B series cup and cone swap for bearings.

[DOIVEY]

Has anyone changed out the cup and cones for modern wheel bearings.
I have a B20
If so are there any pitfalls to watch out for.
Where did you get the bearings from.
General how to do it would be nice so i am not reinventing the wheel so to speak.
not started it yet but planning to do it over the winter months.

thanks in advance
D

[Rupert]

Likewise I have a 37 B20, similarly it's in the process of being reconditioned... I've ordered a pair of taper roller wheel bearings from Draganfly as they list them as replacements for the cup and cone set up which are the same as pre war C10. They ain't arrived yet though... so wait and see. My understanding is that taper rollers were fitted to the same hubs used on the larger B series models 37-39?
I'm still on the steep part of the learning curve with this one so happy to learn from anyone who knows better.
R.

[DOIVEY]

Hi Rupert,

Thanks for the info, can send me the dragonfly part no. & a pic when you get them. 

i will have a look, i didn't think of Dragonfly even though i have used them several times for bits on my b20.

Just PM me if you need any help on the rebuild, i had mine down to its component parts and completely rebuilt from a working but rough bike.

Have you got a complete bike?

Cheers

D

[Rupert]

Mine was offered to me last year having been in someone's loft in bits since being a field bike in the '60's. Mostly complete but missing lights, footpegs, tail section of rear mudguard and other odds and ends, as you'd expect. Not too bothered about lights or total originality as I intend to build it for green laning.
I've also acquired a '39 350 ohv engine so hopefully I'll be able to pass milk floats rather than just chase them.
Many thanks for the offer of help, I expect I shall take you up on that...
I found the taper roller bearings on draganfly's site by clicking on the standard cones for the pre war C10, the taper roller alternative came up. Apparently they are an off the shelf item which is then modified. Still waiting to see...
R
Ps one part I need is the clutch lift lever on the gearbox, can anybody help?

[DOIVEY]

Hi Rupert,
my footpegs are made from a length of threaded bar and 20mm black enamelled conduit plus lots of washes and nuts then topped off with some john bull footpeg rubbers.

I'm running a b21 250 OHV engine in mine at the mo as the b20 barrel cracked after relining.  i got a replacement but not got round to rebuilding that engine yet.

I had to change the front sprocket to a from 19 to 21tooth as it was a bit slow topend

Have you got the bruce main smith blue parts book as you will see that b20 thru b26 have some identical parts albeit different part numbers. so when doing a search bear the models in mind that may have the same part fitted.

if you have the brown buff book check out the gearbox and front cog ratios for the gearbox they may need to be changed depending if you want topend speed or acceleration.

I used John Hemmings to retooth my rear sprocket, did a lovely job.

I found the bearings on Dragonfly

if you need to see what the clutch lever looks like i can post a pic or two. will keep eyes peeled at jumbles.  even though it would not be a difficult thing to make a rudimentary version to get you going.

Keep in touch
Speak soon
D

[Rupert]

Hi D, many thanks for the info, I've been thinking/acting along the same lines as you suggest...
Had the rear wheel sprocket rebanded by a chap near Knighton in wales.
Gearbox sprocket will also be treated to new teeth when I've done the sums re top speed to see how many teeth to have, bearing in mind the 21 tooth crank sprocket I've already got, same as yourself.
I have a 5 plate clutch to cope with the vast increase in power. Wow.
Footpegs, I have just acquired the complete set up of the right type as used on rigid B31. May need the stud/peg length altering when eventually offered up.
Rear mudguard tail section replaced with one which looks the right size/shape. It came with the number plate still showing which I looked up with dvla - said it was a Zenith!
Nice that you have a B21 engine, that was one of my options when looking for more power. I was lucky to get the engine I did really. Everything above the cylinder was missing but I have since sourced the missing bits. It has been used for racing of some sort as it had a 350 goldie piston fitted and the timing cover had been modified to take a tacho drive. Also a goldie conrod and the flywheels modified to take the larger big end.
I have the BMS parts book for 1939 the engine and it also shows the cycle parts from 1937 which as you say are either the same for other models or as equivalent parts used on C10 etc. Same parts still seem to have been used to some extent on early post war models. Also got the haycraft book which is fairly useful.
I have a length of 1/2"X1/2" steel bar ready to make a clutch lift lever. Thanks for the offer of pics, what I need to know exactly is the distance between centres of the pivot pin and the adjuster screw, and the size/thread of the adjuster. No rush if at any time you could help with these details I'd be very grateful.
Likewise keep in touch and many thanks for your input.
Rupert.

