C15 standard fork stanchion availability

Started by createscript, 23 Jan, 2026, 11:56

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createscript

On pulling apart my forks I've found that at least one stanchion is badly corroded internally (a C15 thing apparently) and reassembling with it will rip new oil seals apart so I need at least one clean stanchion.

Has anyone else discovered that new fork stanchions (40-5004) for C15 Standard seem to be unavailable, and can't be had for love nor money? There seem to be plenty available for off-road fork sets but not standard.

I've searched the 'Net far and wide and asked around. Plenty of results returned, usually for pairs, but always turn out to be Out of Stock on further investigation. On contacting suppliers, I've had assurances they'll become available but not when, and that I can put in a back order (and pay for it! Sorry, been stung like that before...).

The reality is it seems replacement items just aren't out there right now, unless someone knows otherwise. I assume they'll be remanufactured by Wassell's or someone else eventually but I've had no indication of when that'll be. I'll hang on a couple of months, see if the situation changes as it's not holding the rest of the project up but if the situation continues it will.

The standard stanchion (internal spring, damper rod type) dimensions that I have for 41-5004 are 20-3/8" (517.5mm) overall, 1-1/4" (31.75mm) dia.
Off-road/Competition stanchion (external spring, non-damper rod type) dimensions I have as 21-13/16" (554mm) overall, 1-5/16" (~34mm) dia so these will not fit into the yokes and sliders at all.


If all else fails, I could get the old fork stanchions ground and re-chromed - I think they're not beyond recovery. I suspect this might actually give a more durable solution, while not the cheapest solution by any means.

So does anyone know...
  • A good C15 standard new or usable used stanchion (or pair) for sale anywhere?
  • A good fork reconditioning service they can recommend to re-chrome and grind stanchions. I've heard A.M Philpot in Luton mentioned, any others e.g. in Midlands?

rhyatt

#1
I've always used 600 wet and dry or similar grade to polish up my stanchions , mine are dullish metal anyway from new.
But I've always been able to clean them up sufficiently not to damage a new seal.
Why not try a new seal in its seal holder with a bit of oil on the stanchion , offer onto the forks from the top and slide up and down a few times over the working distance and see what it wipes like.
Try Kidderminster motor cycle 01564 66679
Or chas bike.
A quick web search found a stanchion and bush set for £112 as a complete side I think , but try 600 1st

https://www.britishmcparts.com/suspension/forks-stanchions-oil-seals-oil-springs-ajs-matchless-bsa-mprtpm-triumph/bsa-forks-parts-stanchions-gaitors-bushes-oilseals/bsa-c15-fork-stanchions-and-bushes-40-5004-40-5019/20-uk-product.html?
srsltid=AfmBOoqlc2WUS3vkUQH94o308yteHBBX8_f0F2872MwxfAc8flrUlfzN

These fork tubes were hidden from view , so we're never protected , I've always greased the top section above the bottom yoke , the bush and seal sliding area I've always cleaned up on a rebuild , no deep pitting of the steel tube and the lowest end is immersed in oil inside the lower slider.

Bsa we're famous for guns and guns/rifles have steel tubes and these are your fork tubes.

Rust only comes from previous owners not keeping fork oil changed and rain getting into the fork through split gaiters or plain condensation.

Give em a careful clean before spending cash

createscript

Thanks,
That britishmcparts item isn't actually in stock, another back order item.

The badly pitted right hand stanchion is too far gone for 600 paper - even the damper rod was pitted: at least one PO had clearly let it go too far, and although it came to me full of quite clean oil, it had clearly been neglected at some point in the past. I had to Dremel off the seal holder to get at the internals as it was virtually welded on!

The other stanchion is just about redeemable so 600 paper might do it and the assembly came apart OK. I've used rubbed-in epoxy, smoothed over with 600 to repair mild pitting on Jap bikes and stopped the weepage dead for many miles subsequently, but the right leg is definitely scrap without serious intervention. I'm not entirely confident it can be redeemed with hard chroming, TBH.

Sometimes when an assembly won't come apart, an owner will just walk away and continue the neglect for a later owner to deal with. For me intransigent assemblies like that are a red flag that scream out for proper inspection.

Stubaker58

I've had great service from Phillpots in the past. All done by post. Their charges were pretty reasonable and they are very knowledgeable.
Definitely worth a call.
(I've at Kai got a spare pair of used stanchions, I'll look them out and see what condition they're in).

cdsdorset

You can fill the the pits with araldite or liquid metal and rub back. Unless they are badly worn in one place all you need to do is stop sharp edges cutting the oil seal surface.

createscript

Quote from: Stubaker58 on 24 Jan, 2026, 14:59 I've had great service from Phillpots in the past. All done by post. Their charges were pretty reasonable and they are very knowledgeable.
Definitely worth a call.
(I've at Kai got a spare pair of used stanchions, I'll look them out and see what condition they're in).
If you have something serviceable that would be very interesting. Otherwise I think Philpots may be the way to go, especially as I'll be using headlamp brackets that expose the upper stanchion between the yokes so a shiny hard chrome finish will do well.


rhyatt

#6
So you'll be needing rubber gaiters then , and an alloy front mudguard ?(guards aren't cheap).

Stubaker58

Ok

I've looked out my spare stanchions; they don't look terrible. Complete with bushes and spacers.

If someone can remind me how I'll post some pictures.

PM me if you're interested.

createscript

I've PM'd you Stubaker58. I've not used the PM on this forum and not sure how it appears if you receive a PM. On some forums it comes through direct to your email. Oh well!

createscript

Quote from: rhyatt on 24 Jan, 2026, 15:49 So you'll be needing rubber gaiters then , and an alloy front mudguard ?(guards aren't cheap).
I got some gaiters (maybe Bantam?) and they fit over the seal holders and round the stanchions. Alloy guards, that's another thing: I want to get the 19" front wheel back from CWC before I decide what to fit. Hopefully can pick sthg up at Telford on February 7-8. Problem is that shows are not always the cheapest - stall holders can get a bit too cheeky with pricing (unless, that is, they're trying to redeem a lost weekend, like I found in Newark earlier this month!)

rhyatt

From memory   mine were about £150 for the pair

https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/frame-chassis-mudguards/mudguards.html

Then a length of 1/2" or so steel tube from which to make the front stays and length of 1/2 or 3/4 flat strip for the centre stays , you'll need a 1 litre tin of paint to bend the strip around to make the radius for the stays as well !!