connect this to any modern combined regulator/rectifier which will be much neater and reliable than having a zener and selenium rectifier.

Yes, mine has just two wires coming from the stator. (single phase then for the rectifier to convert to DC and the regulator to maintain at 12 volts?)

Mind the conductors were looking a bit iffy so I re-soldered and Araldited them (I'll keep keep my eye on them)

Re the brake plate nut, I've measured it at 0.426 on my clockwork vernier gauge and thread gauge- which puts it around 7/16 and 20 tpi, does that sound about right?

As for getting the engine in the frame: it's a rolling chassis and SWMBO and I are incredibly old (and I'm still recovering from the 'acute whatsit that they carried out on me recently) so it might be more prudent to wait till my mates are allowed out of 'lock down' then the three of us can alternatively heave, swear, pause and repeat until the engine is in the frame.... facing the right way round...ish.

Thanks again for your help,
Dave.