Clutch slip on kicking over

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Mike,

I think the blowtorch is not needed and there could be a risk of damaging the friction material. I reckon the watch cleaning fluid will be enough.  Give it a go and see how it is.

Dave.

[limeyrob]

You can sand the friction plates on a flat surface to get the scorched layer off.  The scorching is carbon and its slippery.

[Jazzman]

The clutch has been reinstalled and thus far no slipping.
The only thing that might happen is residue coming out of the plates under compression. It's unlikely given how I washed them, but anything is possible.

I have to say before I close how grateful I am to the forum and all the help and suggestions, all very much appreciated.

Mike.

[Rupert]

If the plates seem to be in acceptable condition they shouldn't slip if there is enough pressure pushing them together. Therefore if they slip its likely due to insufficient pressure, caused either by mechanical obstruction of some sort - eg the lack of clearance on the centre screw - or insufficient pressure from the springs.
The springs collapse with age and use, therefore fit new ones to remove that variable.
Another mechanical obstruction which should be checked for is that the spring cups are not bottoming in the clutch centre when the pressure plate is fully home.

[Jazzman]

Hi Rupert,
Well here we are a good few days later and the clutch is as solid as rock.
No slipping whatsoever, springs are screwed down to the screw head and first coil showing.
Engine starts first kick every time which is a joy.
Next job is to stop the damn sump cover from dripping. I fitted new gaskets with Hematite but still I get a weeping drip forming on one of nuts, and it's driving me nuts. It only drips two to three times a day, but there should be none.  The rest of the engine is dry, after much effort, so I'll not rest till I have this last one nailed.

On a different point, what's the view with fitting indictors. Do many of you guys fit them?

Regards,
Mike.           

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Indicators a must these days.  We have them fitted on our 4 BSAs.

Dave.

[Jazzman]

Hi Dave,
Thanks for your input.
I kept thinking about how does anyone know what move you're about to make without indicators.
I read that the hand signal for turning right is with your left arm pointing upwards at a right angle with a clenched fist. I find it hard to believe anyone out there would know what move you're implying, certainly not turning right!
I'll get a set of blinkers on order.

All the best,
Mike.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I reckon that most drivers will think you are just waving to someone. Consider that turning right across the on coming traffic, taking your hand off the throttle and not covering the front brake to indicate
is a recipe for disaster. I think that turning right like this is the most dangerous manoeuvre.
The signal that you mention is not in the Highway Code so will not be taught to any road user.
There are three for motorcyclists.
Left arm straight out - intending to move to the left or turn left
Right arm straight out - intending to move to the right or turn right
Right arm move up and down - intending to slowdown or stop.
Not to mention  the life saving 'over the shoulder' look and the use of mirrors.
Both hands are best kept on the handlebars and I fitted 'push to cancel' switches so there is not fumbling for the centre position, especially with winter gloves on.

Dave.

[Jazzman]

I can say from first hand experience, the life saver look over the right shoulder saved my life.
About to turn right from an A road down a lane to my house, I did the look, and got the shock of my life, as a 52 seater coach overtook me with such a rush of wind that near blew me over in the road.
Just one second into the turn and yours truly would not be here typing this!

I've not ridden a motorbike for twenty odd years. Back then it was all Jap stuff ending on a Yam FJ 1100.
Now I have this little all black C15 bought a month ago, getting it ready for my relaunch onto the road.
At 78 I'm going to take it steady at first! 

Btw, was your indicators a complete packaged set?

Cheers,
Mike.     
   

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

No.  I put the parts together myself. I think that Paul Goff does everything you need but it is possible to get some things a bit cheaper elsewhere.  Use LED bulbs to keep within the wattage of the alternator. Fit an LED bright pilot bulb or use a dipped LED headlight for daytime running.  LEd Stop/tail as well.

Dave.

[limeyrob]

I have 2 bikes on the road, a 53 Matchless and a 59 A10. I made the decision to make my own indicators for the A10 and they really make a difference. The Matchless runs battery total loss as its set up as a trials bike and while I ride it on the road locally I avoid busy roads because of the lack of indicators.  I feel much safer in traffic on the A10 because of the indicators. My DIY set up is 6v with LED indicators (home made, soldered to boards) but with 5w incandescent bulbs for the left and right tell tales.  I found these were necessary to get the flasher unit to work.  The tell tales are std Lucas instrument lights fitted into drilled holes in the speedo / tacho mounting plate (its a Road Rocket bitza).  You can get by with one instrument bulb if you wire in a pair of diodes.

[rhyatt]

the oil sump plate weep is a stinker to cure - on my C15 I have reduced it , but all 4 studs go into the open crankcase and I reckon the oil weeps round the threads and out , so try some silicone around the threads to stop this weepage

[Jazzman]

Led indicator set ordered. I decided on separate items as it gave me a better choice or components. 

The leaky sump is a pain, in that it will be the third time I've had it in bits to stop the drips.
I've bought some high grade heat resistant acrylic gasket cement which came recommended to stop leaks...time will tell.
I'm toying with the idea of swapping the long two seater out for a single seat, I just like the look and getting my backside down just a tad lower, not that I'm short in the leg at 6 foot.

Thank you all for your interest and ideas, it makes it more fun to own one these old bangers.    
 
Mike.

[limeyrob]

I feel for you, its become so much more complicated.  When I first rebuilt a BSA clutch (A C11G) there was only SAE 30 to go in the case and the Service Sheets to work to. In those days the clutch friction came as pads that you pressed into each plate, a right job as it was almost impossible to get them level. If you look in an old parts book you will see them still listed.  They would be sold in a paper bag and looked like sweets! Unfortunately they were almost certainly asbestos which is why they worked so well.
The rationale then and the one I stick to even now, is that the oil level should be below the clutch and centrifugal force will for the most part keep the plates reasonably oil free. If they slipped you soaked in petrol and then sanded and gave the springs another half turn.
Good luck!

[EDDIE SIMPSON]

Jazzman,I hope your cure is permanent.
I had annoying kickstart clutch slip with a b31 and I found that the cure was to use the triumph unit 650 non slip oil ( sorry forgotten spec) and more importantly keep the primary oil level to the minimum that oils the chain ( splash )and no more.