1957 B31 poor brakes.

[Janacek]

Had the shoes relined and found the braking very poor.Rode around a few times thinking that the new linings would improve and bed in with use,but they showed no signs of improvement.
Took the wheels off to inspect the linings,and found that the front only showed signs of wear on a narrow strip in the middle.The rear showed wear on the outside of the lining,neither brake lining was fully in contact with the drum.
Do I persevere and hope the linings will wear to be fully in contact with the drum,or are the brake drums knackered?
Thanks, Terry.

[limeyrob]

For the rear, take a file and keep filing down the high spots.  The rear will be ok because there's plenty of leverage on the pedal.
If you have the 7" single sided front brake its beyond useless and not worth putting a lot of effort into.  The spokes pull the brake drum out of round and so it has to be machined and having done all this its still useless.  Spend you time looking for an A7/A10 8" single sided brake with the ally plate.  This is a much better brake, has a stiff cast drum and fits the same spindle if you get the right year.  Brake stay fits to the forks with no mods, you don't even have to saw the spigot retainer off.  Since the rims are the same size just try to get a whole wheel.

[Janacek]

For the rear, take a file and keep filing down the high spots.  The rear will be ok because there's plenty of leverage on the pedal.
If you have the 7" single sided front brake its beyond useless and not worth putting a lot of effort into.  The spokes pull the brake drum out of round and so it has to be machined and having done all this its still useless.  Spend you time looking for an A7/A10 8" single sided brake with the ally plate.  This is a much better brake, has a stiff cast drum and fits the same spindle if you get the right year.  Brake stay fits to the forks with no mods, you don't even have to saw the spigot retainer off.  Since the rims are the same size just try to get a whole wheel.

Thanks,I will do that.The drums are the "full width" Ariel type,front and rear are the same.

[limeyrob]

My error!  I had those an an A10, they can be made to work reasonably well as the hubs are stiff.  Just keep filing the high spots and ignore my advice on swapping to the 8" unless all else fails!  They only fitted the Aerial hubs for a couple of years but they are are well made and easy to adjust.

[V500]

And not too good in my experience.
I have a large slow-rotating grindwheel used for sharpening lathe tools etc and I find it makes short work of getting 100% shoe contact.
Two felt tip pen lines drawn on the length of the shoes shows where the shoes aren't contacting.

[Janacek]

My error!  I had those an an A10, they can be made to work reasonably well as the hubs are stiff.  Just keep filing the high spots and ignore my advice on swapping to the 8" unless all else fails!  They only fitted the Aerial hubs for a couple of years but they are are well made and easy to adjust.

Filed the high spots off the linings,but no noticeable improvement.
As both brakes feel as though they are connected with elastic,I am beginning to think the poor braking is due to wrong cables being fitted.There is a lot of travel on both the brake pedal and the front brake lever and  when adjusted to get a reasonable amount of travel,the brakes bind.Both cables look a few inches too long to me.
The brakes were re-lined by Saftek of Cleckheaton and they advertise that they make up Venhill cables.
I need to do some research to find the correct diameter and length of cable specified for the 1957 B31.

[JulianS]

Vale Onslow are selling new old stock rear cables on Ebay for BSA Ariel type hubs.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185173641557?_skw=bsa+rear+brake+cable&itmmeta=01KR95YNJG9JPVQN43F1P1AK4W&hash=item2b1d358955:g:PmMAAOSw6lZhl8Js&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8GfYFPkwiK

Some modern linings can take a long time to bed in and some may just be not very good. Did Safetek say what the new lining material is or what its characteristics are? They should be able to tell you both.

Below is a page from a Romac cable catalogue which gives some cable dimensions. It does not define whether "Approx length" is for the inner or the outer, in my opinion it is the outer.

Any front brake cable sold for a particular machine will be for the original handlebar pattern and original type handlebar lever.

[rhyatt]

Have you tried centralising the back plate.
Slacken off wheel spindle , brake hard on and then relighting spindle..
Might work

[Tigerfeet]

My C15 hopeless front brake has been much improved by binning the brand new cable and making a 'new' one up from old components. I think the cheap cables available from most dealers have an enormous amount of spring in the outer cable, so half the effort and movement of the lever is wasted compressing the outer cable. Venhill is the only brand I will buy in future - I just couldn't find any C15 brake cables listed on their site.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Get the Venhill cables made. They use a heavier outer and inner. This reduces compression of the outer and stretch of the inner. They also have a liner that reduces friction.
make sure that the cable run is as free as possible with no tight curves.

Don't the Ariel brakes have an adjuster like old cars so that the fulcrum is adjusted to give better contact.

Dave.

[limeyrob]

The adjusters may be seized, unscrew them and get the tread working nicely and the plungers free. Get the cam pivot moving easily.  Its all steel running in the ally casting and can get stiff with corrosion.  The adjusters have flats so they lock, they don't need to be stiff.

[Janacek]

Vale Onslow are selling new old stock rear cables on Ebay for BSA Ariel type hubs.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185173641557?_skw=bsa+rear+brake+cable&itmmeta=01KR95YNJG9JPVQN43F1P1AK4W&hash=item2b1d358955:g:PmMAAOSw6lZhl8Js&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8GfYFPkwiK

Some modern linings can take a long time to bed in and some may just be not very good. Did Safetek say what the new lining material is or what its characteristics are? They should be able to tell you both.

Below is a page from a Romac cable catalogue which gives some cable dimensions. It does not define whether "Approx length" is for the inner or the outer, in my opinion it is the outer.

Any front brake cable sold for a particular machine will be for the original handlebar pattern and original type handlebar lever.

Thanks for the info.Looked up cables on Venhill web site and they make cables for just about every bike known to man except BSA! They will make one special if you send the original,but instead I have ordered the old stock BSA one from Vale On slow.

[Janacek]

My C15 hopeless front brake has been much improved by binning the brand new cable and making a 'new' one up from old components. I think the cheap cables available from most dealers have an enormous amount of spring in the outer cable, so half the effort and movement of the lever is wasted compressing the outer cable. Venhill is the only brand I will buy in future - I just couldn't find any C15 brake cables listed on their site.

Just been on Venhill's website and they list cables for a wide range of bikes,but not BSA.
They do a special if you send your old cable,but a bit pricey.I think it said £46+VAT.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Venhill do universal cable kits and I think they do ones for classics so any threaded adjusters will be compatible.  They will need shortening so use the old one for a pattern and solder on a nipple.

Dave.

[neil1964]

Not sure why Venhill don't list any BSA cables or kits?
I've built my own up for my Dow TLS as std ones are too short.
The throttle cable kits have correct fittings but I've bought ss adjusters and springs from Barley corn and specced HD cable and outer from their catalogue for my brakes. Oddly George Prew gets his cables made by Venhill to his spec