B25 rocker arm wear

[MadPete]

Moving on in my B25 restoration - up to my cylinder head and rocker box... I have helicoiled all the 1/4 inch stud holes in the head and am now considering the valves and rocker arms. Valves are easier just to replace. Done...

Rocker arms though are more open to consideration. Has any reader had any rocker arm wear out stories? How far can one go before one really must replace the arm? I accept that when its broke its broke. But how much should I worry about 3 thou wear (approximately) and some pitting? Otherwise all fine and polished? Is it time to change or renew these rocker arms?
I ask because I am finding it difficult to source a new/usable set in UK.

[Roy]

My opinion is sort it now ,either change for a good s/h or send off for stelite and re profile ,Roy

[MadPete]

I must admit I would be inclined to replace if I could find a half decent set. But these items are not so common in good condition. As has been noted - I could recap the ends... deep joy. I have noticed some for £72 +P&P which seems a bit expensive.... Hey ho. It may be the way to go.

[scifi]

I think I would go for a couple of seconds, lightly on a grinding wheel, to clear up the face.

We used to grind and polish the casting marks off those rockers, to lighten them for performance... Not sure it made one iota of difference..!

[MadPete]

I was considering how I might adjust the rocker set I have - by polishing or a little light grinding.

Thankfully I have located a "good enough" used set at a very reasonable price and they look much better. A nice bright polished bearing face and seemingly enough surface hardened material left for sensible use. So they are going in.

Now noticed a small nick on the cylinder head flat facing. Just across the small oil drain hole from the dome. The wrong place to have it as the cylinder ignition pressure probably bleeds into the oil way. Not useful... The "scrape/dent/nick is about 5 thou deep so not sensible to try to close with the soft copper head gasket alone. I have been advised "green hematite" (you can still get it...) and some other similar "metallic" sealer.  Hmmm. If all else fails... I can't skim the head, obviously. So I am wondering about a quick TIG weld and lake some alloy in the offending area to build it up. Then grind flat. Risky as the valve seat is so close but I suppose worth a try.

Unless someone can tell me that it isn't. Then I suppose I am back to some sort of hard filler/hematite

[MadPete]

I got the head built up with weld and then ground flat. A neat job and quick to do. Oil way good, valves seem as tight as before and job seems a guddun. Looks really neat. Lets hope that is all that needs doing.

[Bigsingle]

Moving on in my B25 restoration - up to my cylinder head and rocker box... I have helicoiled all the 1/4 inch stud holes in the head and am now considering the valves and rocker arms. Valves are easier just to replace. Done...

Rocker arms though are more open to consideration. Has any reader had any rocker arm wear out stories? How far can one go before one really must replace the arm? I accept that when its broke its broke. But how much should I worry about 3 thou wear (approximately) and some pitting? Otherwise all fine and polished? Is it time to change or renew these rocker arms?
I ask because I am finding it difficult to source a new/usable set in UK.

The proper way to grind these. On the back end of a valve refacer they have a vertical stand with two tapered cones , rocker is fitted and by stroking the valve refacer back and forth and keeping light pressure on the rocker to follow the stone the face can easily be refaced square to the shaft . They can be stellite welded as suggested .Cheers

[MadPete]

I'll have to have a look at that next time I reseat a valve. Something new every day!