[DOIVEY]

Hi Rupert,
Thats an interesting engine you got there.

The further from standard they get the nightmare they become in sourcing bits for them sometimes.

I shall take some measurements and get back to you.

D

[DOIVEY]

Hi,

See attached photos

Hope these help

Regards
D

[DOIVEY]

Hi,

See attached photos

Hope these help

Regards
D

[DOIVEY]

Hi,

See attached photos
In the last photo the pivot pin that holds the lever in place is removed from left to right as it seems to me tapered.
Hope these help

Merry Christmas
Regards
D

[Rupert]

Brilliant pics, many thanks for taking the trouble. Need to put a 4 jaw chuck for the lathe on the shopping list!

Still no taper roller wheel bearings from draganfly, latest update is they should be ready in February...
Best regards, Rupert.

[DOIVEY]

I spoke to dragonfly, the chap who does them does a batch per month and probably next batch in feb like you say.

there is no reason why you can't do the lever with a piece of round bar,  plus i did not say that the thread is 26 tpi i think standard cycle thread etc.

have you got the copper pipe from tank to carb?  i made several whilst restoring mine just for practice, let me know if you need one.

have a good one

best regards
D

[Rupert]

Hi, thanks for offer of petrol pipe, not sure whether I shall need the standard item, as the bike is non standard I may fit a concentric as the simplest option. Need to get the basics done first, next make and fit new fork bushes and spindles, then when the wheel bearings eventually arrive get the rims sorted...

Likewise, thanks and seasons greetings.
Rupert.

[DOIVEY]

Hi,

i re-bushed the forks (with off the shelf oilite bushes from the bearing boys five eighth inch outside size think) and made new spindles from en16T steel from ParkerSteel.co.uk

https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Imperial-Plain-Oilite-Bearings/AI081016-Imperial-Plain-Oilite-Bearing-Bush-12-x-58-x-1inch-42654-p

The originals were very pitted at the point where the bushes met hence there was a lot of play so decided to remake them.

the problem i found after re-bushing and re-spindleing was that the actual fork strap castings were oval-ated due to wear from the spindle so next job is that i need to oversize drill out and insert bushes in the fork straps to to reduce the rest of the play.

i was shown my friends Norton which had bronze washers between the straps and the forks (to reduce steel to steel wear)  & so you can judge the tightness of the pinch nuts on the forks.  i found them on eBay but would be very easy to make with a bar of oilite.  will post a couple of pics of my forks soonest etc...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girder-Fork-Knurled-Washers-for-Norton-ES2-16H-18-19-CS1-Big-4-and-others/142985398317?hash=item214a98082d:g:rPIAAOSw989bskVp

i fashioned two top hat pieces of turned steel arrangement to pull in the new bushes into the forks with a length of threaded bar thru the forks  , if i find it i will take a few pics for future reference, if you want them let me know.

i found the fork friction plates on eBay too ( will try to find  the supplier essex/ suffolk way ) this may be them but there are ones that offer a spacer to complement for internal diameter of the spindle.......one size fits all etc.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Vintage-Motorcycle-Girder-Fork-friction-disc-FD085/273442117073?hash=item3faa6b95d1:g:qA8AAOSw0c9bjp1X

Thats it really at the mo....photos to follow (festive celebrations permitting.....)

Merry crimble to all

D

[DOIVEY]

Hi See attached photos of the bush for the forks and the bar for the spindles.