1957 B31 poor brakes.

[Aquarius]

JJ Cables of Banbury (Fir Tree Farm, Warmington, Banbury OX17 1JL Phone: 01295 971170) will probably be able to help.
Dave made a very good set for me from samples (including speedo) but I believe he keeps listings too.

[limeyrob]

Its worth taking time to get the best rear brake cable.  It takes a lot more tension and some poor copies have been known to fail. You can stamp pretty hard on that rear brake!

[Janacek]

Done everything suggested by you good people,filed high spots of the linings but noticed little difference.
The main problem is both brakes feel connected with elastic and both handlebar lever and rear brake pedal have a load of movement to apply the brakes.The front brake lever comes almost to the handlebar before giving any effective braking and rear brake has about six inches of movement before giving any worthwhile braking.
I have replaced both cables,a genuine old stock rear from Vale Onslow and a good quality front.
Still no difference!
To adjust the brakes to get couple of inches movement on both brake controls they both bind badly enough to make the wheels difficult to turn by hand.Both brakes were relined by Saftek of Cleckheaton with a green softer lining on the front and a standard lining on the back.
The front brake is a bit better than the back,but that's not saying a lot!
The only thing I can think could be wrong,is badly worn brake operating cams.I haven't checked them yet
Could this cause the problem I am having with the brakes?

[limeyrob]

Unfortunately I don't think worn cams will make much difference.  It all rather depends on how they are worn but it is worth looking at the position of the lever to the cam and the setting of the adjuster.
One thing to try, which I do on my Land Rover which also has drum brakes, is to do some repeated very hard stops with as much force as I can from about 40-50 mph.  This beds the shoes in before they glaze over.
The mix of green linings on the front and std on the rear is good so you have something to build on.

[Roy]

In my opinion and through experience,get drum skimmed ,have over size lining on shoe then machine shoes while on brake plate to suit the new diameter of drum , choose a lining grade that would suite your riding ,to hard a lining not so good until warm and used hard , softer lining good for normal riding , this is my opinion and no doubt other. May differ ,

[rhyatt]

Have you tried centralising the brake plate.
It can make a difference.
But also, as everything is new, use the bike and take a look at the linings after 50 miles or so , to see what is actually touching

[Roy]

Have you measured the ID of Brake drum ,and OD of brake shoes on brake plate ,
This type of brake is Far from the best that as and Ariel put out , they can be made acceptable, the rear will allways be spongy ,unless a rod brake conversion is made ,
Roy

[Janacek]

Was at my wits end regarding the brakes.Was disapointed that new cables didn't have much effect,but the rear brake is getting better,probably less stretch than the old cable.
The front was awful,the lever coming right back to the handlebar.After a bit of thought I shortened the old outer and inner cable by about an inch.Theoretically this shouldn't have made any difference,as the brake arm has to move the same distance from brakes not binding to on.
The front brake I can now adjust so it's not binding and it comes on after a couple of inches brake lever movement.Perhaps someone cleverer than me can explain why this has improved the brake.
Went for a run this morning and when applying the brakes,I got the distinct impression that the bike was going to stop.
Giving the old girl a handful of throttle I was enjoying the exhaust note but then thought it it seems to be revving rather more than usual.Oh no,the clutch is slipping.
Never rains,but it pours.Spoilt my weekend.

[rhyatt]

As long as neither brake arm is any more than 90 degrees when its brake is on , ideally about 75 or 80 degrees , then , mechanically it has room for bedding in